i would shop around to body shops that straighten frames, get a bunch of quotes and then see where you are. You dont need a corvette specialist, just a frame guy that can read a spec sheet or blue print. You can do a frame off and get the frame straightened or shop around for a frame. There was a rolling frame around here for $7k that was restored, a while back. Lots of options if your birdcage and windshield isnt rotten.Dont panic, get quotes for body on, body off and decide if you can remove the body or not, many people here have done it with just 2x4, straps and jack stands.

 

here ya go

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...is-2500-a.html

Where do you live, theres a guy thats running empty on that thread that can get it to you hopefully

 

It's a sharp looking car! If you didn't pay top dollar for it you may be able to fix it and still be good. If you paid top dollar and would lose $$$$, maybe you can fix it for less than your resale loss would be?

 

keep your head up, I bought what I thought was a good project and bought someone elses problem. I checked all the things they say to check and went ahead and bought the car ('74) . I knew buying it it had problems and anticipated repairing them but it was the un-disclosed problems that crushed me. I am the 4th owner and have found all kinds of jerry rigged,short cut, un-safe Bubba cover up fix's. things that would or could have caused a serious crash or even a death. because of that I now have to and continue to go over every part of this car for fear my life is in jeopardy because of all the hidden crap I found. on more than one occasion I have come close to smashing the project up with a sledge hammer but had a few beers and cooled off for a few days then came back with a plan to fix the items I found and check everything that I come across in the future. Yeah I'm gonna have more into the car than I ever planned but thats the way the ball bounced?
i always wanted a stingray, not a show car or trailer queen, just a good weekend hot rod. I love working on old cars and vintage race cars so as much as it pains me to find more problems I get off on fixing them and in my mind each time I fix something correctly I put the horns (I'm a Dago LOL) to anyone who owned it before me.
hang in there it may not be as bad as you think, you cant change the past "it is ,what it is" so move forward.
just my $0.02
Paul

 

Thanks guys for the feedback and inquiries. I will try to give what additional info I can as well as my current perspective.

First off, I am in over my head. I have always appreciated cars, I've hung out with car enthusiasts and spent long summer nights hanging out in my buddy's shop until the sun came up. But, I don't have the know how to do much diagnosis, let alone repair.

The car sat for four years, mostly because of the arrival of my daughter but partly because I knew nothing about how to get this car road ready.

Thanks to my wife who, in an effort to get me to start enjoying this car, we finally have a sense of what it will take to make this 74 safe for the driver and everyone around it. After getting the estimate to get the car structurally sound and minimally mechanically operational, I think I need to cut my loses and part ways with what will in all likelihood be a never ending project in my hands. Three kids and a job that is currently kicking my butt doesn't leave me with much time and energy to dedicate to the car.

I am thinking that the best course of action is to get as detailed a list as I can of the car's issues and, in all transparency, list it "as is". I will not sell the car under the same pretenses under which I purchased it.

To answer of the questions above:

I paid $7800, plus shipping, a new battery and new gas tank.
The car is located in Southern California, 40 miles north of LA.
I can't seem to locate the pictures I took when I had the car insured. With it at the mechanics I currently can't take new ones.
The right wheel is indeed deeper set into the chassis as well as 1 1/2" towards the rear of the vehicle when compared to the driver side
There are some areas on the right side A frame that are held with some poor welding
The motor is shifted towards the drivers side and is not level
In all likelihood the numbers do not match
The paint is not original but shines up pretty well
Front passenger wheel is narrower than the driver's side
Interior is in good shape. Tan seats, no cracks in the dash. The original radio and plate have been replaced.
AC compressor is missing with wires dangling where it should reside
vacuums for the lights are bit weak
The mechanic called out the work that pieced the right side back together as shoddy, unsafe and "Mickey Mouse"

I'll post pics and more info as available.

Thank you

 

Your plate surely is full/I know the feeling. Decide how much of a loss you are willing to take.....maybe you can buy a decent used frame that would compensate for the lost $$$$ ?

Physically the car looks good.

 

I think it might be difficult to be transparent with the would be buyer and get the full 7800 back, but I think it may be possible about 3500-4500 based on the good stuff the car does offer. There seems to be a lot of value in the car, but I think the would be buyer would need to factor in major cost for frame repair or replacement. The car may be better used as a parts car because it looks like there is a lot of good stuff on the car.

Disclaimer, I am not an expert, just someone who watches what C3s typically sell for.

 

Im going to take the counterpoint. One of the more expensive things to fix on a C3 is the body. Since this car has decent paint and is not matching numbers anyway then I would consider swapping a good frame underneath it. I see good frames on my local CL for $900-1500 regularly. 8 bolts and a few connections later and you could be on a good frame. That's the route I would take.

 

My guess is that you have never pulled one of these bodies off a frame.
Yes it is 8 bolts but most of the time a couple will be really rusted and seized.
That just separates the frame from the body...after disconnecting all the wires, brake lines, transmission connections, steering column, lights, battery cable, etc, etc.

THEN...he has to remove all the existing powertrain, suspension, brakes, etc etc from the original frame and install onto the new frame.
The new frame will need new bushings, mounts, lines, etc, etc.

For someone who got fleeced and has no real mechanical experience you are suggesting a HUGE can of worms. And opportunity to get fleeced even more.

Have it fixed by a frame shop or sell it as a parts car.

In business and real estate, we called this..."the price of the lesson".

Good luck to the op.
Sorry you got fleeced.

Dennis

 

Motor pushed towards the driver side a bit? Normally, the motor sits an inch or more to the passenger side. Not looking so good imho. I'd prob bail and find a straight one. Sorry you got hosed Bro... Not cool! Is the guy that sold it still available?

 

May not be his fault; there could have been multiple "hosings" since this caar was wrecked and band-aided. My '74 was pretty banged up underneath the fifteen paintjobs.

As said before, if you and your buddies are handy, swap the frame. Otherwise, cut your losses.

 

I have got stuff from Wes myself he's a straight shooter. Clear out the garage, get a bunch of beer, and call some friends with tools. It's a forty year old car, not a space shuttle. With help from this forum, you CAN do it. A wasted body/paint is WAY more labor intensive!

 

I realize the motor is shifted, there are some shoddy welds, etc. but you said the right front wheel is a different size than the others, correct? If that's correct, whoever "fixed" it maybe couldn't get the correct wheel so put on the wrong size and that's why it sits in about 1 1/2" more than the others. Try switching a wheel from the other side and see what it looks like. Maybe you can get away with having the frame straightened and pick up the right size wheel. Just my thoughts.
Duane

 

I would pull the wheels and measure the offset of the rims. You put a flat edge across the rear of the rim and measure to the mounting surface. Make sure all are the same.

I agree a good alignment shop or body shop can give you the true cost of a fix.

 

I bought something very close to what you have other than the damage that you really don't know about. My 1973 Coupe was said to be in show car condition and turned out for from it. now A/C comp or hoses, no bushings under the car, weak springs, cut up dash, Chevy 350 truck motor made in Mexico.

I had the car looked at and it was confirmed as a solid car to start. I called the same guy who looked the 1973 over earlier and asked about a 1974 and he told me no at the $7000.00 price.

So here is what I would do at this point if it were my car......Just drive it. As a 1974 Rubber Bumper car it is knew but really nothing collectable (just like my 73) Numbers don't match....In short we both have a pricey plastic bodied 2 door Impala.

Make a list and start buying stuff...Join Elcker's Buyers deal and buy what you need....Bearing, bushings, trans lines, sway bars, springs,all new hoses and while you are at it drop a crate motor in there from ATK, rebuild the trans, add a shift kit a stall converter.....Stay with me....We are just getting started.





Now that ATK 375 HP 350 with big heads needs a big carb and will get about 10 MPG but who cares right.



Mine spend 18 months in the shop having everything that could be unbolted replaced including vacuum lines, head light parts, heater core and motor, springs, all the bushings, shocks, bearing and I still a long way off from getting it done.

Paint alone is $7000, I have a new interior including dash wiring harness...They get hot, brittle and break causing a short and a fire.

Honestly, I have had more fun bringing this old truck back to life to pull my boat.



After a few weeks, new grill and lights and a good buffing.





I am sure I wont make any friends with this post and my opinion but it is your choice just how far your want to go......Once you step over that line it gets xpensive to have it done right.

Just sayin,

Karsten

 

Im confused.....for the car to be this fawked, Id assume there was originally significant body damage. Did someone actually take to time to do ALL that body work and paint on a bent up frame? Thats a LOT of work just to flip a car and make a few hundred bucks.

Are the wheel sizes issues just a different sized tire? (Like a 205 vs a 185 on the same rims?) Some idiot could have just replaced one tire (blowout, flat, etc) with a much cheaper, more common size.

I REALLY think you should take a few pics and post them here.

PS- I feel your pain. I bought my car thinking it was a 72 that had a few 82 parts added. I didnt know **** about Vettes at the time. I own a 72 frame and engine with an ENTIRE 82 body and interior. Somebody wrecked my car and did a body swap.

Take some pics for us. Something isnt adding up.

 

Got the car back from the shop. Snapped some pics. I hope they are clear enough. You can see the stack of shims on the passenger side. The ground down passenger caliper. How much more deepest the passenger wheel is (it is also a narrower wheel). In one image you can see a belt rubbing against a brace. Also, some pics of the interior.





shims...











Belt rubbing



caliper ground down even with washers and plates to give clearance

 

Here's info from the mechanic. He didn't charge me for his time.

-Serpentine belt hitting cross bar for the L/F Upper A Frame
-R/S A-Frame has a lot of shims to try to get the caster and camber proper
-Measured wheel base & R/S is 1 1/2" shorter than L/S
-Engine is cocked & pushed over due to the car being hit really hard on R/F corner
-Crossmember has been re-welded
-R/F spring bucket is bent and shock hits coil spring
-R/F wheel has 2 spacers and washers stacked behind it & also the caliper is ground off because the wheel was hitting it & still does
-Master cylinder is no good
-car backfires pretty bad
- Base of fuel pump is pinched at more than 90 degrees due to the frame damage

 

I would unload it and take a loss. This car could be way more to fix than it is worth. You might be able to recoup some of your money parting it out. It's a lesson learned, painful as that is.

 

I would like to know what you were told by the person that sold it to you. What his name and address is. Just to protect the rest of us from buying anything from him of course.....And have you considered going back to him and see if he will do anything for you on the money end?


Also, what did the ad say about the car? Was it misrepresented in the ad?