Heat Riser vs No Heat Riser
01-08-2017, 02:30 PM
#22
Team Owner
Heat riser systems have been on cars much longer than emissions stuff. But, as you live in EPAland, one never knows. However, if you open the riser valve and remove the valve from the shaft...then reassemble it, how would they ever know? From the outside it would appear the same and operate the same. It just wouldn't block exhaust flow from going down the pipe. And, it probably wouldn't be cold enough for it to close, anyway.
Last edited by 7T1vette; 01-08-2017 at 02:31 PM.
01-08-2017, 05:38 PM
#23
Racer
Heat riser systems have been on cars much longer than emissions stuff. But, as you live in EPAland, one never knows. However, if you open the riser valve and remove the valve from the shaft...then reassemble it, how would they ever know? From the outside it would appear the same and operate the same. It just wouldn't block exhaust flow from going down the pipe. And, it probably wouldn't be cold enough for it to close, anyway.
01-08-2017, 06:42 PM
#24
Team Owner
I should not experiment like this but I tend to. A normal heat riser tends to work fine if lubricated once a year or so. Years ago GM had a special spray to do that job. Nowadays I guess PB Blaster is the equivalent.
Last edited by Paul L; 01-08-2017 at 07:24 PM.
01-08-2017, 08:08 PM
#25
Safety Car
Without the riser the stock choke takes about twice as long (or more) to fully release so with a divorced choke you need to lengthen the rod (make a new rod) to the carb by almost a half inch to get it to release sooner. If you want to block off the manifold you MUST replace the riser with an open spacer or gutted riser or the exhaust will be blocked on the passenger side. If you need a choke and the manifold is blocked you have to go to an aftermarket divorced electric choke.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; 01-08-2017 at 10:46 PM.
01-09-2017, 01:51 PM
#26
Team Owner
Hi Paul. The spacer has the same triangular flat on one side shape as the end of the exhaust manifold so that the ears on the cast exhaust manifold sit flat up against it (gasket between) and don't break off when tightened down or with heat cycles.
Without the riser the stock choke takes about twice as long (or more) to fully release so with a divorced choke you need to lengthen the rod (make a new rod) to the carb by almost a half inch to get it to release sooner. If you want to block off the manifold you MUST replace the riser with an open spacer or gutted riser or the exhaust will be blocked on the passenger side. If you need a choke and the manifold is blocked you have to go to an aftermarket divorced electric choke.
Without the riser the stock choke takes about twice as long (or more) to fully release so with a divorced choke you need to lengthen the rod (make a new rod) to the carb by almost a half inch to get it to release sooner. If you want to block off the manifold you MUST replace the riser with an open spacer or gutted riser or the exhaust will be blocked on the passenger side. If you need a choke and the manifold is blocked you have to go to an aftermarket divorced electric choke.
Last edited by Paul L; 01-09-2017 at 03:48 PM.
02-25-2017, 09:57 AM
#27
7th Gear
Member Since: Nov 2012
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Question to add to this thread - Will the -`74 spacers work on the 1975? It's also got a 2" manifold output. I have seen certain vendors list this part up through the early `80s, and others not.
Getting ready to order a dual exhaust from CC, so the question is at least timely for me. . .
Getting ready to order a dual exhaust from CC, so the question is at least timely for me. . .
02-25-2017, 10:33 AM
#28
Melting Slicks
Question to add to this thread - Will the -`74 spacers work on the 1975? It's also got a 2" manifold output. I have seen certain vendors list this part up through the early `80s, and others not.
Getting ready to order a dual exhaust from CC, so the question is at least timely for me. . .
Getting ready to order a dual exhaust from CC, so the question is at least timely for me. . .
02-25-2017, 11:42 AM
#29
