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-Just replace the 6 bleeder valves for $30 in our C3 brake systems with these one way valve bleeder valves that only allow fluid out and not air back in- then just crack them open and mash on the pedal for 3-6 pedal pushes per valve and you've bled your brakes?!?
I tried the stupid mity vac, the pressure bleeders have just too many complaints of them not fitting up to the master cylinders well for me to bother with but these seem dead simple.
-Just replace the 6 bleeder valves for $30 in our C3 brake systems with these one way valve bleeder valves that only allow fluid out and not air back in- then just crack them open and mash on the pedal for 3-6 pedal pushes per valve and you've bled your brakes?!?
I tried the stupid mity vac, the pressure bleeders have just too many complaints of them not fitting up to the master cylinders well for me to bother with but these seem dead simple.
Hi Adam,
I think the speed bleeder description ignores the reality that the air in the lines isn't just waiting right at the bleeder… it's back 2-4-6-8' from the bleeder…. so all that fluid needs to come out through the bleeder before the last of the air is removed.
If speed bleeders were THE answer there'd be no need/market for other bleeding methods.
Regards,
Alan
Hi Adam,
I think the speed bleeder description ignores the reality that the air in the lines isn't just waiting right at the bleeder… it's back 2-4-6-8' from the bleeder…. so all that fluid needs to come out through the bleeder before the last of the air is removed.
If speed bleeders were THE answer there'd be no need/market for other bleeding methods.
Regards,
Alan
Motive pressure bleeder works great....just clamp it on to the master cylinder tight.
-Just replace the 6 bleeder valves for $30 in our C3 brake systems with these one way valve bleeder valves that only allow fluid out and not air back in- then just crack them open and mash on the pedal for 3-6 pedal pushes per valve and you've bled your brakes?!?
I tried the stupid mity vac, the pressure bleeders have just too many complaints of them not fitting up to the master cylinders well for me to bother with but these seem dead simple.
They work for a while. Problem is you need to add sealer (red stuff you see in the pic) to the threads so that air is not sucked past the threads when they are loosened. So yes they work as long as the threads are sealed.
Watching that video I think the sealant could be put on the threads of standard bleeders and the one person method could be used. His bleeders were pretty tight, probably because he or the PO never used them before, so they seemed to not suck air around the threads.
Had the fluid been flushed regularly he probably would not need to be changing the calipers in the first place.
My bleeders are used and looser and would definitely suck air around the threads.
Last edited by REELAV8R; May 24, 2017 at 04:09 PM.
Motive brake bleeders are not that much trouble. It's what I use for my 79 and I've never had better braking performance. As I'm sure you've read, I did as others suggest and have never used the chains that come in the kit. I've used bar clamps and large C clamps to get a good seal on the master cylinder. Once you've got a good seal, just open a bleeder and wait for the fluid to start running out, then watch the fluid flow until you have no more air bubbles. To me, couldn't be much easier.
They work for a while. Problem is you need to add sealer (red stuff you see in the pic) to the threads so that air is not sucked past the threads when they are loosened. So yes they work as long as the threads are sealed.
BINGO!!!
I took them off my C-5, for exactly THAT reason. However, I think that about 4-5 wraps of Teflon tape, on the threads of the bleeders, might seal them tightly enough, so they wouldn't suck any air.