Meguire's 2.0X scratch remover
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Meguire's 2.0X scratch remover
Has anyone used this product by hand before? I bought a bottle at Carlisle after seeing some miraculous videos. I don't have a proper DA unit. While my car's paint is nice 'n shiny, the PO must have had Stevie Wonder do the paint because it's horrific up close. Lipstick on a pig stuff, but I'd at least like to try and get the swirls out of the clear and there are some hazy areas that need attention too.
#2
Racer
Has anyone used this product by hand before? I bought a bottle at Carlisle after seeing some miraculous videos. I don't have a proper DA unit. While my car's paint is nice 'n shiny, the PO must have had Stevie Wonder do the paint because it's horrific up close. Lipstick on a pig stuff, but I'd at least like to try and get the swirls out of the clear and there are some hazy areas that need attention too.
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
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#5
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2015
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If you haven't already tried I suggest using a clay bar before any abrasive polish. If you're not familiar with clar bars they are safe for any paint finish and capable of performing miracles. They will remove even heavy overspray. Parking lot encounters disappear. Even more serious problems that look like they'll cost hundreds if not thousands to repair can be turned into minor flaws that you have to look to find.
#6
The ORIGINAL and bestest
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Toronto Events Coordinator
I've used it for years, always had great results.
I've always applied and removed it by hand though, never used a machine to do it.....and I have never used it for a large area, just scuffs and scratches.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
#9
I'm a big fan of Meguiar's 105 and 205 Professional Grade polishes. I always start with 205, but move to 105 if I need something more aggressive for paint correction. 105 will take out 1,000 grit scratches. I'm pretty sure Scratch X is a consumer retail version of their Pro Grade polishes, but I'm not sure which formulation. If you're correcting an entire car, get yourself a nice DA polisher and don't look back. They are easy to use and produce superior results to hand polishing. Also, you can vary the foam pad material for more (or less) aggressive correction. Good luck!
Last edited by Neil B; 06-01-2017 at 09:00 AM.
#10
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2016
Location: Central Bucks County, Pennsylvania
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Using a Portor Cable PC 7424 XP while applying the Meguires Scratch X will show superior end results over hand application/removal. You cannot hurt the paint or clear coat with the 7424 XP.
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks all! I may just have to take the plunge and buy a good DA unit. Probably less than paying someone to do the whole car. And yes, the entire car's clear coat/finish looks like a giant swirl mark. Lots of work ahead with some cold beers, a shade tree and tunes I guess.
#13
Instructor
Post a pic or two of the paint with the sun shining directly on it. Let's see how bad the paint is and we can better advise how to fix it. If it's as bad as you say, it probably needs to be polished with a rotary and something like Megs 105 on a wool or foam cutting pad to start. Whether you pay someone to do this or learn how to do it yourself is up to you, but you can damage paint with tools made to actually fix it if you don't know what you're doing.
A lot of the consumer grade "polishes" that are designed to be applied by hand or with a DA contain a lot of fillers to mask scratches without truly removing them. You should be able to wipe the finish with alcohol when you're done polishing and not see any scratches. Waxes and sealants should just be needed to protect the finish. That's what the phrase "paint correction" means.
A DA buffer is sort of in between doing it by hand and a rotary. It will fix some stuff, but will take longer and is less prone to damage paint.
A lot of the consumer grade "polishes" that are designed to be applied by hand or with a DA contain a lot of fillers to mask scratches without truly removing them. You should be able to wipe the finish with alcohol when you're done polishing and not see any scratches. Waxes and sealants should just be needed to protect the finish. That's what the phrase "paint correction" means.
A DA buffer is sort of in between doing it by hand and a rotary. It will fix some stuff, but will take longer and is less prone to damage paint.
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Post a pic or two of the paint with the sun shining directly on it. Let's see how bad the paint is and we can better advise how to fix it. If it's as bad as you say, it probably needs to be polished with a rotary and something like Megs 105 on a wool or foam cutting pad to start. Whether you pay someone to do this or learn how to do it yourself is up to you, but you can damage paint with tools made to actually fix it if you don't know what you're doing.
A lot of the consumer grade "polishes" that are designed to be applied by hand or with a DA contain a lot of fillers to mask scratches without truly removing them. You should be able to wipe the finish with alcohol when you're done polishing and not see any scratches. Waxes and sealants should just be needed to protect the finish. That's what the phrase "paint correction" means.
A DA buffer is sort of in between doing it by hand and a rotary. It will fix some stuff, but will take longer and is less prone to damage paint.
A lot of the consumer grade "polishes" that are designed to be applied by hand or with a DA contain a lot of fillers to mask scratches without truly removing them. You should be able to wipe the finish with alcohol when you're done polishing and not see any scratches. Waxes and sealants should just be needed to protect the finish. That's what the phrase "paint correction" means.
A DA buffer is sort of in between doing it by hand and a rotary. It will fix some stuff, but will take longer and is less prone to damage paint.
#15
Drifting
If you haven't already tried I suggest using a clay bar before any abrasive polish. If you're not familiar with clar bars they are safe for any paint finish and capable of performing miracles. They will remove even heavy overspray. Parking lot encounters disappear. Even more serious problems that look like they'll cost hundreds if not thousands to repair can be turned into minor flaws that you have to look to find.
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
I am going to get a clay bar after reading all the comments and seeing some great youtube vids. I have a white C4 that could benefit from using it as well. I'll be interested to see how much hidden dirt it pulls from a white car.
#17
Melting Slicks
Look into NanoSkin pads. They are used the same way you would use clay. Reason I like NanoSkin pads is if you drop it you can rinse it off and keep going, you drop the clay and you throw it away. Both do a great job.
#18
Clear coat
I must have scraped something sharp on the lower portion of the body just behind the door. The clear coat has a serious scratch, and a small piece has started to peel. Any way to fix this?
#19
Safety Car
If you haven't already tried I suggest using a clay bar before any abrasive polish. If you're not familiar with clar bars they are safe for any paint finish and capable of performing miracles. They will remove even heavy overspray. Parking lot encounters disappear. Even more serious problems that look like they'll cost hundreds if not thousands to repair can be turned into minor flaws that you have to look to find.