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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 02:36 PM
  #21  
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Is your lower (suction) radiator hose a 'rigid' design which prevents collapse or does it have the anti-collapse spring installed inside?

If not, the harder the pump works to suction fluid from that hose, the more it would collapse and limit flow to the pump. This is a common problem with the 'excessive heating at elevated speeds' problem.
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Cooter Tech
Any chance your fans are cycling with your heater controls? I have tried the heater core trick whenever my car overheats, and it made very little if any difference in engine temps.
Fans and controller work like they should. They ramp on about 185 and up again about 200. Lectric limited F5 works like a champ. So far.
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Is your lower (suction) radiator hose a 'rigid' design which prevents collapse or does it have the anti-collapse spring installed inside?

If not, the harder the pump works to suction fluid from that hose, the more it would collapse and limit flow to the pump. This is a common problem with the 'excessive heating at elevated speeds' problem.
Hose has the spring. The problem shows up at idle and at speed on the hiway. Heat comes down from 235-40 in about 20 seconds when the heater circuit opens.
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 03:18 PM
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Thanks to all who contributed and helped try to solve this little bump in the road. Time's up for today so 'til we meet again, thanks again and keep the rubber side down.

oldguy (other wise known as Jim)
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 03:34 PM
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I understand what you are saying and seeing but water not flowing through the heater core will not cause the water pump to lock up. You could disconnect and block off both inlet and outlet hoses (same as a shutoff valve) and the water pump will still pump water through the block.

Think of cars that had a "Heater Delete" option.
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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 05:01 PM
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If you replace the thermostat, your problem will go away.
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 12:38 AM
  #27  
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The thermostat is the most likely cause, given the info you have provided. It is probably closed and under idle conditions will stay closed and cause overheating. When you begin driving, the added pressure from the water pump may cause the stat to open a bit and allow the temps to drop some. If the stat locks in at that point, further increase in engine speed would cause further heating.

When you turn the heater on high, the water line from the pump is direct...it doesn't flow through the stat; so it takes a significant portion of the heat and dumps it, causing the temps to drop.

Makes sense to me.
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 08:53 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette


The thermostat is the most likely cause, given the info you have provided. It is probably closed and under idle conditions will stay closed and cause overheating. When you begin driving, the added pressure from the water pump may cause the stat to open a bit and allow the temps to drop some. If the stat locks in at that point, further increase in engine speed would cause further heating.

When you turn the heater on high, the water line from the pump is direct...it doesn't flow through the stat; so it takes a significant portion of the heat and dumps it, causing the temps to drop.

Makes sense to me.
Yep--me too. Kinda-sorta. Where I have a problem with this is that in order for the heater core to remove THAT much heat that quickly it would need to be as big as the radiator. The ONLY route to the rad is thru the stat. The cooling system works very well, when the heater core is in the circuit, so the thermo MUST be open for it to even work at all. No? It seems to come down to WHERE THE HELL IS MY BY-PASS? Do big blocks run the same way if that external by-pass hose is missing or blocked some way? If so, what is so different about this normally configured SBC block, heads, water pump,thermo, fans et al that it must have the heater core in the circuit to cool. Which it does. Very well.
Any ideas from some big block guys on this by-pass thing?
I welcome any input to help put the worms back in the can.
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 11:15 AM
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so is it a bb or sb? sb has bypass built-in the block (that extra hole where the pump mounts).

big blocks MUST have the upper hose connected for bypass.

see pics, it is possible someone blocked the block or the water pump if a SB
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 12:29 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by gungatim
so is it a bb or sb? sb has bypass built-in the block (that extra hole where the pump mounts).

big blocks MUST have the upper hose connected for bypass.

see pics, it is possible someone blocked the block or the water pump if a SB
I think you're onto something here. I just looked at spare 9121 pump and the by-pass port is there and not plugged in any way. That said, I don't know if the sbc Dart SHP 400 block comes with a plug in the port or not. If the guy who put it together doesn't know for sure I guess we're looking at pulling the pump to have look. It sure looks like this may be the best fix for this little problem. I will have to take the lumps 'cuz I installed the pump but didn't notice a plug in the port if this is what's causing the problem. I prolly wouldn't even think to look. Believe it not, this may be my very first misteak!! We shall see what we shall see. Thanks much.
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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 07:12 PM
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Problem solved. No by-pass port in block. Will rig up a big block
by-pass and move on. Thanks to all.
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