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Can anyone tell me what size the bolt is that holds these to the block....I know one end goes under the motor mount bolt, the other hole looks to be right below the head.
I picked these up for $16 because they were a little rusty....I cleaned them up with some aluminum foil and Prep & Etch.
Alan...I'm missing the spark plug shields as well.....One of these days I find a good enough deal to buy and put those back on to. Thank you for the pic....
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Have you run the wires? the front 2 go in between the motor and the motor mount. Pain In The @$$. fi the motor is still inthe car. Mark all your wires at the plug and the rotor ahead of time so you can get them installed right the first time as well.
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; May 4, 2017 at 10:07 PM.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
good choice, I put mine in with the exhaust out so it wasn't like stepping on Legos to get at it, but I tried to lift the motor and remove the motor mounts just from the motor. I ended up pulling the horizontal bolt just to get the mounts to line up to replace the bolts.No good details in this pic but I can get some tomorrow if you like
Hi,
Some people find it easier to run the 4 forward wires by starting at the spark plug... which allows you to run the small distributor cap boot through the engine mount rather than the bulkier spark plug boot.
Regards,
Alan
Have you run the wires? the front 2 go in between the motor and the motor mount. Pain In The @$$. fi the motor is still inthe car. Mark all your wires at the plug and the rotor ahead of time so you can get them installed right the first time as well.
1. Yes, the wires for 2/4 and 1/3 go through the motor mount. The TRICK here is to run the wires through the mounts BACKWARDS (HEI), the boots on the distributor cap are smaller than the boots on the plug end.
2. Ensure that they are not crossed, because you can't un-cross them.
3. Lube up the motor mount and boots with SILICONE (liquid) and the slip in with a little 'poking'
4. Over engine/under engine/over engine/under engine...rinse and repeat 50 times!
I see someone has said you must remove the starter...While I can't definitively say that is untrue as far as big-blocks go...it IS UNTRUE for small blocks....I'm not saying its easy....I bled a bucket...but I did not have to remove the starter.
I did on the 82 have to remove the temp send unit and shroud.
The 69 350/350 was a lot easier!
Like I said, next time...I'm going to get shielded wires and run them where I want. ABSOLUTELY HUGE @$$ Pain.
We have to remember that the factory did this monumental task while the engine was not encapsulated by the body....in that case it's a 15 minute job!
I agree with not having to remove the starter on a small block. As others have said start the front two on each side at the spark plugs. I removed the distributor end boot of the new wire, cut off the spark plug boot off of the old wire and taped the new wire to the old. I pulled it through the motor mount that way. It really wasn't that bad.
I agree with not having to remove the starter on a small block. As others have said start the front two on each side at the spark plugs. I removed the distributor end boot of the new wire, cut off the spark plug boot off of ythe old wire and taped the new wire to the old. I pulled it through the motor mount that way. It really wasn't that bad.
Ya'll must have magical powers if you can get the shield on without removing the starter...Maybe if the headers were off you could slide it in from the top but otherwise I see no way.
My wires are already ran thru the mounts so that part of the job won't be an issue.
Ya'll must have magical powers if you can get the shield on without removing the starter...Maybe if the headers were off you could slide it in from the top but otherwise I see no way.
My wires are already ran thru the mounts so that part of the job won't be an issue.
Brian
Brian,
I really don't recall the starter being that big of an issue, but I'm not doubting you. I'll try to crawl under there this weekend to see if I can remember how I did it
Brian,
I really don't recall the starter being that big of an issue, but I'm not doubting you. I'll try to crawl under there this weekend to see if I can remember how I did it
Wiggle-wiggle-wiggle! Lay the wires inside the trough and wiggle it into place.
Wiggle-wiggle-wiggle! Lay the wires inside the trough and wiggle it into place.
Zora had a headache that day!
I think that's exactly right. Seems like I loosened the shield and then I taped the new wire to the old one like I decribed earlier and fished it through. It couldn't have been too tough if I was able to figure it out.
Hi,
This indentation is to provide clearance for the starter support bracket.
IF you remove the forward support bracket and the solenoid heat shield might that make it possible?
Regards,
Alan
Funny this thread was started as I just spent about 9 hours changing the wires and plugs on my 1981. Here are some take-always, the only rational way to thread the wires through the motor mounts is to take the boot off the spark plug wire, then reattach it after you thread it through the motor mount. I'm a small guy, so I was able to reach into the "abyss" and hand start some of the screws for the shields, but, by far, the shields presented the most difficulty and cussin. I found out that taking the starter off is a must, and I took the Left front tire off as well to access the two forward plugs on the passenger side. This is not an easy job! If I knew what a hassle this was I probably would have let a pro handle it. I did attach all shields, and ran the wires through those rubber and plastic looms...whoever owned my car previously skipped those steps, so now it's correct
Lower "V" ignition shield.....?
