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New fuel pump and line, no fuel to carb

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Old 10-13-2017, 03:44 PM
  #21  
7T1vette
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You still could have purchased a non-functional pump. Makers don't test these things, you know. WE are the testers for their pumps (and other stuff). WE find the bad ones when we go to the trouble of installing them and THEY DON'T WORK!!!!!

It happens a LOT more often than you know.

Last edited by 7T1vette; 10-13-2017 at 03:45 PM.
Old 10-13-2017, 03:55 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by target30
Ok, so i finally got the right fittings, getting good amount of fuel to the pump. It was coming out pretty good when i changed the 90 degree fitting. still nothing to the carb. new pump, 90 degree fitting, and line to carb. so have to pull the new fuel pump and make sure the rod is engaged correctly? i was under the assumption if the rod wasnt in correctly, the pump wouldnt fit. it went it in fine and is seated well.
its a pain, but I'd pull the pump loose and make sure the rod is engaged and didn't fall. You'll know when you crack the bolts and screw them partially out, as the spring in the pump should force outward pressure on the pump and it will want to push away from the block. When you installed it, you say it seated well? You should need to almost push it in to get bolts started and pull the pump up to the block with bolts. If you pull it all the way off, fish the rod out, lube it with a good gob of grease, and push it back in. The grease will hold the rod while you get your pump in place.

Yes, people do have new pumps that are defective - that's not unheard of at all.
Old 10-13-2017, 05:49 PM
  #23  
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when i did it the first time, i had to pull the rod all the way out( removing the pump plate) and the i put grease on it, put the pump in place, i think the rod dropped because i couldnt get the pump to seat in, so i put more grease on the rod, pushed the pump into place and bolted it in.

am i wrong to think that if the rod isnt up and out of the way, the pump wont bolt flush? or ca i actually get the pump in with the rod not in the correct location?

i have a ton of gas at the pump, so when playing with the lines, it will almost pour out of the car side of the pump(i.e. the 90degree adapter). but with everything put together, i get no gas into the carb. i pulled the connection into the carb, and its not getting from the pump to the carb.

this isnt a hard thing, ive done harder! but im really at wits end here. getting the 90degree thing off the pump will be impossible..so it would be a new one of those and a new pump, to see if it is a bad pump. its only $35 or so, that i dont care about. im just getting frustrated....

Last edited by target30; 10-13-2017 at 05:52 PM.
Old 10-13-2017, 07:06 PM
  #24  
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so i reseated the pump, i made 99.9% sure the rod was up, and i had to hold it pretty hard in place to seat the bolts. put everything back together and still nothing. alot of fuel at the pump when i took it off, so i know its getting there. i was also able to suck fuel(dont ask how...)through the pump and up through the line to that carb. tried starting it and didnt get fuel out. the battery is really low, so im currently charging it and will try again a bit later. so i guess everything points to a doa fuel pump? i'll let you know when i try with a charged battery, but hopes are not high...
Old 10-13-2017, 09:26 PM
  #25  
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Two possibilities, the pump is bad or something is wrong with the cam shaft lobe that actuates the pump rod.
Old 10-14-2017, 02:32 PM
  #26  
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well, i got a new pump, 99.9% sure i got this one in correctly also. still nothing. still gas at pump, but nothing at carb. pulled the line into the carb and cranked it and got nothing out of it. i did bump the car over with the fuel pump out a few times and the rod definitely goes in and out. but maybe its worn to the point of not pushing the pump lever enough. i dont know anymore. going to try an electric fuel pump i guess...
Old 10-14-2017, 04:25 PM
  #27  
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I had the fuel pump lobe on my cam wear out. Took a bit to find that out and I had to replace the cam. Since you can feel the pushrod moving the cam is probably OK. To really check it out however you ought to mount a dial indicator.

An especially bizarre possibility is that the pushrod itself has worn down. I have an old one in my junk pile and it measures 5.75". I remember replacing my pushrod with one that had some sort of synthetic material so that the cam itself would be protected. I would guess those are pretty durable but you haven't mentioned inspecting the pushrod in detail as to what it is or how long it is.



Last edited by ignatz; 10-14-2017 at 04:32 PM.
Old 10-14-2017, 05:46 PM
  #28  
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Also, I don't know if it's possible to insert the pump lever in a way that it positions itself ABOVE the rod...so that it will NEVER see any movement from the rod. When you put the pump in, it should NEVER go completely down to the mounting surface on the block without having some compression on that lever....even if it's at the low spot on the cam lobe

If you can seat the pump on that mounting face without any force on that lever, either the pump lever is mispositioned, the cam lobe is worn off, or the pump rod is too short.

If you continue to have problems, I would also go the electric fuel pump route. But, make certain that you put a good pressure regulator in the line and keep it between 5-7 psi.

Last edited by 7T1vette; 10-14-2017 at 05:48 PM.
Old 10-14-2017, 08:22 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Also, I don't know if it's possible to insert the pump lever in a way that it positions itself ABOVE the rod...so that it will NEVER see any movement from the rod. When you put the pump in, it should NEVER go completely down to the mounting surface on the block without having some compression on that lever....even if it's at the low spot on the cam lobe

If you can seat the pump on that mounting face without any force on that lever, either the pump lever is mispositioned, the cam lobe is worn off, or the pump rod is too short.

If you continue to have problems, I would also go the electric fuel pump route. But, make certain that you put a good pressure regulator in the line and keep it between 5-7 psi.

You cannot put the pump in place with the lever on top of the pushrod. Will not work.
Old 10-14-2017, 09:08 PM
  #30  
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ok! we have success! it may have took a little longer to prime than i had hoped, but after recharging the battery, again, i now have fuel going into my carb! it tried to stay running with me pumping the gas, but popped and pooped out. then the battery died again. im getting a new one in the morning as this one has been charged and discharged so many times, and is at least 6 years old, that i think it is giving up the ghost. i had the car backed all the way in against the wall, im hoping the reason for the poop out was because of the "banana in the tailpipe" issue. i have it pulled away from the wall and going to give it one last shot tonight before the new battery. the leads are a bit corroded, and i will clean them off tomorrow, but for now, im getting fuel! huge steep! thank you guys for your input! i'll update this once i get it started and running, i always hated when others leave a thread open ended.
Old 10-15-2017, 02:17 PM
  #31  
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Ok, so now I have fuel, and all I can figure is the carb is gunked up. It is shooting fuel out of the top of the carb. Did some research and most say to pull and clean the needles. Well, I can't on my carb without pulling the float bowl. So I tried, knowing I probably needed new gaskets which I di dnt have. Now it's leaking so I have to rebuild it...what would be a good carb for the car? 73 350, currently has a Holley 7002-1 on it. For what it costs to get it rebuilt, I can put a bit more in and just buy a new one...thoughts?
Old 10-15-2017, 04:49 PM
  #32  
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Holley is probably one of the easiest carbs to rebuild. If you can run a screwdriver, you can rebuild a holley. You're looking at roughly $40 for a kit.

The needle & seat on a your 7002/4165 is accessible without removing anything. Google how to adjust the float level on a Holley.
Old 10-16-2017, 08:34 AM
  #33  
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i did google it, but i think mine is only adjustable from inside the float bowl. to that end, i pulled the carb, just to see what what involved, pretty easy, and pulled the float bowl. it was pretty gross inside, so i cleaned it out, made sure everything was functional to the best of my knowledge, put it back together and reattached it.
so now i have a another problem, at some point, while cranking the car trying to get the fuel pump working, the interior lights stopped working. i checked the fuse fuses, and none of them seem to be popped. the car will crank, and it seems to try to start, but just doesnt make it.
i'm going to owe you all beers once i get this dumb car running again!



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