71 Engine/4 speed removal
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 1
From: Pickering Ontario
71 Engine/4 speed removal
HI Guys, I'm in the process of removing the engine and 4 speed together from 71 LT1. I've unhooked everything to the engine but I've read conflicting info on the trans removal since I'm pulling it one piece (both need to be rebuilt). Do I need to drop the driveshaft or just disconnect it a the rear of the trans? I read I don't need to remove the shifter. If that's true, do I disconnect at the linkage or the arms? Anything else I should watch for? Thanks in advance.
Mark
Mark
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,615
Likes: 150
From: Forth Worth TX
You can disconnect the drive shaft at the transmission. The yoke can be pulled out, but if you tip the transmission back it will leak fluid out.
You can leave the shifter in place and just unbolt the arms where they attach to the transmission.
You can leave the shifter in place and just unbolt the arms where they attach to the transmission.
Last edited by Revi; Mar 7, 2017 at 12:23 PM.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 336
Likes: 69
From: Staten Island New York
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,181
Likes: 9,317
From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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I would tape the crap out of the tailhousing to keep the oil in it or find a piece of pvc and make a plug. That oil will get everywhere. And you dont want to slip in it and fall, taking the motor with you
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 355
Likes: 18
From: Corona Ca
I just reinstalled a 454/4 speed assembled combo into my 71 without a removable cross member.
I used a HF A-frame crane with a chain fall and engine leveler. I removed the hood and rad support and had the car lifted up about 8-10 inches after the power package was over the nose of the car. Worked much better than just the motor and bell housing together and the rad support still installed (first go around years ago before project stall). Only thing I wish I had done was leaving the freshly installed fuel pump off.
I didn't have to contend with the driveshaft or shifter (both were not installed), but it was a pain to install the shifter and brackets AFTER the trans was in the way. Wish I had thought to install the trans mount brackets and shifter before the engine/trans was in place.
No hood, no rad/rad support and a small block w/trans should be OK.
Tom
I used a HF A-frame crane with a chain fall and engine leveler. I removed the hood and rad support and had the car lifted up about 8-10 inches after the power package was over the nose of the car. Worked much better than just the motor and bell housing together and the rad support still installed (first go around years ago before project stall). Only thing I wish I had done was leaving the freshly installed fuel pump off.
I didn't have to contend with the driveshaft or shifter (both were not installed), but it was a pain to install the shifter and brackets AFTER the trans was in the way. Wish I had thought to install the trans mount brackets and shifter before the engine/trans was in place.
No hood, no rad/rad support and a small block w/trans should be OK.
Tom
Pro
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 708
Likes: 150
From: Minnesota
Pull the driveshaft - Mark the driveshaft and the tranny yoke with some white-out or chalk so that you put it back together in the same position/phase. Leave the yoke in the back of the transmission (that will keep the lube in) and just wire or tape it to the tail shaft to keep it from sliding out. On my '70 I remove the rear of the driveshaft 1st (you'll need to pull some bolts and swing the stability plate under the front of the rear end down and out of the way first. You can then push the shaft forward to get it out of the rear input yoke. Might need to pry it forward - large screwdriver between the yoke and U-joint to get it loose. Tape around your U-joint caps with electrical tape to keep the caps and bearings intact.
Unhook the shifter rods from the transmission as stated and leave them hang along the side out of the way. It will all pull out in one pc.
While you have the tranny out, clean it up, block it up on a bench and drain it. Good idea to replace the $6 rear seal at the tailshaft while you have it out - cheap insurance. Pry out the old one and tap in a new one. All the auto parts stores carry them.
Unhook the shifter rods from the transmission as stated and leave them hang along the side out of the way. It will all pull out in one pc.
While you have the tranny out, clean it up, block it up on a bench and drain it. Good idea to replace the $6 rear seal at the tailshaft while you have it out - cheap insurance. Pry out the old one and tap in a new one. All the auto parts stores carry them.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,814
Likes: 414
From: Pittsburgh suburbs Pa.
You can pick up one of those plugs at any transmission shop and re-use it for years on future jobs. I've had one for over thirty years . They fit inside and fit snug to the rear seal . You can tilt the transmission all the way back and it will not leak.
Much easier that way too.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,230
Likes: 4,324
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi Mark,
Looks good!
Do you have something good to put it on?
There was recently a thread describing an engine that tipped over because the 'stand' wasn't as sturdy, or as well balanced as needed.
Regards,
Alan
Looks good!
Do you have something good to put it on?
There was recently a thread describing an engine that tipped over because the 'stand' wasn't as sturdy, or as well balanced as needed.
Regards,
Alan