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So I have the new body panel(seatbelt mount) and have a tool that was sold to me for the job. So I tried a few to see how they work and didn't find it working all that well????? Has anyone tried this?
Hi B,
I've set many rivets by hand.
I'm not sure what tool you've been sold to use.
I'll picture the one I use. It's similar to what a trim carpenter might use to set finishing nails. The entire tip is slightly concave.
I use a 5 lb. hammer to start setting the rivet and then finish with a ball-peen hammer which gives me more control in getting the mushroom appearance I'm looking for.
The 'bucked' side of the rivet really needs to be held very firmly in place or the rivet just bounces when the hammer strikes the tool.
Regards,
Alan
Hi B,
I'm sorry.
I tried that type without much success. I found the 'set' tool seemed to need have more 'mass' so the weight of the hammer blow was all transferred to the shaft of the rivet.
I also found that the tool used to 'buck' the rivet head needed to be even heavier than the 'setting hammer'.
???
Regards,
Alan
Here are some of the methods that I used. I would recommend a fairly larger and solid buck You may also use a small gun with very low air pressure and off set bit. Oh yeah , practice and get a lot of rivets. Some you can cut so the stems are shorter.
To each is own!
RVZIO
Not perfect GM but you get the idea and not pop rivets or bolts!
Here are some of the methods that I used. I would recommend a fairly larger and solid buck You may also use a small gun with very low air pressure and off set bit. Oh yeah , practice and get a lot of rivets. Some you can cut so the stems are shorter.
To each is own!
RVZIO
Not perfect GM but you get the idea and not pop rivets or bolts!
So I have a questions?????
Did you have different size rivets? (length)
How much of the rivet was sticking out when you were ready to hit it with the gun?
Last edited by buelldude; Feb 18, 2017 at 04:04 AM.
A riveted joint is much stronger than a bolted joint...if it is REALLY riveted. For a true rivet to be set, it needs to be compressed enough to become plastic and FILL the entire space inside the joint. There is really no way to do that job correctly with an assembled car.
You can "attach" the part to the underside of the floor with Pop-rivets; but the assembled part will have much less strength than the factory assembly. And that is a problem when it comes to that feature having enough strength to resist ripping out of the floor during a significant frontal crash (something you hope is never needed...but which you cannot do without if it occurs).
You might be able to use an air-hammer type tool to form the rivets properly....but only if you can support the underside firmly enough to resist the rivet from dislodging from the hole during forming.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 17, 2017 at 05:52 PM.
Did you have different size rivets? (length)
How much of the rivet was sticking out when you were ready to hit it with the guy?
Well that's where the practice comes in. Certain pieces required a different length. So get some 3/8 and 1/2 rivets. You can try like 1/4 sticking past the hole. Then see what type of head it makes.
Did you have different size rivets? (length)
How much of the rivet was sticking out when you were ready to hit it with the guy?
Well that's where the practice comes in. Certain pieces required a different length. So get some 3/8 and 1/2 rivets. You can try like 1/4 sticking past the hole. Then see what type of head it makes. The important thing is to make sure the riveted item is secure.
rivets in the floor
