When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I noticed you don't have a choke. Also noticed two throttle cables. Is one for an idle advance? I don't have a choke either and am planning an idle advance. If that's what you have - does it work well?
He only has ONE throttle cable..the lower cable is for the automatic transmission. Looks like a T.V. (throttle valve) cable for an automatic transmission with overdrive.
On the subject of no choke, I have an electric fuel pump so the bowls will be full before I go to start the engine. With the 850 double pumper, it's .031 and .035 nozzles and a 50cc rear pump, one push to the floor should be plenty of fuel to fire it right up. Just keep the idle up with my foot for a couple minutes and it should be ready to go.
I've been looking at the Gates PowerGrip heat shrink hose clamps for a while. I decided to give them a try. They shrink down really tight. I can't budge the hoses in any way. Gates claims they can cure leaks other clamps can't.
I am finishing up the wiring on my 75 Vert. The last thing I am finishing up today is a setup to lower the voltage to the electric fuel pump during idle and cruise. This will keep the fuel pump from running all out all the time.
I am using relays to send power to the pump. One will run the power through a 2 ohm 50 watt resistor. The other relay will bypass the resistor and and send full voltage to the pump. It will be actuated by the original TH400 kickdown switch that is no longer used because I have a 700R4. I have the switch set so it will power the bypass relay at about half throttle.
I also am running through an oil pressure safety switch so that if my engine loses oil pressure or dies the fuel pump is shut off. I am running a wire from the starter solenoid to give current to the system during cranking.
I started doing this with C3's many years back because of the radiator cap being lower than part of the intake and the radiator and heater hoses. I just leave the radiator cap off and start filling through the T adapter in the top heater hose. As soon as the radiator is full up the cap, I put the cap on and fill the funnel with coolant. I then start squeezing the upper radiator hose until the bubbles quit coming and the coolant quits going down in the funnel.
I have never had to add more coolant after using this method and any possibility of an air lock is eliminated. I've never had a leak or failure from one of these adapters either.
Finished my alignment today. It came out pretty good. I Used my lasers, digital levels and the compass on my iPhone to dial it all in. The rear was pretty straight forward. It was easy getting the thrust angle, camber and toe dialed in. I have smart struts with heim ends, makes adjustment a breeze.
The front was a little more work going from one side of the car to the other and then under the car and also under the hood. I didn't get as much caster as I wanted. I was hoping to get 6 degrees, but only ended up with 5 degrees. I set the front camber at negative .25 degrees as well as the rear. If I would kick the camber a little more negative I could get a little more caster. I wish I had spread my shock towers a little while I had it down to the bare frame. They were only sagged in about 1/6" total both sides, so I didn't do it. My VB&P tubular a-arms with offset crossbars helped get the 5 degrees, but I don't think you get as much caster added with them as they claimed. These are the a-arms I beefed up with some triangulation using moly tubing.
I am just going to be driving on the street for now, so I was fairly conservative with my alignment specs.
Front
Toe 1/16" in.
Camber .25 degrees negative.
Caster 5 degrees positive.
Rear
Toe 3/16" In.
Camber .25 degrees negative.
Thrust angle dead on straight with front.
After for to much time my Vette is running again. After getting my car back from body shop jail unfinished, I did a body off on it and beefed up the frame. I have the interior 75% done and it needs the body work and paint finished, but I can drive it now. I haven't done any tuning besides setting the timing so far. The Holley 850 DP I built from parts is working amazingly well for no tuning. This video is just how it ran when I first started it up. Anyone who thinks big carbs don't have good throttle response needs to ride in this car. It's extremely responsive and has no trouble gobbling up everything the highly modified 850 can give it.
I had plans to post a lot more of my work here, but got a little lazy. I'll put more on the thread below later.
Very nice.It must feel good to have it out of jail.
Yes it does, but I would have felt better if he would have finished the job. I have a lot of bodywork to do and I hate bodywork, especially on fiberglass.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
<me
