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78, thought the screen on the pickup tube broke off and was bouncing around in the pan. After removing the pan (first time I've done this) there it was....attached right where it should be. Now for my questions, the below pic is the inside of the pan, notice the crack. The area is pressed down. Is this cause for concern? The second picture is one of the screw holes on the matting surface of the pan, as you can see it appear to be raised. I believe I can hammer those areas flat. Many of the holes are like this. I will also repaint the pan as there are many spots which are down to bear metal. Should I attempt to salvage this one or go with a new one. Thanks Bill
As for the crack..I can not say due to not being there looking at it and not having information from you about that plate that is cracked and IF it is still securely spot welded to the inside of the pan????
I myself would not worry about it if the plate is still solidly mounted....but then again. I could braze it up just for the heck of it in under a minute also if I had a concern.
YES...I tap down those raised areas flat that you other photo showed. I use a socket to support the flange when doing so. DO NOT hammer the entire flange flat. The roll beads between the bolt holes are there for a reason for increase metal strength.
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the rim and bolt holes will all hammer flat, you just need a bucking bar that you can get into tight areas, and it doesn't take more than tapping. The crack isn't of concern if it was there when you bought the car, theres no way of knowing how it happened. But if it wasnt there last tiime the motor was apart and now sudddenly is, thats a bt weird. If theres no rubbing from the rotating assembly then your good to go, if there was you would have a huge problem and you would have known about it long before you got worried about the crack. Your plan sounds great, a little weld and forget about and pretty up the pan after you get it straight. Good luck,..
Oil pan damage
