Wiper Door Vacuum Switch
#21
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Your just testing the switch only, so pull the middle hose, attach your vacuum pump to this middle plug and pump up about 20 lbs of vacuum.. Then watch the switch and see if it leaks down.
Willcox
#22
wiper door (confused)
Once the door is open and the wiper arms are sweeping away from the switch... pause the arms from inside the car on the cut off over-ride switch.. Then shut the car off..
Your just testing the switch only, so pull the middle hose, attach your vacuum pump to this middle plug and pump up about 20 lbs of vacuum.. Then watch the switch and see if it leaks down.
Willcox
Your just testing the switch only, so pull the middle hose, attach your vacuum pump to this middle plug and pump up about 20 lbs of vacuum.. Then watch the switch and see if it leaks down.
Willcox
#24
wiper door (confused)
Amen! I feel I deserve it since I've lost sleep and been screwing with this problem for about 2 months trying to figure out how it worked, thanks again, learned a lot. I done a body off on this car back in 1984 and its been setting upon blocks since, just had to finish and this was upsetting me to no end, its now ready to come out of the shop.
#27
Pro
Thread Starter
So - follow-up questions:
I've got a new 'good" switch from Willcox - appears to hold vacuum when tested, so I'm going to go ahead and install it.
Based on Alan's photo's of the switch alignment to the parked wiper trans bracket, it appears that there is a nice flush/square contact between the two. Mine is tending to hit the switch more of angle.
The best contact I can achieve, is if I reverse the order of the Driver and passenger arms, allowing the passenger arm to park first, under the driver arm. This gets the passenger trans bracket as close to 0 degrees and flush to the switch face as possible.
Only trouble is, this then causes the blades to interfere with eachother at about mid-sweep, even with adjusting them as much as possible at the center adjustment slides (at the motor shaft interface).
What is the proper over/under of the wiper arms? Driver over Passenger? Or under?
The park position rest bracket for the blade (at the base of the glass) is on the passenger side only, so it would seem that the passenger arm wants to park first.
I've got a new 'good" switch from Willcox - appears to hold vacuum when tested, so I'm going to go ahead and install it.
Based on Alan's photo's of the switch alignment to the parked wiper trans bracket, it appears that there is a nice flush/square contact between the two. Mine is tending to hit the switch more of angle.
The best contact I can achieve, is if I reverse the order of the Driver and passenger arms, allowing the passenger arm to park first, under the driver arm. This gets the passenger trans bracket as close to 0 degrees and flush to the switch face as possible.
Only trouble is, this then causes the blades to interfere with eachother at about mid-sweep, even with adjusting them as much as possible at the center adjustment slides (at the motor shaft interface).
What is the proper over/under of the wiper arms? Driver over Passenger? Or under?
The park position rest bracket for the blade (at the base of the glass) is on the passenger side only, so it would seem that the passenger arm wants to park first.
#28
Burning Brakes
When I install wiper arm switches I almost always have to adjust the mount bracket that it attaches to. Typically it favors the "starboard" side of the car. I simply use a pair of needle nose vice grips. Use the full length of the jaws and grip the bracket midway to "nudge" it into the correct position relative to the top of the plunger. It normally doesn't take much persuasion.
I wouldn't mess with the wiper arms at all.
I wouldn't mess with the wiper arms at all.
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
Update:
I've got everything working correctly - Yay!
Remaining question relates to the routing of the 3 hoses coming from the vacuum valve.
Alan's photos of his '71 looks like the hoses all take a 90 degree turn forward and go directly through the plenum wall to the engine compartment. My hole/grommet on my '69 is more inboard than that, so I'm not sure how to best route the hoses to go across the ~6-8" to get to my pass-through hole without getting tangled in the transmission.
Also, What is the best routing for the 3rd "open" hose which goes nowhere? Can this hose stay in the plenum and just get routed down the outboard drain trough? Or does it need to also go through to the engine compartment, and then where?
I've got everything working correctly - Yay!
Remaining question relates to the routing of the 3 hoses coming from the vacuum valve.
Alan's photos of his '71 looks like the hoses all take a 90 degree turn forward and go directly through the plenum wall to the engine compartment. My hole/grommet on my '69 is more inboard than that, so I'm not sure how to best route the hoses to go across the ~6-8" to get to my pass-through hole without getting tangled in the transmission.
Also, What is the best routing for the 3rd "open" hose which goes nowhere? Can this hose stay in the plenum and just get routed down the outboard drain trough? Or does it need to also go through to the engine compartment, and then where?
#30
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
#31
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks (as usual) Alan.
I would think the vent hose would at least not want to just sit loosely in the trough. Might end up getting water in it, etc.
I'll check the AIM for the proper routing of all 3 within the plenum. Not sure if it clips up to the hanger that the alarm switch wires hang from.
Now that all this is done, I'm moving ahead to try to get the headlight washers working. I bought a new diverter valve to split the headlights from the windshield washers, but it doesn't seem to be operating correctly yet.
Does anyone have these working right? Does the diverter valve give any feedback when it actuates between windshield and headlight washer modes?
I know it is functioned by either pressing/releasing versus pressing/holding the wiper button, but I would think you'd be able to hear/feel the solenoid actuating within the valve when working the button.
Not sure if the new valve is working, or what..........
I would think the vent hose would at least not want to just sit loosely in the trough. Might end up getting water in it, etc.
I'll check the AIM for the proper routing of all 3 within the plenum. Not sure if it clips up to the hanger that the alarm switch wires hang from.
Now that all this is done, I'm moving ahead to try to get the headlight washers working. I bought a new diverter valve to split the headlights from the windshield washers, but it doesn't seem to be operating correctly yet.
Does anyone have these working right? Does the diverter valve give any feedback when it actuates between windshield and headlight washer modes?
I know it is functioned by either pressing/releasing versus pressing/holding the wiper button, but I would think you'd be able to hear/feel the solenoid actuating within the valve when working the button.
Not sure if the new valve is working, or what..........
#32
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes
on
2,515 Posts
Hi Bb,
The AIM page I noted isn't very clear about the routing of the hoses beyond pointing out that the vent hose should extend through the firewall grommet 1-1/2".
The other 2 hoses are pretty easy to figure out though, one has to hook to a vacuum supply coming across the firewall and the other has to go to the metal port on the headlight door actuator.
Sorry, but I can't really help with your washer questions… simply no experience at all with that system.
Regards,
Alan
The AIM page I noted isn't very clear about the routing of the hoses beyond pointing out that the vent hose should extend through the firewall grommet 1-1/2".
The other 2 hoses are pretty easy to figure out though, one has to hook to a vacuum supply coming across the firewall and the other has to go to the metal port on the headlight door actuator.
Sorry, but I can't really help with your washer questions… simply no experience at all with that system.
Regards,
Alan
#33
threaded wiper mounts
Can anyone tell me were I can purchase the mounting bracket the wiper linkage attaches to?
I need these gold or black mounts for wiper linkage. Where can i buy them? thanks!
I need these gold or black mounts for wiper linkage. Where can i buy them? thanks!
Last edited by 1969kid; 09-16-2020 at 09:13 AM.
#34
Administrator
Member Since: Jul 2000
Location: About 1100 miles from where I call home. Blue lives matter.
Posts: 51,391
Received 5,323 Likes
on
2,772 Posts