Found this product on line. It is a Sherwin Williams product and looks to be fairly new to the market. Wanted to see if any members have seen or used this product. It is an industrial coating for steel. A water based primer that makes active rust passive.?
http://sw-commercialpro.com/2017/07/...th-corrverter/

 

I have not used this specific product....but I have used products that convert the rust into what they call a black oxide coating that can be painted on. Some products encapsulate the rust...which seals the rust so it can not grow.

So it all depends what they are doing to the rust to keep it from growing. Because as you already know...all you have to do is remove one of the three things that cause rust to occur and rust can not develop.

DUB

 

and it has Corrverter in it. sounds like it was designed for Corrvettes.

 

I never trust steel unless it's shiny.
They used to sell 'Rust Destoyer' a red oil base primer
you could just prime on rusty areas,
but that's gone because it probably didn't work.
The premise of painting or encapsulating
rust, in my opinion, is a non- starter.

Benjamin Moore sells one, as well.
Nope. A latex product to encapsulate the rust?
On metal stairs? No.

 

It's crap. Tried it. No water based primers/converters work to stop rust. Best to use a 2 part epoxy primer. The worse it smells, the better it works.

 

Rust Destroyer is still available, but does not work either. On their label it says guaranteed to stop rust. Their guarantee? If rust comes back we will give you more Rust Destroyer. Nice.

 

On both counts. If you use those rust killer snake oils, don't be surprised if it comes back to haunt you months/years later.

 

I used some snake oil on my 67 GTO frame 10 years ago. Rust never came back. They work.
And as Dub said you take one of the 3 ingredients of rust away and it will stop.

 

1) Oxygen
2) Moisture
3) Remove the metal??????????

Iron and oxygen have opposite charges so they seek out each other to combine. When they combine, the iron loses electrons to oxygen atoms. This is called oxidation and when it happens it produces a chemical reaction forming Fe203 Iron Oxide otherwise known as Ferric Oxide, or more commonly known as rust.

 

My go to for rust is called Ospho ! It can be bought at almost any automotive paint supplier!

Another good remedy is Por 15 !

Next choice is to cut the metal out that is bad and replace with new !

If it's just surface rust I'm not going to replace it I'm going to use something I know that works after having used it for years like Ospho!

If I'm doing a frame it's gonna get Por 15 or powder coated after media blasting!

 

How do you stop the frame from rusting from the inside out?
I can't see how media blasting is going to get in there.

 

Some places have a large enough tank that they can dip a frame in a rust removing solution (acid of some type?). I know one Forum member that did that and then had his frame dipped again in a galvanizing solution which protected both inside and outside surfaces - I thought that was a great idea.

There are products you can buy to spray inside an untreated frame box section from places like Eastwood. I've used a similar spray on areas I couldn't get into on my Eagle, some sort of soft wax that sinks into the rust that won't allow water to get to it. After a lot of thinking about these types of products I've decided what I think is going to work very well on rusty surfaces you can't easily access is fiberglass resin without any hardener in it - it will creep, prevent water from coming into contact with the metal, won't wash away with repeated water contact, and won't harden so much that it will crack.

 

By doing much like what Priya took the time to type out.


****EDIT****

I agree with the products of the wax design.

But I am NOT on board with using fiberglass resin that has not been activated. It seems to make sense...but I am just not sure about that. There are products that can be thinned out to 'creep' and fill voids and may also skin over and still stay flexible and not remain tacky forever.

I guess it depends on the person doing it

DUB

 

I do also know how/why rust develops. And YES...if needed...remove the metal. Thus by removing the rusted metal...it then stops being a factor in that particular area. I guess it all depends on how a person wants to look at it.

I know this may seem to be ridiculous...but in some cases...cutting out very cancerous steel is what is needed and put fresh metal in its place and then protect it.

I wrote it like that so another forum member would not come in and ask about what you do with a very badly rusted piece of metal. But instead.....I got you commenting as how you did. I can not win for loosing. sometimes and I see I need to cover each and every possible scenario.

I can say I have used RUST MORT and the rust converter from Mar-Hyde and they both have not seemed to fail as of yet. I have gotten in the practice whenever possible to use the POR-15 and follow the process of prepping the area correctly prior to applying it. So far...it also seems to not be failing.

I can say that using an epoxy primer may seem to be a way that many choose...BUT..I can say that this type of primer can fail and cause the rust to come back. So much depends on how clean the metal is prior to applying it. And IF the epoxy primer is actually going to be top coated with another paint....and not left as a stand alone product with NO topcoating.

And just so some of you do not come back in and blast me to death for the last paragraph. A lot depends on how the car is stored, washed or left out in the environment. So a car left in the garage 6 months out of the year ...or ONLY driven on days where it is not raining is really not a good example of the epoxy being exposed to the elements.

DUB

 

Agreed about the epoxy primer. It must be top coated.

 

Thanks for taking the time to respond. Sounds like we all agree, clean metal is best. I wish I could have had my frame dipped, but time and money took that option away. My frame is clean, but there are areas of concern where products like these snake oils could be beneficial. Inside the frame rails, inside of the hinge pillars and the frame pockets at the kick ups.
Agree need to remove the water factor. That won't be a problem. This Vette won't see any .
Priya, thanks for the tip. Resin without hardener.

 

Yes, whenever you can remove the rust that's best.