Seized Door Lock!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 720
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From: Michigan
Seized Door Lock!
Morning -
Well, my "lazy, sluggish" driver's door lock mechanism has finally seized up fully.
And as Murphy would have it, it's now locked in the closed position, so I can not open the door to get access to the guts for root causing and fixing.
Fortunately, the window is down, and the T-Tops are off, so I was actually able to drive her yesterday to try out some of the other fixes from this weekend, but had to "Bo Duke" the exit, which is more difficult than it looks for a 55 year old!
So, any tricks to getting the door unlocked while closed? I don't have a jimmy bar, but it appears that there would be decent access to the lock mechanisms from above, through the window glass opening.
I'm sure once I get the door open, I'll be able to pull the door pad off and figure out what the problem is. But I guess I let it go a little too long.
Just prior to this happening, the latch was bouncing off the striker and not latching. I tried several times from the inside to slam it but no luck. Then fiddled with the inside lock **** and tried again. And that allowed the latch to close on the next slam - but, as I said, it was then in the locked condition - and closed!!
Need a little help from the amateur locksmiths out there.
Thanks!
Well, my "lazy, sluggish" driver's door lock mechanism has finally seized up fully.
And as Murphy would have it, it's now locked in the closed position, so I can not open the door to get access to the guts for root causing and fixing.
Fortunately, the window is down, and the T-Tops are off, so I was actually able to drive her yesterday to try out some of the other fixes from this weekend, but had to "Bo Duke" the exit, which is more difficult than it looks for a 55 year old!
So, any tricks to getting the door unlocked while closed? I don't have a jimmy bar, but it appears that there would be decent access to the lock mechanisms from above, through the window glass opening.
I'm sure once I get the door open, I'll be able to pull the door pad off and figure out what the problem is. But I guess I let it go a little too long.
Just prior to this happening, the latch was bouncing off the striker and not latching. I tried several times from the inside to slam it but no luck. Then fiddled with the inside lock **** and tried again. And that allowed the latch to close on the next slam - but, as I said, it was then in the locked condition - and closed!!
Need a little help from the amateur locksmiths out there.
Thanks!
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 4,782
Likes: 223
From: Lebanon Pa
Take a screwdriver and press on the lever pointed by the arrow,it should pop open... I had the same problem last year, and I ended up pulling the locking mechanism out and cleaning them... They get gummed up from years of dirt sticking to the grease... Good luck
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 720
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From: Michigan
Thanks Jeff.
Can you give me a little perspective on what I'm looking at in your photo?
Is that the inside view of the latch on the door's latch face?
Can I access this lever from the open window channel on a closed door?
If so, it looks like it will be easy - so I'm hopeful.
Can't get to it until I get home tonight though.
Can you give me a little perspective on what I'm looking at in your photo?
Is that the inside view of the latch on the door's latch face?
Can I access this lever from the open window channel on a closed door?
If so, it looks like it will be easy - so I'm hopeful.
Can't get to it until I get home tonight though.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 4,782
Likes: 223
From: Lebanon Pa
I had to open my pass. Door while it was locked and closed, with a flash light and a long screwdriver you have to find that lever and push down on it.. The lever at first was hard to see,but once you find it, it is easy... Get your screwdriver on the lever and give the screwdriver a wack with a open hand.... Pull the door interior off, pull the locking mechanism off and clean them, (small hands are a plus lol) I soaked them in gasoline overnight, blew them out with compressed air, then sprayed them with silicone lubricant.. Good luck
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,709
Likes: 269
From: S.E. MI
St. Jude Donor '15
When you get it open check to see if the linkage circled is moving back up after releasing the handle. It is common for the spring on the bottom of the handle to break. It causes the door to not open. You have to take the handle off to fix it.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Michigan
Update with more another question.
I was able to get the door open with Jeff's method above (thanks!).
Took a good afternoon removing the latch and cleaning it all out, cleaning and lubing the rods and getting it all back together. Worked great for about 5-10 slams, and then the outside handle rod came loose and fell to the bottom of the door.
The original rod was a little mangled, and also looked like the lower end was inserted into the wrong hole in the latch lever.
Decided to buy a new rod which appears to be the opposite side to the rod that was there.
Does anyone have a detailed photo or drawing of the correct orientation of the latch rod, especially as it goes around the door lock cylinder and its lever?
The original rod was oriented forward of the lock cylinder, but the lock cylinder would interfere sometimes, and several cycles of the latch handle would tend to unlock the door!!!
This new rod (which is marked "L" on the right of the below picture) seems to have the large curve going the other way related to the upper bend orientation.
So now I'm questioning if the rod needs to go REARWARD of the lock cylinder as it goes from the latch handle down to the latch lever.
Any pictures or detailed install drawings would be helpful.
Thanks!
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
they are bent opposite direction for Left side, or Right Side.
you must be able to rotate the pin on the threaded rod and adjust as needed.
you also need the retaining clips on the locks, to hold them in place.
you must be able to rotate the pin on the threaded rod and adjust as needed.
you also need the retaining clips on the locks, to hold them in place.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 720
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From: Michigan
Thanks 69.
The parts pictured do appear to be symmetrically opposite.
One is the existing part from the Driver's door. The other was ordered from Corvette Central as a Driver's rod, and is marked "L". But they do seem to have opposing shapes.
One of them has to be wrong.
Question remains - does the rod curvature go around the FRONT or the REAR of the lock cylinder when bridging between the upper handle hole and the lower latch lever?
The existing rod was going FORWARD of the lock cylinder, with the upper bent tip fitting into the handle lever hole from front-to-rear. And then the lower adjustable pin was facing rearward into the latch lever, but was in the "inner" of the 2 holes (which seems wrong based on the retainer clip wanting to use that inner hole for its retaining tab, NOT the rod itself).
Problem was, that in this orientation, cycling the outside handle several times, tended to unlock the door, due to the rod interfering with the lock cylinder lever.
Would be great to have some detailed views of how this system goes together in that area.
Also - what clip is used to retain the adjustable pin to the latch lever?
Thanks!
The parts pictured do appear to be symmetrically opposite.
One is the existing part from the Driver's door. The other was ordered from Corvette Central as a Driver's rod, and is marked "L". But they do seem to have opposing shapes.
One of them has to be wrong.
Question remains - does the rod curvature go around the FRONT or the REAR of the lock cylinder when bridging between the upper handle hole and the lower latch lever?
The existing rod was going FORWARD of the lock cylinder, with the upper bent tip fitting into the handle lever hole from front-to-rear. And then the lower adjustable pin was facing rearward into the latch lever, but was in the "inner" of the 2 holes (which seems wrong based on the retainer clip wanting to use that inner hole for its retaining tab, NOT the rod itself).
Problem was, that in this orientation, cycling the outside handle several times, tended to unlock the door, due to the rod interfering with the lock cylinder lever.
Would be great to have some detailed views of how this system goes together in that area.
Also - what clip is used to retain the adjustable pin to the latch lever?
Thanks!
Last edited by Bergerboy; May 1, 2017 at 03:49 PM.
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Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,729
Likes: 267
From: Austin Texas
Corvette of the Year Winner 2017
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 720
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From: Michigan
Thanks again 69!
Anyone have photos (Alan??) of the installed set-up?
The diagram from Willcox is good only to a point.
It doesn't show the rod in its installed position.
And the angled bend shown is similar - but not the same - as the large radius on the actual rods. Which I'm still unsure how it orients relative to the lock cylinder.
Anyone have photos (Alan??) of the installed set-up?
The diagram from Willcox is good only to a point.
It doesn't show the rod in its installed position.
And the angled bend shown is similar - but not the same - as the large radius on the actual rods. Which I'm still unsure how it orients relative to the lock cylinder.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 150
Likes: 42
From: mountains of N.E. Georgia Georgia
Great info here. Pictures and instructions were perfect. I just figured this out about a week ago when my drivers door did the same thing. Still not working right but I'm sure it'll be simple adjustments, cleaning and lubing.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 2,979
Likes: 332
From: Woodinville WA
Wow, I'm glad that hasn't happened to me (yet) *knock on wood*.
I had the lock get stuck on the passenger door of my 79 maybe 6 weeks ago and I was lucky enough that spraying a bit of penetrating oil in some strategic locations ended up loosening mine up. Then repeatedly locking and unlocking it was all that wasw required to get it properly working again.
Adam
I had the lock get stuck on the passenger door of my 79 maybe 6 weeks ago and I was lucky enough that spraying a bit of penetrating oil in some strategic locations ended up loosening mine up. Then repeatedly locking and unlocking it was all that wasw required to get it properly working again.
Adam
Le Mans Master
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From: Myrtle Beach SC
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Michigan
Bumping for any help available on the proper orientation of the outside handle rod.
Does it go forward or rearward of the lock cylinder?
And what direction does the lower adjustable pin engage into the latch lever hole? And into which of the 2 holes?
Photos or drawings please!
Does it go forward or rearward of the lock cylinder?
And what direction does the lower adjustable pin engage into the latch lever hole? And into which of the 2 holes?
Photos or drawings please!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 720
Likes: 205
From: Michigan
Perfect JWard! Thanks so much.
Clearly, the rod is going behind/rearward of the lock cylinder, and then connects as it should, to the outer of the 2 holes in the latch lever.
Mine was rigged up forward of the lock cylinder, which is why pressing on the outside release lever several times caused the rod to hit the lock cylinder lever - an unlock the door!
Trying to install the new (correct side) rod in this incorrect manner is my trouble.
I'll try to install it the way you've got pictured when I get home tonight.
This is the first good view I've seen that details the way to install the rod.
Clearly, the rod is going behind/rearward of the lock cylinder, and then connects as it should, to the outer of the 2 holes in the latch lever.
Mine was rigged up forward of the lock cylinder, which is why pressing on the outside release lever several times caused the rod to hit the lock cylinder lever - an unlock the door!
Trying to install the new (correct side) rod in this incorrect manner is my trouble.
I'll try to install it the way you've got pictured when I get home tonight.
This is the first good view I've seen that details the way to install the rod.