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Need a little advice. I took my 68 out today for a spin and noticed I had no turn signals. Nothing.
I replaced the flasher on the fuse box and still nothing. I checked the 4-ways. They work fine both on the dash and brighten as they should when I engaged.
Could it be the switch and how much of a PITA is that to replace?
Hi aj,
I believe the flasher on the fuse panel is for the 4-way emergency flashers, the one for the turn signals is behind the right side dash panel.
Regards,
Alan
Hi aj,
I believe the flasher on the fuse panel is for the 4-way emergency flashers, the one for the turn signals is behind the right side dash panel.
Regards,
Alan
Thanks Alan. Funny, I was going to title my thread "Alan Please Help"!
Actually I was not sure which was what and got conflicting info so I changed them both and still nothing. With that said, the auto store gave me 2 identical ones. Are they different?
Hi AJ,
Could be the same.
There should be a page in the owners manual that describes the replacement fuses, bulbs, and flashers.
I'd look but I don't have it with me.
Regards,
Alan
Hi AJ,
Could be the same.
There should be a page in the owners manual that describes the replacement fuses, bulbs, and flashers.
I'd look but I don't have it with me.
Regards,
Alan
Pretty much all it says is that the Hazard is a 6 lamp and the directional is a 3 lamp, whatever that means.
Need a little advice. I took my 68 out today for a spin and noticed I had no turn signals. Nothing.
I replaced the flasher on the fuse box and still nothing. I checked the 4-ways. They work fine both on the dash and brighten as they should when I engaged.
Could it be the switch and how much of a PITA is that to replace?
Any ideas? Hand signals home were embarrassing.
Thanks for any help. John
Check the turn signal switch connector located just above the column behind the dash clipped to a steel support. It's a curved connector with 9 or 10 pins. Make sure all the pins are making good contact and they're clean. If you need to replace the switch it's a P.I.A. but do able. If possible find an NOS switch 5698520 . The best one I ever found was in a SAGINAW box and it was exact. Same color connector, wire label, etc. Repos are around $70.00 but the Chinese plastic doesn't last very long. NOS cost more and are 67/68 only. Good luck
Check the turn signal switch connector located just above the column behind the dash clipped to a steel support. It's a curved connector with 9 or 10 pins. Make sure all the pins are making good contact and they're clean. If you need to replace the switch it's a P.I.A. but do able. If possible find an NOS switch 5698520 . The best one I ever found was in a SAGINAW box and it was exact. Same color connector, wire label, etc. Repos are around $70.00 but the Chinese plastic doesn't last very long. NOS cost more and are 67/68 only. Good luck
Thanks 62.
I heard some scuttlebutt about replacing that being a real pain. I will check the connector. Stay safe, john
Check the turn signal switch connector located just above the column behind the dash clipped to a steel support. It's a curved connector with 9 or 10 pins. Make sure all the pins are making good contact and they're clean. If you need to replace the switch it's a P.I.A. but do able. If possible find an NOS switch 5698520 . The best one I ever found was in a SAGINAW box and it was exact. Same color connector, wire label, etc. Repos are around $70.00 but the Chinese plastic doesn't last very long. NOS cost more and are 67/68 only. Good luck
62, if I need to go that route I will but I found a few NOS switches on Ebay. It is a DELCO and has a different part #. Says 67/68.
62, if I need to go that route I will but I found a few NOS switches on Ebay. It is a DELCO and has a different part #. Says 67/68.
The later Delco switches should work fine unless your looking for an NCRS replacement, then they need some work. The male connector is black on the original and older NOS and there is a white label with black lettering on the originals. The repos and later NOS Delco use a brown connector and the label is red. These are minor differences and don't affect function but they are judged in NCRS. I've done two of these switches in the past year and they're a pain but not that hard. Let me know if you go that route. Rich
The later Delco switches should work fine unless your looking for an NCRS replacement, then they need some work. The male connector is black on the original and older NOS and there is a white label with black lettering on the originals. The repos and later NOS Delco use a brown connector and the label is red. These are minor differences and don't affect function but they are judged in NCRS. I've done two of these switches in the past year and they're a pain but not that hard. Let me know if you go that route. Rich
Thanks Rich. Really appreciate the advice. Have a great weekend!
See if you have 12 volts at "L" (purple wire) on the harmonica connection.
Thanks. Going to crawl (squeeze) under there tomorrow and check that.
I actually misspoke earlier.
My 4 way hazard light ARE working as they should, inside and out. Just no turn signals. Not sure if I mentioned this but prior to them going completely bad, I noticed the week before one of the signals "hesitated", meaning it did not activate right away. If I recall I disengaged, reengaged and it worked.
I did happen to find an NOS switch from a good friend (Saginaw) but hopefully I will not need that. My understanding it you need to disconnect all the wires from the harmonica female end off the switch to feed it through?
Thanks. Going to crawl (squeeze) under there tomorrow and check that.
I actually misspoke earlier.
My 4 way hazard light ARE working as they should, inside and out. Just no turn signals. Not sure if I mentioned this but prior to them going completely bad, I noticed the week before one of the signals "hesitated", meaning it did not activate right away. If I recall I disengaged, reengaged and it worked.
I did happen to find an NOS switch from a good friend (Saginaw) but hopefully I will not need that. My understanding it you need to disconnect all the wires from the harmonica female end off the switch to feed it through?
Thanks
John,
Even with the pin tool removing the pins from the connector is difficult without bending the locking tabs. Many cut the harness mid way to the connector and then solder the wires together (butt splice) after installing the switch. I did it this way and it worked fine. Can't be seen either. Rich
When I replaced the switch on my 68, I used a paper clip to push out the pins and reassembled it without any difficulty. Everything works correctly. Maybe I got lucky as it was my first try. I never thought of cutting it and then soldering it.
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The turn signal switch will work even if it is not wired through the column.
Disconnect the old switch and plug in the replacement to be sure it works.
The turn signal switch will work even if it is not wired through the column.
Disconnect the old switch and plug in the replacement to be sure it works.
Or Check the switch.. use the pdf below, it'll walk you through it.
And if the switch is bad.. use this to replace it... Yes you'll have to un-pin the connector, but that's not really hard. I know this says 1969 and later but it's pretty much the same on your car.
Hey, 68 owners and Ernie. I had the same problem with my brake lights and Ernie helped me trouble shoot the problem. But when I went to change my switch, for the third time in 45 years, I found out that the long metal retainer for the 68 turn signal wires under the 68 only column, will remove very easily!!!
You do not have to pull the wires out of the switch connector to install the switch! The retainer can be gently pried out of the column. I couldn't believe it, after
pulling those wires twice. Lou.