I removed my windshield to clean and paint the frame. I was very happy with the condition, with only minor surface rust and pitting. I'm now putting everything back together, and I'm confused on a few things.


The windsheild reveal clips look like they should be screwed in. The parts stores show this to be true.

When I removed the clips, only the end clips were screwed down, using the screw that also holds down the windsheild and caps. The rest of the clips seemed to just be stuck in the windshield sealer. At first I thought this was just a half-assed windshield install. But even after stripping the frame to bare metal, I could find no holes in the frame for the screws.
What am I missing?




I'm also not sure if my trim was installed with the correct screws. This is the hodgepodge I'm left with.

If you can ID the location of these screws i would be most appreciative! These should be for the stainless t-bar trim.

 

IF you have NO HOLES for the clips for the outer trim...BETWEEN the upper outer corner chrome trim molding that your T-tops latch to...I HAVE seen it like this before.

The trim molding clips get slid onto the front edge of your 'T' stainless trim when it is being installed and the need for screws is NOT needed.

PHOTO #2. The pan head screws on the right side. The long ones are for the two front screws locations for your upper outer t-top moldings....and the short ones are used to hold the side pillar post stainless trim on.

The three small sheet metal screw on the right are used to hold the molding clips right in front of the t-top chrome molding you just installed the other long screws into.

I can say you are gong to need a lot more screws than what you have. The screws in your last photo look like they are used to hold the 'T' stainless trim on.

And ..for what this is worth. You might want to remove the paint on your windshield frame WHERE the urethane adhesive is going to be applied. Let that be bare steel because the glass company who installs your windshield has specific primers that are used SPECIFICALLY and it is NOT WISE to paint this flange. A thin coat of CATALYZED epoxy primer is fine..but painting it is not wise.

DUB

 

Thanks for the response. Although if I use the long silver screws to attach the corner trim, there will be no holes left for the short ones to attach the clips...

I'll have to find out what type of urethane the glass company uses. I was researching them earlier today, and some are advertised for use without primer. The outer layer is just spray paint, but below that is two coats of Chassis Saver.

 

Hi LC,
On my 71 all the clips were screwed into place.

If you look carefully you'll notice that the clips are shaped to receive a screw that's countersunk. This allows the screw to 'nestle' down into the clip. (The clips can be put on backwards…. so be cautious.)

Also, the original screws on my car are flat head. This is necessary to allow the flanges on the ss trim to slip past the screw heads and fully seat into the clip.

I wouldn't use any of the screws in your photos to install the clips. I think the chance is too great that the trim will 'catch' on them when you install it.

I recommend that you look for some very small countersunk, flat head, cross recess, screws to mount your trim clips.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

Yes Alan...on your year model they were screwed in place...but his car is not your year model....seeing how I believe his car is a 1976...which falls in line with how the clips are not screwed in place.

And like I wrote....I have seen molding clips that are not screwed in and NO HOLES drilled in the top windshield frame.

So much has to to with the 'T' stainless trim because they are different from 1968 to 1982.

NOW...if he wants to to drill holes where there are no holes and GAIN nothing...because IF the clips worked fine previously....why 're-invent the wheel' in this area.

And I do not trust what some of the information from some of the parts suppliers because I do not for a fact that I have worked on a Corvettes that had no screws holding the clips in place and NEVER had a problem.

BUT....he can do as he wishes.

DUB

 

YES...you will need to get flat headed screws like Alan mentioned for the four outer clips (2 on each side) that need to be fastened into the frame.

Post a good photo of the front leading edge of your 'T' stainless trim...where it bends down 90 degrees and heads towards where these clips go.....if you don't mind.

I need to see how far down that bent edge goes,

The also post a photo of the outer trim that goes across your windshield that these clips in question will hold down...these moldings are also different and not all the same.

DUB

 

I played around with it a little today. I started to screw down the outer clips so I could check fitment, only to find that the clips in that position don't line up with the tabs on the windshield reveal strip. So it looks like ALL of the clips will need to be glued in.

I can take picture if you like, but at this point I think I pass it on to whoever installs the windshield.

 

Also, by judging from the condition of the lip on the t-top trim, I don't think the clips were tucked in behind it.

 

This is a bad idea...because you are putting your trust into someone who more than likely does not know about this car specifically....and will pump it full with the urethane to get things to stay put...and DO NOT ask me how I know that IT CAN be done that way.

DUB

 

Well if the clips were originally held in by the windshield sealant, and I don't want to add extra holes to the frame, what other option would there be? Use epoxy or urethane to install the clips before having the windshield installed?

 

The clips were NOT ORIGINALLY held in my urethane...which is why I need a photo(s).


The clips are held in by the front edge to the big 'T' stainless trim.

DUB

 

 

First pic shows the windsheild corner. You can see the dum-dum covering the screw hole. I see now there are two other small holes. Those must be for the clips.

Pic 2 shows the massive gap. I'm not sure if I like these aftermarket windsheild corner trim pieces. I already had to grind the inside to sit lower, and the inner screw hole doesn't line up. I don't know if I can get a decent trim gap. I think I'm going to take them off and compare fitment to the originals

Pic 3 is back of the trim.

 

Thanks for the photos.

And YES...getting the upper corner molding to fit correctly and allow the trim to clip into the clips and still have a very decent gap between the stainless trim and the new corner molding CAN BE FUN...to say the least.

Also keep in mind the thin stainless trim you are installing can move a little bit from side to side....and make sure you have enough of it UNDER the outer vertical pillar post stainless trims is IMPORTANT also.

NOW..as for the trim clips that go under the front edge of the lager 'T' stainless trim..they can be tricky to slide under that 'T' trim. When the clips are installed CORRECTLY...there is no way that the tabs on your thin stainless trim can not go into these clips you installed because the backside flat portion of the clip (with the hole in it) is BETWEEN the 'T' stainless and the windshield frame...and they seat all the way down onto the frame area and can not move.

When you get it all correct. I place a piece of masking tape on the 'T' trim and have it go onto the thin stainless trim and cut it where the tape covers the seam...This way...when you go and put it all together when the windshield is in and getting adjusted correctly..you do not have to guess where the thin trim has to go from side to side.

DUB