Yeah I have Vizard and Hansen books that are great - there's so much info that I need to read them again before starting the build. I just posted all the books I have been reading for the project on my thread.
You're right about YouTube videos - I think they're polluting my knowledge a little.
Take it easy!

 

Am I the only one that is disappointed that he didn't powder coat his engine block??

 

I don't have a big enough oven, otherwise I would have!

 

Saturday I would spend half of the day with a couple of gentlemen from here on the forum who were picking up some parts that I had for sale. Truly a great time meeting them (names withheld, no idea if they want to be known or not) and shooting the breeze about cars over burgers and beers.

When I got back to my house I had a pleasant surprise that the .001US set of main bearings had shown up so I got to work getting the crank set up.

In the end I needed a mix of standard bearings and some .001US but I ended up in a very happy place. I should have a nicely spinning crank that will also make sure that I have solid oil pressure.

#1 cap: .002 clearance
#2 cap: .0015 clearance
#3 cap: .002 clearance
#4 cap: .0175 clearance
#5 cap: .002 clearance

The crank is nicely tucked in and torqued to spec using an ARP main stud kit. I am now waiting on the correct rod bearings (should be here tomorrow) so that I can continue putting the engine together.

Once that is done I believe that I will have everything that I need to finish the assembly.



Back indoors since it is quite cold again in my garage I started on the steering column disassembly today. I am taking it apart to check for issues and I am glad that I did as the plastic c clip retainer had keeps the large spring from grounding had disintegrated. The pre-previous owner had painted the steering column but it was a pretty poor job with runs and general yuckiness that had to be addressed so I am taking the opportunity to strip the parts to bare metal/plastic and re-painting them to match my interior.

Finally, today (Sunday) I spent just a little bit of time in the shop as I had family commitments but I did start cleaning the cases of my T56 transmission. I also ordered up a rebuild kit for it, figuring that I would rather spend the $ now than have to take it back apart later due to a problem or a leak. That will be coming in a future update.

Stay tuned...

 

 

Dude, the block looks awesome painted, and I can't wait to see what kind of work you are going to do with the welder

 

It, uhm, looks like a 2 bolt main with a crank sitting in it

I will try to get some pics now that I can do some more work out in the garage.

Thanks! Yeah I am pretty happy with the way the block is coming out so far. Hopefully when it is all buttoned together (soon) it should come together nicely. I am also anxiously awaiting my MIG. I have some scrap lying around to practice on but I already have a special project in mind for my first piece. We will see how it comes out before I tell you what it is...just in case it sucks terribly






Well, not exactly a plan. Just fortuitous timing.

I had not one, not two, but THREE visits from FedEx today! You would think that a logistics company could have planned that better but I digress...

It is funny how parts which I ordered as long as two months ago all show up on the exact same day.

The first truck had my cylinder of Argon/CO2 for my MIG welder, the second had some parts from Rock Auto & Jegs, and the third had half of my VB&P order. WIN!

Most importantly, the parts from Rock Auto were the rod bearings that I needed to get back to work on the engine. Jegs dropped off that nice billet aluminum timing cover, my Melling oil pump, pickup, and rod, and a stud kit that I was waiting on. I should now have everything that I need to finish putting the engine together.

VB&P stuff was the rear strud rods, front coil springs, and the rear fiberglass spring. I am AMAZED at how light that transverse spring is. Hard to believe that this 10lb thing will hold up the entire back end of the car. Looking forward to dropping about 100lbs of weight from the back by getting rid of the heavy OEM spring.

I am still waiting on the sway bars, shocks, and assorted hardware from VB&P. I am a little surprised that they did not all arrive together. Hopefully this does not indicate that there is a problem somewhere.



I ordered the springs raw and unpainted since I have something special planned for them =)

Stay tuned!

 

"I can't stand the excitement!"

 

Pictures of the main studs as requested





We are back to below freezing temperatures so I could not spend long in the garage. I did want to get the springs coated though so that they do not flash rust.

I started with my usual phosphate coating





Base coat of powder





This is the same orange which I used on my brake calipers and it is a two stage powder. All that means is that you need to clear coat it to bring out the actual color so once the orange cured it was back to the booth for some clear, then back in the oven yet again.

It sounds like a PITA but the outcome is worth the effort.

 

Beautiful!!!

BTW what phosphate coating do you use?

Thanks

Glenn

 

So powder coating is flexible? I would not have thought so.

 

I use a product from Eastwood called 'Afterblast'. It degreases as well as applies a phosphate coating. You can see it here: https://www.eastwood.com/ew-after-blast.html

Absolutely. Whenever you get a spring from the factory, it is always powder coated.

 

 

When I was thinking about getting some powder coating done , the guy had a large piece of sheet metal on display all coated nice and shiny black and he stood there and bent it back and forth to a 90* angle while we were talking .Amazing stuff IF prepped and baked right.

BTW those springs look so nice .

 

I guess we should have known the spring color would be orange when you mentioned you had something in store for them. They came out really well and the color will match many of the other pieces.

Cool


RVZIO

 

Yep, coating is the way to go if at all possible. A lot more durable and flexible than paint and it will last far longer as well.

And thanks! Yes, I am happy with the way the springs came out.

Yes, I know. Not much of a surprise. That should finish out the orange on the front of the car. The mostly hidden springs and the brake calipers are all that should be visible from the wheel wells in a nice sea of satin black from everything else. I don't want this thing looking like a clown car =)

In the name of symmetry I have to think of what I will do on the back in terms of accent color. The calipers of course but maybe the tubes that connect the rear strut rods? That would be a nice touch if they are the only pieces in orange. Eh, I may just do it all black and leave it.



Anyway, a nice 11" of snow fell last night so I am not sure if I will be able to do much work on the car today. Clearing the driveway will likely be all that my hands and wrists can endure. Boredom may overcome the pain though, we will see.

 

Is media blasting the best way to remove a powder coat? After seeing your springs, I think mine will be getting treated to a red coating - but they came coated silver from Viking.

 

Strut rod tubes & calipers =

 

The best bet would be chemical stripper however the stuff that takes off powder coat is really caustic. Shops use 55 gallon drums of this stuff and they just drop all their metal hooks and such in there and it just melts the coating right off however if you spill it, it will make Chernobyl look like a picnic. Aircraft stripper in the cans does a fair job but you may need longer times and multiple coats. Even with this it is still probably better than media blasting.

If it is just one coat of powder, you can easily powder coat right over it and it will be fine. This would be my suggestion. This is where a quality gun will help as you can adjust the KV to get maximum coverage.

As far as media blasting, you will have to use really aggressive media if the coating on the springs is even halfway decent and even then, it will likely be a royal PITA.




Thanks bud, that is likely what I will do.

 

Great build thread, following and learning.