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Heat riser systems have been on cars much longer than emissions stuff. But, as you live in EPAland, one never knows. However, if you open the riser valve and remove the valve from the shaft...then reassemble it, how would they ever know? From the outside it would appear the same and operate the same. It just wouldn't block exhaust flow from going down the pipe. And, it probably wouldn't be cold enough for it to close, anyway.
Heat riser systems have been on cars much longer than emissions stuff. But, as you live in EPAland, one never knows. However, if you open the riser valve and remove the valve from the shaft...then reassemble it, how would they ever know? From the outside it would appear the same and operate the same. It just wouldn't block exhaust flow from going down the pipe. And, it probably wouldn't be cold enough for it to close, anyway.
Does this mean that the exhaust crossover in the inlet manifold is not needed anymore?
Does this mean that the exhaust crossover in the inlet manifold is not needed anymore?
People will debate that. Carb warm-up will take longer of course. My whole exhaust system is relatively new but I will try the spacer in April or so. I don't understand why it is so oddly shaped but I am sure someone has an answer to that.
I should not experiment like this but I tend to. A normal heat riser tends to work fine if lubricated once a year or so. Years ago GM had a special spray to do that job. Nowadays I guess PB Blaster is the equivalent.
I don't understand why it is so oddly shaped but I am sure someone has an answer to that.
Hi Paul. The spacer has the same triangular flat on one side shape as the end of the exhaust manifold so that the ears on the cast exhaust manifold sit flat up against it (gasket between) and don't break off when tightened down or with heat cycles.
Without the riser the stock choke takes about twice as long (or more) to fully release so with a divorced choke you need to lengthen the rod (make a new rod) to the carb by almost a half inch to get it to release sooner. If you want to block off the manifold you MUST replace the riser with an open spacer or gutted riser or the exhaust will be blocked on the passenger side. If you need a choke and the manifold is blocked you have to go to an aftermarket divorced electric choke.
Last edited by CanadaGrant; Jan 8, 2017 at 10:46 PM.
Hi Paul. The spacer has the same triangular flat on one side shape as the end of the exhaust manifold so that the ears on the cast exhaust manifold sit flat up against it (gasket between) and don't break off when tightened down or with heat cycles.
Without the riser the stock choke takes about twice as long (or more) to fully release so with a divorced choke you need to lengthen the rod (make a new rod) to the carb by almost a half inch to get it to release sooner. If you want to block off the manifold you MUST replace the riser with an open spacer or gutted riser or the exhaust will be blocked on the passenger side. If you need a choke and the manifold is blocked you have to go to an aftermarket divorced electric choke.
Useful info. Thank you. My car runs very well now and I have a bad habit of fixing things until they are broken....I'll lube the existing heat riser in April with graphite spray and get on with driving.
Question to add to this thread - Will the -`74 spacers work on the 1975? It's also got a 2" manifold output. I have seen certain vendors list this part up through the early `80s, and others not.
Getting ready to order a dual exhaust from CC, so the question is at least timely for me. . .
Question to add to this thread - Will the -`74 spacers work on the 1975? It's also got a 2" manifold output. I have seen certain vendors list this part up through the early `80s, and others not.
Getting ready to order a dual exhaust from CC, so the question is at least timely for me. . .