When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Soak in a tub of very hot water, twist it back to straight while submerged. Then right away dunk in to a tub of cold water while holding the twist while its cooling. Works for any plastic.
Soak in a tub of very hot water, twist it back to straight while submerged. Then right away dunk in to a tub of cold water while holding the twist while its cooling. Works for any plastic.
Yes, I would guess the adhesive used in the vinyl-to-plastic bond should remain unaffected with just hot water, but I just don't know for sure. I understand and like the concept CVO.
Wow, what vendor sold that? If it's plastic i would use a heat gun and go slow. Personally, I would send it back.
Tewski,
This afternoon by email, I did try to get an answer on a fix from Knoch directly, but perhaps they never got a chance to answer it.
And to their defense, I bought it last summer, just getting to the installation today. And the problem with that: In the front, one side of the console is longer than the other, so it twists when sitting on an even surface. Add 5-6 months and Summer temperatures, this is what happens. Now, I never checked for a warped condition when it arrived, but why should I, since I never installed one before and ignorant of any possible flaws. Plus it was drop shipped from Knoch; fresh as could be and looked great.
Yeah, I got a heat gun. But .....
You mean like.................................... ..
In my case, since it's a resto-mod, I'm concerned with a sturdy inside/original looking "outside".
I fabricated a flat-metal aluminum frame to fit inside the console while keeping it "straight" on the outside..........
Then I filled in the spots that the mice had chewed away.......
BUT your problem isn't the same. I would use some form of heat as the members advised, and I would "bend" the plastic frame slightly more than needed so that over a week's time the frame would gradually settle to a "level" position.
You mean like.................................... ..
In my case, since it's a resto-mod, I'm concerned with a sturdy inside/original looking "outside".
I fabricated a flat-metal aluminum frame to fit inside the console while keeping it "straight" on the outside..........
Then I filled in the spots that the mice had chewed away.......
BUT your problem isn't the same. I would use some form of heat as the members advised, and I would "bend" the plastic frame slightly more than needed so that over a week's time the frame would gradually settle to a "level" position.
Really nice work DG! I know I'm gonna miss that real stitching, and never considered what you've succeeded in doing here. Fantastic!
Hi Steve,
How firmly is it 'locked' into that shape?
If you install the plate that the heater control mounts to and the shift plate does that do anything to help 'guide' the console into the proper shape across it's top?
?
Regards,
Alan
Hi Steve,
How firmly is it 'locked' into that shape?
If you install the plate that the heater control mounts to and the shift plate does that do anything to help 'guide' the console into the proper shape across it's top?
?
Regards,
Alan
Hi Alan,
It's stiff! Not 16-ply truck tire stiff, but it takes considerable force to straighten, and on release it returns immediately to it's warped position. The under-plate support frame doesn't fit well in it's place, and the top plate doesn't even come close to fitting in place. She's warped outta place bad. I believe if the console IS straightened out, both will fit and all will be well.
Thanks for the photos Alan.
I've never seen on twisted like that but I think you can install it. You'd have to use a long awe to guide to the front mounting hole and that should get in the correct position. I'm not sure, but that will probably allow the heater plate to sit in there correctly.
When you install it, wrap a 2x4 with a cloth, place it on the back of the console and use the parking brake gear as leverage for a pry bar. We do this with all the shift consoles in the shop and you'll usually need a good push forward to get it in place. Once it's been in there a while it'll just fall back in after you take it out. For you, you may need to get a friend to help you so someone can push the rear and you can use the awe to guide it to the hole.
I've never seen on twisted like that but I think you can install it. You'd have to use a long awe to guide to the front mounting hole and that should get in the correct position. I'm not sure, but that will probably allow the heater plate to sit in there correctly.
When you install it, wrap a 2x4 with a cloth, place it on the back of the console and use the parking brake gear as leverage for a pry bar. We do this with all the shift consoles in the shop and you'll usually need a good push forward to get it in place. Once it's been in there a while it'll just fall back in after you take it out. For you, you may need to get a friend to help you so someone can push the rear and you can use the awe to guide it to the hole.
Here is a CA one we just installed in a 76.
Showoff!
Seriously, a super fine job there. I'd post that too!
I just got it to straighten out.
I wasn't sure how to go about it, so I took the least invasive and easiest approach first. I set it out in the sun upside down. Was just under 80 here today, so in the sun it was warmer. After a few hours of that I picked it up, twisted it back to it's proper shape by hand in the shade, and noticed it helped some. Not a lot, but some.
So I figured Tewski was right on; I took a heat gun to the underside corners where the sides meet the top surfaces, and corrected the warp even more by heating (not much), bending, and then cooling while holding it bent. Came out well. Picture to follow.
Thanks Fran.
When I first attempted to set it in, the Shift Panel wouldn't even FIT! And neither would that smaller A/C controller frame that sits underneath. So I was, to say the least, concerned. You'll notice now that I have it sitting with the right side elevated, so as to aid in keeping it straight and level.
Now to re-finish the Shift Plate. Would like to powder coat it a satin black, but not lose the chrome edge trim.
You CANNOT powdercoat that part. It is pot metal and will soften and melt at less than 400*F. Just do what works very well: strip all old paint off with a paste stripper; clean/dry the part; paint it with two light/covering coats of satin black paint; and shave the soft paint off the chrome edges after about 20 minutes.
Besides, powdercoat is thick and will look like he!! on that part.
Just looking for something more durable than coverage from a rattle-can.
Thanks.
Steve
Don't forget, when you put it in use the wrapped board and a pry bar.. it helps a ton for getting the console forward enough to get the screws in place. It makes the job easier....
The picture above is from a 76 that the customer wanted to change the interior color from the dark to the 72 red color... Most of the interior was custom made (seats, lower pads). The door panels and upper pad are the same.
Seriously... just under 80 degree's ....
It was 10 here yesterday, it's 8 degree's right now
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Jan 5, 2018 at 09:24 AM.
.... 