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My 69 is very similar. I went through several trans until I finally got what I wanted. Started with a $50 dollar th400, which worked as long as I kept feeding it trans fluid. With the shift kit, and 28-3200 stall it ran an 8.02 driving it to and from the track. Only made 4 passes. Then, I tried 2 different 200-4r trans. With anything over half throttle, the trans would slip. So, finally I ponied up for a 4000 stall FTI converter for a 4L85e from a legit military HMMVEE. The converter has triple disc lockup for WOT engaging, but won't do me any good with these pesky 3.36 gears. For controlling it, I ordered some cheap manual style controller, so whatever gear I am in, that's it. If the shifter is in 3rd, it will try taking off in 3rd. But it does have a control for what's called a sloppy trans brake. Basically when grounding the 3rd gear solenoid, the trans will go to 3rd gear, and allow the engine to stall higher on footbrake. When releasing the button to un-ground the 3rd gear, the trans will return to 1st and leave harder. Yet to try it out, but before I figured out the trans, the trans held great, and now shifts perfect and crisp. It is exactly what I wanted.
as for the LS swap, I think you'd be as pleased with your 396. I decided for my LQ4 setup because I wanted reliability, knowing I plan to beat on this car hard. I decided against building the 476 big block I had on the engine stand because I knew it would break alot of expensive parts! Looking back, I would've been better off keeping my 350 SBC. I still need to revise my gear drive tach, speedo, analog gauges. It is more involved than just an easy swap. My LS headers are way too low (3rd gen Camaro LS swap headers). They are nice, and cost 700 (I got them for 200), but they're just low. And even with an L88 hood, with my nitrous plate and Victor Jr intake, my float vents stab into the hood without even closing it, much less getting a breather to work. I could've saved myself 2 years of piddling and could've been cruising if I would've been satisfied with convention SBC 350. Yours is a 396! That is plenty. But if you are in the market for a true Aluminum LS1, I have one to build. Ready to assemble with new rings, bearings, gaskets, everything.
I just finished changing my cam (Tick .624/.605ish, 230ish duration, 113 LSA), heads from the old 317 heads to some Dart Pro1 220 cathedral, timing setup to dual roller, SLP oil pump to clear the timing setup, clearances the timing cover to clear the timing chain and gears, and using an 8quart pan off a G8 Pontiac. Literally finished it up and started it last weekend. After breaking the motor in for 30 minutes, I revved it hard. It hit the Rev limiter barely, just barely, then I heard a knock. Ugh. Luckily it is only a flywheel bolt(s) loose. I re-checked my bearings, they look great. So, until I pull this trans, we will see what this new setup will do.
Let me know if we can do some trading for those gears. I will get busy updating my page with some pics and video.
My 69 is very similar. I went through several trans until I finally got what I wanted. Started with a $50 dollar th400, which worked as long as I kept feeding it trans fluid. With the shift kit, and 28-3200 stall it ran an 8.02 driving it to and from the track. Only made 4 passes. Then, I tried 2 different 200-4r trans. With anything over half throttle, the trans would slip. So, finally I ponied up for a 4000 stall FTI converter for a 4L85e from a legit military HMMVEE. The converter has triple disc lockup for WOT engaging, but won't do me any good with these pesky 3.36 gears. For controlling it, I ordered some cheap manual style controller, so whatever gear I am in, that's it. If the shifter is in 3rd, it will try taking off in 3rd. But it does have a control for what's called a sloppy trans brake. Basically when grounding the 3rd gear solenoid, the trans will go to 3rd gear, and allow the engine to stall higher on footbrake. When releasing the button to un-ground the 3rd gear, the trans will return to 1st and leave harder. Yet to try it out, but before I figured out the trans, the trans held great, and now shifts perfect and crisp. It is exactly what I wanted.
as for the LS swap, I think you'd be as pleased with your 396. I decided for my LQ4 setup because I wanted reliability, knowing I plan to beat on this car hard. I decided against building the 476 big block I had on the engine stand because I knew it would break alot of expensive parts! Looking back, I would've been better off keeping my 350 SBC. I still need to revise my gear drive tach, speedo, analog gauges. It is more involved than just an easy swap. My LS headers are way too low (3rd gen Camaro LS swap headers). They are nice, and cost 700 (I got them for 200), but they're just low. And even with an L88 hood, with my nitrous plate and Victor Jr intake, my float vents stab into the hood without even closing it, much less getting a breather to work. I could've saved myself 2 years of piddling and could've been cruising if I would've been satisfied with convention SBC 350. Yours is a 396! That is plenty. But if you are in the market for a true Aluminum LS1, I have one to build. Ready to assemble with new rings, bearings, gaskets, everything.
I just finished changing my cam (Tick .624/.605ish, 230ish duration, 113 LSA), heads from the old 317 heads to some Dart Pro1 220 cathedral, timing setup to dual roller, SLP oil pump to clear the timing setup, clearances the timing cover to clear the timing chain and gears, and using an 8quart pan off a G8 Pontiac. Literally finished it up and started it last weekend. After breaking the motor in for 30 minutes, I revved it hard. It hit the Rev limiter barely, just barely, then I heard a knock. Ugh. Luckily it is only a flywheel bolt(s) loose. I re-checked my bearings, they look great. So, until I pull this trans, we will see what this new setup will do.
Let me know if we can do some trading for those gears. I will get busy updating my page with some pics and video.
Please dont add your post to a 4 year old thread. Start a new one.
07-20-2017, 08:55 AM
