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The module in my '79 was always kind of wonky. It had to be taped into position just so and even then on occasion it would stop working for a while.
While my interior is apart of electrical changes I decided to fix the problem.
I opened it an very carefully examined both sides of the circuit board. The orange capacitor (arrow pointing to it) was positioned such that one of its leads could short out against a neighboring component.
On the reverse side some of the leads were so long that they too may have shorted against others at times. I clipped them back to the solder.
The module worked immediately upon connection (it never did that before) and continues to work in any position.
I noticed similar issues with mine. While the capacitor wasn't shorting it was close. I also shortened the lead below after replacing the main transistor.
Simple fixes are always great even if they take a bit of time and experience to identify
As a vendor here I greatly respect the fact that you freely provide instructions regarding similar simple fixes (like power window switches). Such is the major reason you receive nearly all of my C3 trade.
Given your tag line along the line of "if you're not the biggest you have to work harder to be the best" I do suggest that you in some way come up with vacuum related components that not only work when received but continue to hold vacuum indefinitely for many years.
Simple fixes are always great even if they take a bit of time and experience to identify
As a vendor here I greatly respect the fact that you freely provide instructions regarding similar simple fixes (like power window switches). Such is the major reason you receive nearly all of my C3 trade.
Given your tag line along the line of "if you're not the biggest you have to work harder to be the best" I do suggest that you in some way come up with vacuum related components that not only work when received but continue to hold vacuum indefinitely for many years.
Mike.. odd you say that.. but we are working on that right now with the same company that makes our 1969-1972 wiper door wiper arm over-ride switch. We have the only switch in the world that actually works..
But we also test every reproduction actuator and relay that we get in before they are shipped too.. That doesn't mean one won't fail after we ship it but we keep a vacuum pump in the receiving area of the building so that when stock arrives they can pump them up and test them.
Thank you for your dedicated patronage... it is greatly appreciated.
And another note: I know orders have been running slowly and we've hired more people in the last month which should solve the issue.
Ernie
Mike.. odd you say that.. but we are working on that right now with the same company that makes our 1969-1972 wiper door wiper arm over-ride switch. We have the only switch in the world that actually works..
But we also test every reproduction actuator and relay that we get in before they are shipped too.. That doesn't mean one won't fail after we ship it but we keep a vacuum pump in the receiving area of the building so that when stock arrives they can pump them up and test them.
Thank you for your dedicated patronage... it is greatly appreciated.
And another note: I know orders have been running slowly and we've hired more people in the last month which should solve the issue.
Ernie
Again I both appreciate and recommend you but will give an example of vacuum component problems:
I bought one of your "modified to work" HVAC mode selector switches to find it leaked terribly upon arrival. I just added some silicon grease to my original that had a tiny leak and it has been perfect ever since. This is when I not only found, believed and followed advice here regarding repair of original vacuum components but began to pass on that excellent and accurate advice!
I've also learned that most of the electrical components (particularly switches) are of such simple, robust and reliable design that unless missing or utterly destroyed repair is surprisingly easy.
that's one thing I still have to sort out on my 79. Somebody has buggered the wiring going to mine, and when I plug in the timer, the interior lights never go out. I wish I had your electrical knowledge!
that's one thing I still have to sort out on my 79. Somebody has buggered the wiring going to mine, and when I plug in the timer, the interior lights never go out. I wish I had your electrical knowledge!
The module may well be defective as I believe they typically such that the light stays on constantly.
You can restore normal (door open = lights on; doors closed = lights off) by installed a jumper wire between two white wires in the connector.
Here is the factory schamatic with the entire system traced out. I forgot I had this on the site. Just right click on it then select copy. Then paste it in to your paint program and save. It will enlarge once you paste it in there. (or go to this link) http://repairs.willcoxcorvette.com/w...-schematic.png
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Mar 8, 2017 at 11:15 AM.
Electronic Courtesy Delay Module
