When to walk away from a purchase?

I'm looking at a vette that apparently has some rust on the drivers side, which you see when you open the door, and right above the plate with paint codes.

2nd issue, is that on passenger door does not align nicely. Far from it.

I have pics of both issues.
Is there someone who has knowledge about these topics?

 

Does this indicate serious bird cage rust...


Should I stay or should I go

 

When you zoom in, the misalignment is very clear. But even on this pic it is noticeable. Can it be fixed easily....

Then there is the misalignment of the passenger door...

 

Wonder if this is damage is from a previous accident? I would walk myself.

 

The car has been inspected in detail. According to the inspection it has not been in an accident.

 

looks like it has been in salt water. I would run not walk !!!!!

 

Might want to move this over to the C3 section.

 

I think this might help, see rule 5:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html

If the body mounts are rusted, or they wont let you remove the kick panels I'd walk away.

As others mentioned, post this in the C3 section, you'll get more responses.
Mike

 

Thanks for letting me know. I will.
When I did a search a pop-up box came up from the Corvette Forum website, where I submitted my question.

 

It's all good. You will get much better answers from the people who know the cars better.

 

 

Hi LH,
Welcome!
First posts!!

When considering buying a 68-72 car the concern about rust in the birdcage (especially in the windshield frame, hinge pillar, and lock pillar) and in the frame (especially in the area of the frame 'kick-up' just forward of the rear wheels, and in the main frame rails forward of the kick-up), should be a PRIMARY concern.

There is enough rust showing in the hinge pillar/windshield post photos you posted that I would be concerned about rust in other areas of the car. Before even beginning to consider buying this car I'd want to see the condition of the lower hinge pillars with the interior kick panels off, and the condition of the lower lock pillars by looking through the small access panels in the forward area of the rear wheel wells.

The variation in the gaps of the right side door to the fender and rear quarter could be caused by serious body problems or just by a poor job of mounting the door… it's impossible to know from just one photo.

I'd want to know how much experience with 68-72 cars the person doing the inspection has before deciding how much faith I'd have in the details of the report.

There is no reason to knowingly get involved in a rusty 68-72 car.
A badly rusted 68-72 can quickly break your spirit and empty your wallet.
Even a 'somewhat' rusty 68-72 should be avoided.

So, there you go!
Regards,
Alan

From the paint code on the Trim Tag it appears this was originally a blue car.

 

In the inimitable words of Nancy Sinatra...."these boots are made for walking...

 

rusty cars do sell, you just have to pay the correct price for them. and know what you are getting into.

 

Unless it's a "negative price car", the kind that would require spending more money than a non rusted would cost.
Some Corvette wouldn't be worth buying even if that's the seller paying you to get rid of it.

 

This one looks rough from what we can see. My guess would be the door issue is due to rotted body mounts. Is the OP willing to tell us the asking price.?

 

Thanks for the feed back. I walked away.
Instead I bought a 1972 with a solid frame and birdcage instead.


To my believe the seller was not aware of significant importance of this type of rust.
As per one comment, there is also a price for rusty corvette's; yes, for the right buyer, who can do the work.


Asking price was 15k. Inspection valued it at up to 13k.
To me rust to the birdcage is not an option.


Glad to have found an alternative "driver" that needs some TLC to the brakes and engine, and other typical Corvette attention points.