71 fuse block loose
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 697
71 fuse block loose
I'm replacing the rear wiring harness on my 71. As I was disconnecting the rear harness plug I noticed the fuse holder side of the fuse block was loose and could be pulled away from the back piece. Further investigation determined that the two plastic clips that hold the fuse block together were unhooked. I have an AIM manual and in there it doesn't show any clips. It shows two screws that go thru two holes on the fuse block and into the sheet metal inside the fire wall.
I also double checked the bolt that holds the fuse block to the firewall and it was tight.
I looked for the two holes but they are not there. I reattached the clips so I hope everything is good.
Anyone else ran into this? Should I try and add the holes? It's going to be tough to get up in there to drill a couple of holes.
I also double checked the bolt that holds the fuse block to the firewall and it was tight.
I looked for the two holes but they are not there. I reattached the clips so I hope everything is good.
Anyone else ran into this? Should I try and add the holes? It's going to be tough to get up in there to drill a couple of holes.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Maybe that wiring & fuse block was replaced with a non-standard part in the past. Two screws mounting the fuse assembly to the firewall and the two wiring connectors inserted into the backside of the block from the engine side.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 697
So as I have removed the old rear harness the orange and white wires are melted together which damaged the fuel gauge wire and other wires.
The orange and white wires are for the courtesy lights. When I insulated the rear compartment with dyna-mat type and then a foil covered jute insulation.
As I pulled back the insulation the rear courtesy light wires were melted. It's a bit hard to tell but it looks like the wire ends near the courtesy light both the orange and white had contacted the foil of the insulation creating a short and the melted the wires.
A bit of a guess on my part but that's my story and I'm sticking with it.
The orange and white wires are for the courtesy lights. When I insulated the rear compartment with dyna-mat type and then a foil covered jute insulation.
As I pulled back the insulation the rear courtesy light wires were melted. It's a bit hard to tell but it looks like the wire ends near the courtesy light both the orange and white had contacted the foil of the insulation creating a short and the melted the wires.
A bit of a guess on my part but that's my story and I'm sticking with it.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I would be shocked and amazed that the metal retainer that allows these two screws to hold the fuse panel is not there.
I know it is hard to do with the vacuum storage tank in the way..but can you see any retainer on the firewall side????
DUB
I know it is hard to do with the vacuum storage tank in the way..but can you see any retainer on the firewall side????
DUB
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 697
I'm headed out to the shop in a few minutes so I will look.
I've converted the head lights and wiper door to Miata electric so the vacuum tank is gone.
According to the AIM the sheet metal piece is on the inside of the firewall?
Thanks for everyone's help.
I've converted the head lights and wiper door to Miata electric so the vacuum tank is gone.
According to the AIM the sheet metal piece is on the inside of the firewall?
Thanks for everyone's help.
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 697
So I unbolted the engine side of the wiring harness. I pulled the inside part of the fuse box away from the firewall. There is a metal plate with the holes required to screw the inside fuse box to the fire wall on the outside of the firewall.
But it looked like to me from the factory there has never been any screws thru those holes. I cleaned out the factory undercoat, electrical slime and screwed a couple of screws from my 68 C10 project and we are good to go.
Thanks for the help. See you at St. Paul Summer Nationals tomorrow.
But it looked like to me from the factory there has never been any screws thru those holes. I cleaned out the factory undercoat, electrical slime and screwed a couple of screws from my 68 C10 project and we are good to go.
Thanks for the help. See you at St. Paul Summer Nationals tomorrow.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
There is almost ZERO chance that the fuse block was not properly assembled at the factory.
The insulation on the orange and white wires may have melted because you had heat insulation over that wiring. When the lamps are ON, those wires carry some current and generate some heat. If they are insulated so they can't LOSE that heat, they will just keep getting hotter.
P.S. There isn't much reason to have heat insulation in the storage compartment area. No real heat source there, as long as the car is in motion.
The insulation on the orange and white wires may have melted because you had heat insulation over that wiring. When the lamps are ON, those wires carry some current and generate some heat. If they are insulated so they can't LOSE that heat, they will just keep getting hotter.
P.S. There isn't much reason to have heat insulation in the storage compartment area. No real heat source there, as long as the car is in motion.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jul 14, 2017 at 03:00 PM.