Hey guys and gals,
I've been a reader and shopper for over a year. Gone to Carlisle 3 of the past 4 years. I've been looking in the 20-25k price range

Im looking to buy a
68-72
pref a 69 LeMans blue 350/350
4 speed
Coupe

AC is strongly preferred
Numbers matching strongly preferred

I came across a matching numbers 72 with AC
Currently red born yellow ps,pb,4speed,pw for $15k
The car has same owner for past 30 years and garage kept
The car needs paint
Has the wrong shifter (aftermarket) bubba factor low
LT-1 tach but numbers indicate a base 200hp car Vin is 1z37k2s...

What should i be looking for what is a driver like this worth as far a price range?
How do i designate close ratio to wide ratio trans?
How do I know rear gear package?
What else should i be looking for inheritance than how solid the birdcage is?
Thanks in advance for the help

 

Hi E,
Welcome!
Thinking of a 68-72 Corvette!!!
VERY nice!
I'll answer a couple of questions.
The transmission is stamped on the flange on the side of the rear case with a code indicating if it's a wide range M20, close range M21, or an M22. There's also information about when the transmission was assembled. In the same location there's also a vin derivative stamp indicating what car the transmission was first installed in.
The rear cover on the rear differential is stamped with code indicating the original ratio. There's also information about the source of the differential and when it was assembled.
This information is often considered to be part of the "numbers matching" hubbub!
Regards,
Alan

The location of the transmission stamps.


The location of the differential stamps.

 

I'd say the $15K is very reasonable, all things considered.

By the letter code on the tranny. A for M20, B for M21, and C for the M22.

If stock, there is a code for the ratio on the bottom of the differential.

The overall condition of the car should also be important. Is the color change a deal breaker for you?

Good luck.

 

Thank you easy Mike. P2m09A looks like wide range 4 speed as I suspected for a base hp model

 

If it will be a 'driver' car, forget the numbers matching cr@p. That just costs you more to start and after putting lots of miles on it you won't get that premium back.

'68s have too many "oddities"...unless you particularly want "oddities".

'70-72 have small flares at the rear of the wheel well openings which will prevent most road-rash on the side of your car. '68 & 69 do not.

'71 and later base-engine cars were engineered to run on low octane fuel (87) and they do that just fine. Performance engines work fine with today's premium fuels.

'68-71 had the light fiber-optic lamp indicators which is still neat!

'68-72 coupes had the removable rear window.

Personally, I would include the '73 car in that same group. It still has the great looking tail and chrome bumpers in the rear. But you can get most of the way to what you want for less money.

P.S. There was no 'actual' difference between '71 and '72 engines (power); they were just rated using different SAE measuring systems.

 

I resemble that remark.

 

Beyond all the number stuff you might also want to take a look at the items of frame, #4 body mounts, stainless trim fitment over the windshields, A pillar areas behind the speakers in front, and on and on.
Post some pictures.
RVZIO

 

I did not know that. Now days when someone asks me about the HP rating of my C3, I change the subject and mention my 460 HP C7. Now I can just say it is the same as the 71 small block, which is 270 HP.

 

I would prefer to say that the 68 has "unique features"!

 

The days of being 'politically correct' are over!!

{I had a '68...loved it; but differences from later C3's were numerous...and odd.} [only 'finger-holds' to close doors from inside; 'blank' space on passenger dash pad; 'cigarette-pack' seat belt buckle holders...but no cup holders ; yada, yada...

 

My kids think I'm an oddity.
I guess I got the right year car
Marshal

 

I recently bought my first C3. I knew I wanted a stick and chrome bumpers. Looked at several that didn’t have those things and passed on a lot of really nice cars because I was sure about what I wanted.

A solid birdcage and frame was what I was looking for. A no-hit body was next. I’ve seen a few threads here from guys that had unpleasant surprises after purchase.

Numbers matching was less important to me – and that can be a topic for debate depending on how detailed you want to get. It was important for me to know exactly what motor I had – also a topic in this forum where people have been surprised after they got it home. I think crate motors are great alternatives for drivers.

I’d say find a color you like and don’t talk yourself into settling for something thinking you'll just paint it. Unless you have the tools & skills a professional paint job is probably the single most expensive thing you will do to that car. I bought one with a paint job I could live with and intend to drive it a few years and work out all the other money-sucking issues these cars inevitably develop.

Don’t know where you live but for me A/C it wasn’t an issue – mine’s a convertible and I live in the northeast. The heater core is good, which does matter. The compressor was already out when I got the car when I got it and I later found the condenser to be a disgusting mouse house. Getting a working 134a system would be prohibitively expensive for me so I am in the process of ‘de-airing’ it. Removing all that made lots of room if I ever want headers, which I might. A/C can add cost and complication.

Mine was under $22K delivered to my front door. I do have a little buyer’s regret that I didn’t get the price lower but after looking at a lot of junk in the same price range I figured that was OK. Those years do tend to run more $$ than the later ones.

Sorry to run on. Just went through this, plus I’m stuck somewhere today for 8 hours and nothing to do…..

Hope this helps. Good luck !

 

"Mine was under $22K delivered to my front door. I do have a little buyer’s regret that I didn’t get the price lower but after looking at a lot of junk in the same price range I figured that was OK. Those years do tend to run more $$ than the later ones."

Key statement. Everyone wants the best deal, but condition is everything. No hit body? 45-49 yr old car, ok good luck with that. Under $20k for a complete no hit no rust chrome bumper car with original equipment? Thats a dream come true, point me to one and I'll buy it too. Rust in my opinion is the number one deal killer. Be very careful inspecting the car. Read the sticky on what to look for when buying your first C3. You can fix mechanical stuff like brakes and leaky power steering, rotted suspension parts etc. But rust is like cancer. It just never ends.
And its been said before and I"ll say it again, buy the very best car you can afford. It takes a whole lot of money to take a worn out neglected no rust car to show level, let alone a rust bucket.

 

It's like panning for gold. You have sift through a lot of stuff before you get to something you want to keep.

 

but its the only c3 that has the ignition switch in the correct location

 

Very nice Z06 I can't remember the last time I saw white on blue.

 

How about White on Green? I know of just one and it looks good too!
I have an '06 Z06, Lemans Blue with Charcoal interior, fully loaded. I'm the original owner and it has less then 12,000 miles.

 

Thank you for all of the responses. I am on reading all the time but never log in nd had forgot my password. I'm going to go look at this car this weekend.

 

Wonder why he has the left rear chocked. No parking brake?

 

I saw that too find out soon. Car was restored 10 years ago. NOM car and im looking for a driver to have fun with and go to carlisle with to hang with my brother and dad. My brother has a 93 polo green zr1 got the celebrity choice award in 15 and dad has a 62 Honduras maroon filie