Paint & primer
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Paint & primer
I am about to prime my 69 and when I removed the paint (lots of colors) the primer was brown. I talked to our local paint supplier and he told me to use black primer for paint code 983 fathom green. I think he should know however I thought I would run it by the Forum.
Thanks Chuck
Thanks Chuck
#2
Melting Slicks
The body and paint forum is a great place to learn about all of that. But...since you asked. How original do you want the paint job to be? The factory used that red oxide primer. Most guys are using some type of epoxy primer over bare glass these days. I used a black epoxy primer for its first 2 coats over the bare glass. Then used several grey coats, which mostly was sanded back off during the blocking phase. When I was done it looked like an appaloosa horse! I then handed the car off to a pro for a once over, final sealing and finish coats.
Keep in mind Im just your typical novice in the paint area. I have numerous hours in fiberglass repairs. Seam grinding and filling, door skin replacement, qtr panel rebuild, tail light panel removal, repair and reinstallation, cracks in the fenders, nose etc. When I stripped the original paint, all kinds of shoddy previous work which I ground out and redid. So in the end, I spent numerous hrs just blocking it to make it look as good as can be.
Keep in mind Im just your typical novice in the paint area. I have numerous hours in fiberglass repairs. Seam grinding and filling, door skin replacement, qtr panel rebuild, tail light panel removal, repair and reinstallation, cracks in the fenders, nose etc. When I stripped the original paint, all kinds of shoddy previous work which I ground out and redid. So in the end, I spent numerous hrs just blocking it to make it look as good as can be.
Last edited by Sunstroked; 06-17-2017 at 11:26 AM.
#3
DuPont/Axalta is probably what you are using. Seems they're the go to color source for vintage vette paint. It should say right on the paint can what sealer color shade to use. I know 70 donnybrook green calls for black. Play it safe and always go with what the paint manufacturer calls for. It's all about reproducing the final factory color finish, if they say it takes black to get there go with it. look for a V S and a number on the can label. 1 thru 7, 7 being black. Even if you are not using Axalta you can still find the right sealer shade to use using their system.
THE VALUE IS IN THE SHADE
Developed by Cromax, ValueShade delivers the optimal undercoat for every topcoat colour. Different shades of grey are matched to different topcoat colours; a perfect combination that requires less paint. Our colour retrieval tools specify the right ValueShade for every topcoat, minimising preparation time. Lower paint consumption and less work time reap improved productivity and profitability. That’s the ValueShade advantage.
THE ADDED VALUE OF GREY
Seven shades of grey are associated with each colour topcoat, ensuring optimal coverage of the undercoat in as few layers as possible. ValueShade gives you the best possible topcoat performance, saving you time and money.
ValueShade Product
http://www.cromax.com/eu/en_GB/colou...alueshade.html
THE VALUE IS IN THE SHADE
Developed by Cromax, ValueShade delivers the optimal undercoat for every topcoat colour. Different shades of grey are matched to different topcoat colours; a perfect combination that requires less paint. Our colour retrieval tools specify the right ValueShade for every topcoat, minimising preparation time. Lower paint consumption and less work time reap improved productivity and profitability. That’s the ValueShade advantage.
THE ADDED VALUE OF GREY
Seven shades of grey are associated with each colour topcoat, ensuring optimal coverage of the undercoat in as few layers as possible. ValueShade gives you the best possible topcoat performance, saving you time and money.
ValueShade Product
http://www.cromax.com/eu/en_GB/colou...alueshade.html
Last edited by car junkie; 06-17-2017 at 12:34 PM.
#4
Race Director
I am about to prime my 69 and when I removed the paint (lots of colors) the primer was brown. I talked to our local paint supplier and he told me to use black primer for paint code 983 fathom green. I think he should know however I thought I would run it by the Forum.
Thanks Chuck
Thanks Chuck
I know this color well due to having shot a few 1969's in that color.
Knowing that the Fathom Green is a dark green....using a black undercoat provides a beginning color that can possibly take less coats for the Fathom green to achieve full hiding/saturation....versus a light gray.
Not knowing if the paint shop you are buying your paint from has them ( they should). But getting a few sappy out cards can help. The spray out cards I get are from NEXA which are called 'COLOR EVALUATION CARDS' are black and white checker paper cards that I apply my color to. Whew I apply the paint just like I would the car...when I can cover the checkers and NOT see where the white and black checkers meet...I KNOW that I am at full hiding.
So I know that regardless of whatever color of sealer I apply...that number of coats will cover it.
NOW ..I know there are some spray out cards that are already in a specific gray color like previously mentioned and they are used IF I am attempting to color match a color on a new car and KNOW what shade of sealer was used.
Also...keep in mind that being a metallic color...you can actually lighten the color or darken it by employing some changes and adjustments when spraying.
Also..do not be fooled...NOT ALL PAINT COMPANIES who make paint are the same...some colors are so weak in pigments that they need numerous coats... while other paint companies have very strong pigments and they take less paint due to being so strong.
I can say that if I do a complete paint job...I generally can mix up two quarts and cover the entire car and have some paint left over....and those two quarts of raw paint will reduce 1:1 and make a gallon of spray-able paint.
DUB
#6
Le Mans Master
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DUB (06-19-2017)
#7
Race Director
SERIOUSLY????
Hopefully this link to a thread will satisfy you...or do I need to actually show Fathom Green (which I can) instead of Donneybrook green.
The fourth photo in the first post. The Donneybrook Green Corvette beside the 1960. I did that. Read the thread...Belgie took home the BEST C3 at this show.
I will post a photo of the Fathom green one tomorrow ..just for you.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...hevy-show.html
DUB
Hopefully this link to a thread will satisfy you...or do I need to actually show Fathom Green (which I can) instead of Donneybrook green.
The fourth photo in the first post. The Donneybrook Green Corvette beside the 1960. I did that. Read the thread...Belgie took home the BEST C3 at this show.
I will post a photo of the Fathom green one tomorrow ..just for you.
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...hevy-show.html
DUB
#8
Race Director
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cdj46 (06-20-2017)
#9
Race Director
I hope you got the answers you were looking for Chuck.
Sorry that your thread took a slight turn but here are the photos as promised to those who doubt what I write.
These are three photos of the car when it came into the shop. Sorry ..these are from actual photographs and not digital and are not 'cleaned up' and the only thing I did to them was take out the license plate number.
These are a couple of photos when it was in process.
A new press molded quarter being installed.
The finished product taken across the street from my shop location at that time.
The photo taken form down the street from my shop at that time AFTER the World Of Wheels car show.
And as you can see...the car did well at the car show.
Hopefully this satisfies those who doubt.
DUB
Sorry that your thread took a slight turn but here are the photos as promised to those who doubt what I write.
These are three photos of the car when it came into the shop. Sorry ..these are from actual photographs and not digital and are not 'cleaned up' and the only thing I did to them was take out the license plate number.
These are a couple of photos when it was in process.
A new press molded quarter being installed.
The finished product taken across the street from my shop location at that time.
The photo taken form down the street from my shop at that time AFTER the World Of Wheels car show.
And as you can see...the car did well at the car show.
Hopefully this satisfies those who doubt.
DUB
#10
Pro
I hope you got the answers you were looking for Chuck.
Sorry that your thread took a slight turn but here are the photos as promised to those who doubt what I write.
These are three photos of the car when it came into the shop. Sorry ..these are from actual photographs and not digital and are not 'cleaned up' and the only thing I did to them was take out the license plate number.
These are a couple of photos when it was in process.
A new press molded quarter being installed.
The finished product taken across the street from my shop location at that time.
The photo taken form down the street from my shop at that time AFTER the World Of Wheels car show.
And as you can see...the car did well at the car show.
Hopefully this satisfies those who doubt.
DUB
Sorry that your thread took a slight turn but here are the photos as promised to those who doubt what I write.
These are three photos of the car when it came into the shop. Sorry ..these are from actual photographs and not digital and are not 'cleaned up' and the only thing I did to them was take out the license plate number.
These are a couple of photos when it was in process.
A new press molded quarter being installed.
The finished product taken across the street from my shop location at that time.
The photo taken form down the street from my shop at that time AFTER the World Of Wheels car show.
And as you can see...the car did well at the car show.
Hopefully this satisfies those who doubt.
DUB
69 Fathom Green..L46
Thanks goodness those ugly wheels were changed out back to the originals.
#11
Race Director
DUB
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Paint
Chuck