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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 01:31 AM
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Default Another jack stand question......

I posted about 6 mos ago and asked those on this forum if I should sell my 76 and take a loss, or accept that I overpaid for it and didn't know what I was doing and just surge forward! Overall, most of you said charge on and go for it!
So, with that said, I am now ready to start doing some work to it, and that is to start cleaning up the frame etc underneath, and to do some interior work, including some wiring harnesses.
I'm wanting to know if I place this on 6T stands so I can work a little underneath, can I also safely work on the interior while it sits on the stands?
Have some of you worked on the interior while it was on stands, and if so, do you have any special advice for me?
Thanks in advance.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 03:38 AM
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I've never had a problem working on the interior when the car is on stands, I add an extra jack under the nose to give it some support as well because there is a lot of weight out the front when the wheels are off the ground. Some jack under the front crossmember but I won't risk that. You will find a lot of C3's with dents in the crossmember from doing this, you could spread the load with a 2 x 4 or some such and get away with it.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 05:58 AM
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Just make sure there is weight on all 6 stands.

Brian
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 07:08 AM
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Hi noh,
By '6T' stands I assume you mean 6 'ton' stands not 6 stands.
When I have the car on jack stands and want to use 6 stands rather than 4, I put the forward pair in this location if the sway bar is off the car.
If the sway bar is in place I put the stand in the same location but let the bracket for the sway bar bushing sit in the stand's cradle.
You might feel more secure working under or in the car if you leave the wheels/tires on it taking them off only when you're working right were one of them is.
Regards,
Alan




Last edited by Alan 71; Aug 3, 2017 at 07:20 AM.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 09:36 AM
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If it makes you feel any better I even started and ran mine on stands and it didn't budge. Just get good stands, on LEVEL concrete and put them in the proper places an you will be fine working on any part of the car while it's up there.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 12:40 PM
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Before I got my Quick Jack I use to put mine on 4 ramps. This will leave your frame completely accessible. Just a thought. Post pictures of your project.
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 03:35 PM
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I know it is a C2 but my buddy puts mine up all the time and we work on it just like in this pic. were in and out of it all the time hasn't fell off yet.


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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by nohurry
I posted about 6 mos ago and asked those on this forum if I should sell my 76 and take a loss, or accept that I overpaid for it and didn't know what I was doing and just surge forward! Overall, most of you said charge on and go for it!
So, with that said, I am now ready to start doing some work to it, and that is to start cleaning up the frame etc underneath, and to do some interior work, including some wiring harnesses.
I'm wanting to know if I place this on 6T stands so I can work a little underneath, can I also safely work on the interior while it sits on the stands?
Have some of you worked on the interior while it was on stands, and if so, do you have any special advice for me?
Thanks in advance.
I felt extremely safe in or under my 70' as I proceeded to work on my rebuild and having been in construction most my life, you can never be to safe. Highly recommend these: Myliftstand.com/and you can use them in conjunction with jack stands also.




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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 02:53 AM
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Thanks to all of you for answering me. I will be working in a carport, and am putting up a mist system this weekend to take some of the heat away, and the concrete is level. Not overly smooth, but level!

Alan........I did mean 6-Ton jack stands. I was going to pick up 4 of them, and have a single 12-Ton stand that I thought I'd use under the front cross member to support the front of the car. I'm hoping that will be sufficient.
PS...I don't think they make NEW cars that clean underneath! Thanks for the pictures.

Caskiguy.......thanks for the info on the Myliftstands. Those look good. I'm running on a budget, and my tires are old and cracking, so I'm not sure that would work at this time, but they look great and still might be worth springing for! Thanks for the info.

929nitro......I'd love to be able to get a QuickJack. Does it work well for a c3? I was looking at the BL3500SLX. Should I assume that is the one you have? BTW...I will take some pics and try to post as I go.

And thanks again to the rest of you. I feel a lot better about placing it up on stands now and working on both areas at once.
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 07:24 AM
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Hi nh,
Christmas will be along soon.
Speak to Mrs. Claus. She may be able to sneak them onto the sled right before he leaves for his deliveries.

These are pretty nice for someone with a low ceiling in their work space, and for someone who works under there with the wheels off.
Regards,
Alan



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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 929nitro
Before I got my Quick Jack I use to put mine on 4 ramps. This will leave your frame completely accessible. Just a thought. Post pictures of your project.


This is what I have done. I have removed and reinstalled a transmission doing this. (making sure the brakes are holding of course)
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 03:18 PM
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I built myself some ramps. There is no way I am climbing under a set of stands. But to each his own.
If you want some ramp ideas, check out my profile.
Ken
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 74Ken
I built myself some ramps. There is no way I am climbing under a set of stands. But to each his own.
If you want some ramp ideas, check out my profile.
Ken
Nice, do you have a specs and materials list still???
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 04:17 PM
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you know what those lift stands cost?.. buy 4 of them and you are halfway to a 4 post lift.
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 04:31 PM
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Food for thought. Big Airplanes use 3 jacking points, with a stabilizing jack added at the nose after you lift it, if there will be a lot of movement or work done. Most times just 3 lift points.
I have never used any more than 4 jack stands on any car or truck, including corvettes.
i now own a 4 post lift with a rolling jack. I wish I could have done that yrs ago.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by jlpskydive
Nice, do you have a specs and materials list still???
Here you go:
Ramps.
(4) 2x10x11’ (10’ required for a Corvette, 11' required for my Avalanche)
(2) 2x12x11' (10’ required for a Corvette, 11' required for my Avalanche)
(24) 2x10x7 5/8" (Blocking at 12” centers)
(2) 2x12x16” (Stopper wall)
(2) 2x12x9” (Stopper angle, cut on 45 degrees at both ends)
(2) 2x12x5’ (Ramps, cutting the long floor angle is the hardest part)
Left over pieces for the blocking on the Ramps.

Optional:
Wheels for moving around the garage.
Pot lights on the wheel sides to have more light under the car.

Last edited by 74Ken; Aug 9, 2017 at 09:25 AM.
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by nohurry
929nitro......I'd love to be able to get a QuickJack. Does it work well for a c3? I was looking at the BL3500SLX. Should I assume that is the one you have? BTW...I will take some pics and try to post as I go.
I have the BL5000SLX and it works great with the C3. Good luck with your project. Your method will work fine.
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To Another jack stand question......

Old Aug 10, 2017 | 06:41 AM
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I went the way that 74ken did. Built my own. They do limit to some degree the underneath "workability" space, but they are super strong and safe. Most of the time, i just leave the Vette parked on the ramps. Think I may have posted pics of them a wbile back. They also can double as motorcycle, golf carts etc. ramps too. Be safe.
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 11:13 AM
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Yep, I leave the Vette parked on it all winter long too.
Gives me some storage under it during the cold winter months.
Total clearance from the ground to the bottom of the car is 14"
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Old Mar 10, 2020 | 11:14 PM
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I read your post. Do you have any pics? I’m very interested in these.

Originally Posted by 74Ken
Here you go:
Ramps.
(4) 2x10x11’ (10’ required for a Corvette, 11' required for my Avalanche)
(2) 2x12x11' (10’ required for a Corvette, 11' required for my Avalanche)
(24) 2x10x7 5/8" (Blocking at 12” centers)
(2) 2x12x16” (Stopper wall)
(2) 2x12x9” (Stopper angle, cut on 45 degrees at both ends)
(2) 2x12x5’ (Ramps, cutting the long floor angle is the hardest part)
Left over pieces for the blocking on the Ramps.

Optional:
Wheels for moving around the garage.
Pot lights on the wheel sides to have more light under the car.
Reply



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