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Anyone have any tips on how to replace broken velcro pieces on a door panel? The pins have broken off of the old ones and the pins are stuck in the panel. I tried to pull them out and push them in. I assume the pins are melted over to hold them in. I thought about breaking the pins off the new ones and gluing them down, but if I ever have to remove the panel again they will probably rip away from the panel. Anyone else run into this? Thanks for any ideas.
My approach would be to drill and tap the remainder of the pins still in the door panel, cut off the pins on the new pieces and drill a clearance hole in the face plate, then screw the new plate down [maybe put some epoxy on the screw threads when installing, too].
A downside of that new retaining piece is that is won't match-up well with the mating piece, if it is of the original design. New/old don't seem to be made to the same design standards.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Apr 11, 2017 at 10:24 AM.
I just replaced several of mine that broke off when removing the door pad (probably for the first time in many years!).
I bought new ones from Corvette Central (~$3 per pair) and just epoxied them to the door pad inner. The ones to the metal were still riveted in fine.
Thought I'd need to heat them up to get them to engage, but once I got the pad lined up and the top screws in, a couple of hits with a mallet at each Velcro, and they engaged pretty well without the heat (even the mis-match of the new to the old parts).
Epoxy should hold well if done right. And if next removal is done carefully, with the proper tool applied at each Velcro pad, they should separate properly.
Last edited by Bergerboy; Apr 11, 2017 at 03:43 PM.
Interestingly, I see a March 14th, 1968 panel had the later style door pulls.
I'd glue new 1/2 as suggested to rear of panel and use the newer corresponding mating half on the door frame to attach.
The originals are different.
Marshal
Thank you all for the replies. I didn't think to drill them out. I'll do that and then fill the holes with epoxy and push them in. As far as tapping, There doesn't seem to be anything to tap into. It looks like a combo of foam and cardboard. As far as compatibility, I did stick the new pieces to the old pieces still riveted to the door and they go together with minimal effort. Other then the color they look the same. I got them from paragon, maybe theirs are more exact?
The March date, Would that be considered a late 68? the 69's probably started showing up in May/June. I have read elsewhere on the forum with multiple complaints/problems with the early 68's.
The idea of 'drilling and tapping' was to do so into the post remnants of the old pads. They are already imbedded into the body of the door panel. But, drilling the posts completely out and using epoxy to attach the new ones would work, also.
They are magnets that will glue to your existing original panel and adhere to the steel in the door. The Velcro mounting system adhering powers has always been iffy (when I removed mine, they were being held together with an adhesive something like weatherstrip cement), and these do hold the panel in place.
They are magnets that will glue to your existing original panel and adhere to the steel in the door. The Velcro mounting system adhering powers has always been iffy (when I removed mine, they were being held together with an adhesive something like weatherstrip cement), and these do hold the panel in place.
I'm not. I drilled the pins out and epoxied the new ones in place. Re-did all of the loose staples and put it back together. It turned out to be a good repair.
My 27 March 1968 coupe did not have the second door pull. That door pull came from 67-68 Camaro doors. I guess the "intelligent" American public could not find the "hidden" 68 original door handle. I know that I have had new passengers stumped where it was.With the window down, I just grab the top of the door to close it. 68 coupe owner for almost 45 years now. Lou.
My 27 March 1968 coupe did not have the second door pull. That door pull came from 67-68 Camaro doors. I guess the "intelligent" American public could not find the "hidden" 68 original door handle. I know that I have had new passengers stumped where it was.With the window down, I just grab the top of the door to close it. 68 coupe owner for almost 45 years now. Lou.
Learn something new everyday. Did not know that. My Dad bought the car in '71. Been in the family for 45 or so years. I'll get some pics here in the next day or so and post in the "68 roll call thread" My Dad's name is Lou as well
I just replaced several of mine that broke off when removing the door pad (probably for the first time in many years!).
Epoxy should hold well if done right. And if next removal is done carefully, with the proper tool applied at each Velcro pad, they should separate properly.
I used 2part JB Weld epoxy to attach them to the door pad inner. Let it cure overnight and then installed them.
The new patches seemed to grip to the old ones on the metal OK, but they DO take a good whack with the heel of your hand or a rubber mallet to get them to engage fully.
I was also able to remove the door pad about 2 weeks later to install the proper lock rod that arrived, and the Velcro was able to be separated from itself without the glue breaking loose (I was careful to use a trim removal tool, prying at each Velcro location).
Good Luck!
Last edited by Bergerboy; May 9, 2017 at 06:43 AM.
I used 2part JB Weld epoxy to attach them to the door pad inner. Let it cure overnight and then installed them.
The new patches seemed to grip to the old ones on the metal OK, but they DO take a good whack with the heel of your hand or a rubber mallet to get them to engage fully.
I was also able to remove the door pad about 2 weeks later to install the proper lock rod that arrived, and the Velcro was able to be separated from itself without the glue breaking loose (I was careful to use a trim removal tool, prying at each Velcro location).
Good Luck!
I'm thinking of using it for my t-top liners, therefore my question. I've tried glue but the metal stands and velcro do not want to stick to the liner board...the glue recommended failed.
I'm thinking of using it for my t-top liners, therefore my question. I've tried glue but the metal stands and velcro do not want to stick to the liner board...the glue recommended failed.
The paper liner board flakes easily and your glue will only 'grab' the very top layer. When there is any stress applied, the top layer will simply separate from the rest.
Suggest that you use a thin varnish and thoroughly saturate the area. After it cures the area will hold together much better and your adhesive will hold much better.
P.S. I used the white gorilla glue that comes in a caulking gun cartridge. It dries fairly quickly, the bond seems strong, and it allows time for repositioning. Used this to cover my home made fiberboard console side panels with vinyl also - allowed me to wrap vinyl around the edges.)
door panel velcro.
