1972 windshield removal.
10-07-2017, 07:29 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
1972 windshield removal.
I want to replace my windshield and check the frame. I have done a bunch of windshields. Do I have to remove the wiper door to get it out and install a new one.
10-08-2017, 08:48 AM
#2
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Hi 540,
No!
Have you replaced any 68-72 Corvette windshields?
Regards,
Alan
No!
Have you replaced any 68-72 Corvette windshields?
Regards,
Alan
10-08-2017, 09:58 AM
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
No, I have done a 77 and an 80 and the one on my 67 GTO. I also had a collision shop and replaced a few there.
I did a search and didn't see any 68 to 72 threads.
Last edited by 540 vette; 10-08-2017 at 09:59 AM.
10-08-2017, 11:57 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
might help
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-install.html
Do not be surprised if you have some holes in your windshield frame, a lot do and never know it. I took trim off after studying AIM, used fish fillet knife and guitar string to cut the old seal out and voila out with the glass. Usually the glass breaks at the bottom for me, oh well, coming out to trash anyway. And yes, might could do it with the wiper door in but much easier to pull out wiper door, remove wipers, and open up area as much as possible, so you can POR15 and make sure you get the new glass in the just the right place, IMHO.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by 20mercury; 10-08-2017 at 12:04 PM.
10-08-2017, 12:32 PM
#5
Racer
Reinstalling the wiper door can be a PITA. It was for me with the small bushings. If you do have minor holes then consider cleaning the bad areas with a dremmel wire brush on both sides. My body guy repaired the holes with fiberglass, sanded and painted. Or, liquid metal might work?
10-08-2017, 12:39 PM
#6
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Hi,
" so you can POR15 "
Be careful using POR 15 on the windshield frame.
Depending on what method/material you decide to use to mount the new glass, you may find that it doesn't want to adhere to the POR 15 satisfactorily.
Regards,
Alan
" so you can POR15 "
Be careful using POR 15 on the windshield frame.
Depending on what method/material you decide to use to mount the new glass, you may find that it doesn't want to adhere to the POR 15 satisfactorily.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 10-08-2017 at 01:06 PM.
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20mercury (10-08-2017)
10-08-2017, 12:54 PM
#7
Race Director
Thread Starter
I don't use POR. I will clean the frame and coat it with epoxy.
10-08-2017, 12:59 PM
#8
Race Director
Thread Starter
Reinstalling the wiper door can be a PITA. It was for me with the small bushings. If you do have minor holes then consider cleaning the bad areas with a dremmel wire brush on both sides. My body guy repaired the holes with fiberglass, sanded and painted. Or, liquid metal might work?
I had the inside trim off and there was one spot that was pitted. Inside the kick panels is clean. And I also had the full dash out and the inside firewall has surface rust. The body mount that is on the firewall on the P/S was rusted thru so I made a new one. I am taking the windshield out to check the frame and put a new one in. I like fresh glass.
I use a carpet knife and a heat gun.
Where did you get the spacers and where did you place them on the windshield frame. And did the tape and sealer go over the spacers.
20mercury, you used butyl tape and butyl sealer. What brand or sealer and did you have to cut the end a certain way. Also did you use 3M tape.
Last edited by 540 vette; 10-08-2017 at 01:47 PM.
10-08-2017, 03:46 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
My experience, ...
I will take the wiper door off with the linkage. I just installed it and got it all lined up.
I had the inside trim off and there was one spot that was pitted. Inside the kick panels is clean. And I also had the full dash out and the inside firewall has surface rust. The body mount that is on the firewall on the P/S was rusted thru so I made a new one. I am taking the windshield out to check the frame and put a new one in. I like fresh glass.
I use a carpet knife and a heat gun.
Where did you get the spacers and where did you place them on the windshield frame. And did the tape and sealer go over the spacers.
20mercury, you used butyl tape and butyl sealer. What brand or sealer and did you have to cut the end a certain way. Also did you use 3M tape.
I had the inside trim off and there was one spot that was pitted. Inside the kick panels is clean. And I also had the full dash out and the inside firewall has surface rust. The body mount that is on the firewall on the P/S was rusted thru so I made a new one. I am taking the windshield out to check the frame and put a new one in. I like fresh glass.
I use a carpet knife and a heat gun.
Where did you get the spacers and where did you place them on the windshield frame. And did the tape and sealer go over the spacers.
20mercury, you used butyl tape and butyl sealer. What brand or sealer and did you have to cut the end a certain way. Also did you use 3M tape.
I used only the 3/8" round bead "3M windo weld ribbon sealer" and "cr laurence pinch weld primer for butyl tape".
The link I sent you on the 69 used both (I think) ribbon seal and adhesive which did not make sense to me. I did a lot of looking on the net and concluded just the ribbon sealer/primer would work just fine for me but do your own research and decide.
Setting blocks came with the ribbon kit and I want to remember I cut some pieces of the block rubber, to size needed, to use as spacers. From my experience and looking, modern windshields must not have the same exact curvature as OEM, and so lots of C3's end up with gaps at each upper RH/LH corners, more shimming would not fix mine as the curvature was off, so I made the best compromise fit. On cutting the ends, I used an angled splice joint at the bottom and you can squish the sticky ribbon ends together to seal (even double ribbon at the bottom is not easily seen). I glued the 2 setting blocks, one each side, at the bottom and ditto spacers one each side at the top. I put the spacers on the inside and ran the ribbon on the outside. The 3/8" ribbon was about the right thickness to get the setting height right for me. All very leak free after install and still not leaking yet. However both the 68 convertibles leaked everywhere else, but not at the windshield
Hope this helps!Hope this helps.
10-08-2017, 07:15 PM
#10
Race Director
Thread Starter
Sounds like you have done a number of windshields so you likely know more than me.
I used only the 3/8" round bead "3M windo weld ribbon sealer" and "cr laurence pinch weld primer for butyl tape".
The link I sent you on the 69 used both (I think) ribbon seal and adhesive which did not make sense to me. I did a lot of looking on the net and concluded just the ribbon sealer/primer would work just fine for me but do your own research and decide.
Setting blocks came with the ribbon kit and I want to remember I cut some pieces of the block rubber, to size needed, to use as spacers. From my experience and looking, modern windshields must not have the same exact curvature as OEM, and so lots of C3's end up with gaps at each upper RH/LH corners, more shimming would not fix mine as the curvature was off, so I made the best compromise fit. On cutting the ends, I used an angled splice joint at the bottom and you can squish the sticky ribbon ends together to seal (even double ribbon at the bottom is not easily seen). I glued the 2 setting blocks, one each side, at the bottom and ditto spacers one each side at the top. I put the spacers on the inside and ran the ribbon on the outside. The 3/8" ribbon was about the right thickness to get the setting height right for me. All very leak free after install and still not leaking yet. However both the 68 convertibles leaked everywhere else, but not at the windshield Hope this helps!
Hope this helps.
I used only the 3/8" round bead "3M windo weld ribbon sealer" and "cr laurence pinch weld primer for butyl tape".
The link I sent you on the 69 used both (I think) ribbon seal and adhesive which did not make sense to me. I did a lot of looking on the net and concluded just the ribbon sealer/primer would work just fine for me but do your own research and decide.
Setting blocks came with the ribbon kit and I want to remember I cut some pieces of the block rubber, to size needed, to use as spacers. From my experience and looking, modern windshields must not have the same exact curvature as OEM, and so lots of C3's end up with gaps at each upper RH/LH corners, more shimming would not fix mine as the curvature was off, so I made the best compromise fit. On cutting the ends, I used an angled splice joint at the bottom and you can squish the sticky ribbon ends together to seal (even double ribbon at the bottom is not easily seen). I glued the 2 setting blocks, one each side, at the bottom and ditto spacers one each side at the top. I put the spacers on the inside and ran the ribbon on the outside. The 3/8" ribbon was about the right thickness to get the setting height right for me. All very leak free after install and still not leaking yet. However both the 68 convertibles leaked everywhere else, but not at the windshield
Hope this helps!Hope this helps.
I never used the spacers. How are they used in conjunction with the tape?
10-09-2017, 10:01 AM
#11
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Hi,
I agree with 20m that getting the windshield spaced the proper distance off the windshield frame is critical in then being able the replace the ss trim without there being gaps between the ss trim and the surface of the glass.
Regards,
Alan
I agree with 20m that getting the windshield spaced the proper distance off the windshield frame is critical in then being able the replace the ss trim without there being gaps between the ss trim and the surface of the glass.
Regards,
Alan
10-09-2017, 11:31 AM
#12
Melting Slicks
spacers and setting blocks
The setting blocks come with the 3M ribbon kit and I glued (goop) those in on both sides at the bottom for the new glass to rest on after multible dry fits to make sure I got the glass in the right place. Masking tape across the glass/setting block and then cut at the joint to locate the glass exactly. Cut some other setting blocks and glued to the inside of the windshield frame to make sure the glass did not sink too far below the ss trim or basically set the glass height.
Have not looked at the 69 "ain't she pretty" link or writeup lately, but I think all of this is in there except I want to remember he used ribbon and adhesive. I just used the ribbon.
Hope this helps.