Hard top for the 69
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Are you using the butyl tape or urethane to install the back glass???
Getting the molding clips and molding back on...I have been there and that is one serious PARTY.
You defiantly got that finish looking quite SLICK!
I love/hate working on the hard tops. I love it when I get them looking like they have been dipped in baby oil...but I HATE it when I have to flip it over so I can install the trim moldings and weatherstrips, etc and get them correct and not have any issues in the slick finish I just got to look so good. I generally...for whatever it is worth...use my infra red heater and really cure the clear coat really well before I flip it onto something that is padded really well and will not leave an impression...such as a denim fabric would leave if left upside down on it for too long.
I have support stands like what you have...but once that back glass is in...that support stand does not allow it to sit on it very well...or at least I have had very little luck gettign it positioned so I do not fear that it will slide off and hit the ground. Hence...that love/hate thing.
DUB
Getting the molding clips and molding back on...I have been there and that is one serious PARTY.
You defiantly got that finish looking quite SLICK!
I love/hate working on the hard tops. I love it when I get them looking like they have been dipped in baby oil...but I HATE it when I have to flip it over so I can install the trim moldings and weatherstrips, etc and get them correct and not have any issues in the slick finish I just got to look so good. I generally...for whatever it is worth...use my infra red heater and really cure the clear coat really well before I flip it onto something that is padded really well and will not leave an impression...such as a denim fabric would leave if left upside down on it for too long.
I have support stands like what you have...but once that back glass is in...that support stand does not allow it to sit on it very well...or at least I have had very little luck gettign it positioned so I do not fear that it will slide off and hit the ground. Hence...that love/hate thing.
DUB
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 261
From: Blue Bell PA
2018 C3 of Year Finalist
[QUOTE=DUB;1594565036]Are you using the butyl tape or urethane to install the back glass???
Getting the molding clips and molding back on...I have been there and that is one serious PARTY.
You defiantly got that finish looking quite SLICK!
I love/hate working on the hard tops. I love it when I get them looking like they have been dipped in baby oil...but I HATE it when I have to flip it over so I can install the trim moldings and weatherstrips, etc and get them correct and not have any issues in the slick finish I just got to look so good. I generally...for whatever it is worth...use my infra red heater and really cure the clear coat really well before I flip it onto something that is padded really well and will not leave an
impression...such as a denim fabric would leave if left upside down on it for too long.
I have support stands like what you have...but once that back glass is in...that support stand does not allow it to sit on it very well...or at least I have had very little luck gettign it positioned so I do not fear that it will slide off and hit the ground. Hence...that love/hate thing.
Hi Dub,nice hearing from you again,I think we are using urethane
The thickness may be questionable 1/4 or 5/16 I think,the clips are new
I'll let you know as things go along here,I found those coupling pieces
For the trim,I made a cart for the top to sit in so we will take it off the
Trusses after the glass is in and put it in the cart to put the moldings
Back on ,I think! Plus the headliner is a little curled up.it may get a
Couple of flat head screws around the center latch. We'll see. Do you remember the turn signal switch problem I had turns out someone
Put the wrong switch in the car I finally bought from LL for a tilt wheel and
It was smaller and it now cancels fine . Thanks again
Getting the molding clips and molding back on...I have been there and that is one serious PARTY.
You defiantly got that finish looking quite SLICK!
I love/hate working on the hard tops. I love it when I get them looking like they have been dipped in baby oil...but I HATE it when I have to flip it over so I can install the trim moldings and weatherstrips, etc and get them correct and not have any issues in the slick finish I just got to look so good. I generally...for whatever it is worth...use my infra red heater and really cure the clear coat really well before I flip it onto something that is padded really well and will not leave an
impression...such as a denim fabric would leave if left upside down on it for too long.
I have support stands like what you have...but once that back glass is in...that support stand does not allow it to sit on it very well...or at least I have had very little luck gettign it positioned so I do not fear that it will slide off and hit the ground. Hence...that love/hate thing.
Hi Dub,nice hearing from you again,I think we are using urethane
The thickness may be questionable 1/4 or 5/16 I think,the clips are new
I'll let you know as things go along here,I found those coupling pieces
For the trim,I made a cart for the top to sit in so we will take it off the
Trusses after the glass is in and put it in the cart to put the moldings
Back on ,I think! Plus the headliner is a little curled up.it may get a
Couple of flat head screws around the center latch. We'll see. Do you remember the turn signal switch problem I had turns out someone
Put the wrong switch in the car I finally bought from LL for a tilt wheel and
It was smaller and it now cancels fine . Thanks again
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 261
From: Blue Bell PA
2018 C3 of Year Finalist
Racer
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 336
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From: Staten Island New York
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 488
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From: Vancouver British Columbia
WOW,
Thats all I can say! Now I want mine painted instead of vinyl!
I was having the same issue wrestling this thing while it is upside down. They are so light they slide all over the place as you work to put the trim on. Just don't scratch it!!
Thats all I can say! Now I want mine painted instead of vinyl!
I was having the same issue wrestling this thing while it is upside down. They are so light they slide all over the place as you work to put the trim on. Just don't scratch it!!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 261
From: Blue Bell PA
2018 C3 of Year Finalist
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
GLAD TO READ that your turn signal switch is now all good to go.
Not trying to tell you how to do it...but if you are using the urethane in a tube...if I may suggest....I would make sure I used the correct adhesion promoter and primers that are needed to make sure the urethane will do its job...and I would use SLOW cure urethane also....so you have the time to get the moldings on around the back glass.
TAKE THIS FOR WHAT IT IS WORTH TO YOU:
*TECHNICALLY* When using urethane to hold in windshields and any others glass that is actually a part of the vehicles STRUCTURE...( which in this case) a hard top back glass is 'questionable'. It is recommenced that the surface that you plan on applying the urethane NOT be painted and it should be either lightly epoxy primed or left bare. And then the correct primer is applied to that pinchweld so the urethane can bond to it as designed. The reason is SHEAR. Having layers of primer, paint and clear on the pinchweld..and then a urethane applied to it..it has been found that in an accident...the paint, primer and clear can shear from each other can cause the glass to come out. Like I wrote...this back glass is questionable if that needs to be observed....but I thought you might want to know.
I do know the vertical back glass in a 1973 to 1977 is installed with butyl tape...because I swear I read it and have seen it in the manual. Not that this matters also.
DUB
Not trying to tell you how to do it...but if you are using the urethane in a tube...if I may suggest....I would make sure I used the correct adhesion promoter and primers that are needed to make sure the urethane will do its job...and I would use SLOW cure urethane also....so you have the time to get the moldings on around the back glass.
TAKE THIS FOR WHAT IT IS WORTH TO YOU:
*TECHNICALLY* When using urethane to hold in windshields and any others glass that is actually a part of the vehicles STRUCTURE...( which in this case) a hard top back glass is 'questionable'. It is recommenced that the surface that you plan on applying the urethane NOT be painted and it should be either lightly epoxy primed or left bare. And then the correct primer is applied to that pinchweld so the urethane can bond to it as designed. The reason is SHEAR. Having layers of primer, paint and clear on the pinchweld..and then a urethane applied to it..it has been found that in an accident...the paint, primer and clear can shear from each other can cause the glass to come out. Like I wrote...this back glass is questionable if that needs to be observed....but I thought you might want to know.
I do know the vertical back glass in a 1973 to 1977 is installed with butyl tape...because I swear I read it and have seen it in the manual. Not that this matters also.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; Apr 20, 2017 at 06:07 PM.
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