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Just getting ready to start detailing my engine bay, frame, control arms etc. I know POR 15 seems to be the choice but some are topcoating to take away the high gloss. Is there something else that you could recomend that will give me that satin semigloss look??? Company, vender product name....etc??? I would use a rattle can or a spray gun, undercoat or not???
Many of us also use Hot Rod Black Matte finish. You can get it at almost any autobody supply place. You can clean the firewall with thinner or acetone. A nice coat of primer and then the black come out really nice. Check it out.
RVZIO
Stock engine compartment paint (on surfaces) was semi-flat or satin black paint. If you go with matte (flat) paint, any contact to the painted surface will leave a mark. Surface will get pretty ugly after a short while if you work on the engine. Also, very hard to get oil off that kind of surface.
Gloss paints will look totally out of place...unless the surfaces are finished to an exterior body condition.
Semi-gloss black was applied to the frame components and to the engine 'components' which were painted black (housings, air cleaner, brackets, straps, etc) that are attached to it.
There has always been confusion about satin vs semi gloss vs matte vs low gloss. They can all pretty much look the same depending on manufacturer. I've used a lot of Rustoleum satin black over the years with good results, it touches up well once thoroughly cured. I have switched to catalyzed paint for bigger projects in the past few years. Haven't had to do touch ups yet but when I do they are going to have to be done with a spray gun. This is where using spray cans come in handy, no need for excessive masking to do small touch ups. I also noticed many spray can paints are not compatible, wrinkling problems. Krylon seems to be the best for fast drying and recoating. Rustoleum must have a few days between coats when recoating. Definitely the most durable spray can paint I found to date is Valspar tractor and implement finish. Farm and fleet sells this. The trouble with it is the nozzles get plugged after sitting overnight. I soak them in lacquer thinner, I do all my nozzles like this now, and I can get some of them to work but it's a pain in the ***. Gotta get the job done at once or use a new can to continue for best results. Of all these brands I never had any paint jobs peel. Bought cars with peeling engine compartment paint all over the place so I'm thinking they probably left a oily residue over everything, who knows?
This is the catalyzed paint I use which looks very similar to the firewall example above.
I went with gloss black this time, haven't got the engine in yet but I think it's gonna look great, I had semi gloss before and it looked good also but wanted to do a change when the engine was out anyway
Did gloss this round too. Prep has to be perfect or it will look horrible
x2 on most the satin blacks looking similar real hard to go wrong and easy to touch up. POR looks great if done right but these days too many alternatives that are cheaper and easier to apply. Dont breathe it if you spray it youll be sorry!
I will say the POR engine paints are awesome. I did myblock in their platinum back around 2000 its been through 2 rebuilds and still looks the same as the day I did it. Great stuff! Their orange looks brilliant...gloss is nice. Not NCRS right but if debating youll love the way it looks.
Todays rattle can stuff is pretty good if I had to do it over id use Ford grey
My preferred spray paint for engine compartment, wheel-well blackout, and interior trim is John Deere "Blitz Black". It has the same sheen as the Krylon paint, you get more paint in the can than Krylon, the JD paint is more durable and goes on better (better/more even spray from the can than Krylon).
Engine Bay Paint
