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Battery Clamp Rivets

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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 03:46 PM
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Default Battery Clamp Rivets


Hi Gang,
Purchased the full hold-down kit from Eckler's since I've got nothing but a bare fiberglass tub under my battery, and I'm tired of it knocking around on stop/starts.
The kit came with all the parts including the underside reinforcements and the rivets to secure them to the fiberglass (2 types of rivets). See the rivets at the bottom of the attached photo.


No instructions on how to fasten the rivets, and they're not normal blind "pop" rivets that I would have expected.
Looks like I'll need some kind of special tool to back-up the head and then peen-over the tip, but there are no clearance holes to work with in the area either.
Any experience on how to secure these?
They appear to be solid aluminum.


Thanks!
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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 04:04 PM
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Hi Bb,
Those rivets are what you describe. They were used at many locations on the underbody.
They are 'set' by peening the shaft into a 'mushroom' shape.
They can be set by hand with a 'buck' on the head side and a small tool like a nail-set and hammer on the shaft side.
The rivets can also be set using a small air tool.
Because of these particular rivets location it takes 2 people to set them.
If originality isn't a concern then you could certainly use typical pop-rivets.
Regards,
Alan




Last edited by Alan 71; Mar 13, 2017 at 04:25 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 04:18 PM
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Default rivets

Everything Alan mentioned unless you are like that stretch guy in the Fantastic 4 movie. Boy would that come in handy when restoring these cars.
RVZIO
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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 06:32 PM
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Using standard Pop-Rivets... I think not!

You have a 30+ pound battery moving along with the car a 70 mph and you do a panic stop. Would 1/8" aluminum Pop-Rivets hold that battery in place? Hmmmm..

I suggest that you use at least 3/16" STEEL Pop-Rivets, which might have a chance of holding.
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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 07:38 PM
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Aren't the factory rivets aluminum? Beside, I don't care if you use pop rivets made out of titanium from the Space Shuttle, the materiel being attached to is fiberglass. You'll rip that glass out before those rivets let loose. Just saying.
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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 09:57 PM
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Default My experience,...

My experience, I had to replace one of the two battery hold down brackets on my 68, and I used small stainless steel screws,washers and nuts about the size of the OEM rivets. Of course, very long arms or a helper is a must, preferably the latter. Hope this might help.
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 11:34 PM
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The metal bracket and the metal support underneath spread the load absorbed by the rivets so that the fiberglass doesn't fracture. But, the total load is transferred through the rivets. If they can't stand the stress, they will stretch to failure...without cracking the fiberglass.

The steel screws/bolts will be as strong as steel rivets...and MUCH stronger than aluminum pop-rivets.

Do whatever you want, it's your car. We're just trying to give you good advice. "You can take a horse to water..." is still a viable adage.
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
The metal bracket and the metal support underneath spread the load absorbed by the rivets so that the fiberglass doesn't fracture. But, the total load is transferred through the rivets. If they can't stand the stress, they will stretch to failure...without cracking the fiberglass.

The steel screws/bolts will be as strong as steel rivets...and MUCH stronger than aluminum pop-rivets.

Do whatever you want, it's your car. We're just trying to give you good advice. "You can take a horse to water..." is still a viable adage.
Weld studs will work they look just like rivets from underneight
And are a 1/4 bolt from above. No one will see it from the battery compartment . Just a thought.
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Old Mar 16, 2017 | 12:08 AM
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Certainly a much better idea than puny [hollow] aluminum Pop-rivets.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Mar 16, 2017 at 12:11 AM.
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