I just purchased 4 red line tires for diamondback classic at a cost of over $1100 with shipping. Based on the article written by http://www.shredjesse.com/1968-chevy...ck-or-modified I should be able WITHOUT any modifications put a 235/60/15 on my 68 427 coupe without any altercations. I have the correct 7 inch wheels. This article can be found on many corvetteforum post, so I took it for gospel. With the BFG 235/60/15 the right rear tire rubs the parking brake bracket. What is strange, it does not on the left side, but on the right side it is not even close. The bracket would need to be cut off about 1/4 of an inch for it not to touch. This makes me absolutely sick. Any suggestions, without cutting the bracket off and relocating to the top of the arm? Tires are made to order, so I cannot return.

 

I feel for you....When I was looking to put a new set on my 72 I saw lots of post where others had put wider tires than stock with no rubbing issues.....I didn't want to take any chances so I went with 225/70R15 which is closest to the original size and let me tell you if they were any wider at all they would hit the parking brake bracket.

At least the fix is pretty simple.

Good luck
Brian

 

Rookie here: You can do it the hard way or the easy way.

First the Easy Way........ cut off the offending bracket and remove enough metal so the bracket will cause no problems after being rewelded, EVEN when the tire goes FLAT.

Hard way: Make sure the offending trailing ARM isn't bent causing the bracket to rum the tire.
Make sure there isn't an abnormal stack of shims on one side of the trailing arm where it fits in the pocket compared to the other trailing arm (rare problem, but it can happen).
Make sure and measure the distance from the inner ridge of the wheel rim to the trailing arm. Is the measurement identical/nearly identical on both rim measurements....if NO, find out "Why"?

Those are just a few suggestions (problems I have discovered on my project car ("Cause all Corvettes weren't built by the same technician")

Annnnd not all cars were owned by "Bubba". (And as Forum Member Bats stated........."Bubba can be your best friend or your worst enemy". BFF-Bubba can take a coat hanger and fix your car so that it will finish that 500 mile road trip your are enjoying......or BAD-Bubba can be the reason your car broke in the middle of your road trip))

I think you can solve the problem with the new tires!

 

at that price for tires a couple wheel spacers would be easiest.

 

As a Mechanical Engineer I'm not entirely in love with wheel spacers.
However in this case THIS is what I'd recommend. Perhaps a 1/2 inch spacer on the back.

1. Only the most eagle eyed will see that the track is wider.
2. You can do a fit up quite easily and then get four heavy buddies into the back (or equivalent) to fully depress the springs for REAL WORLD fitment.
3. You can easily get longer studs and install.
4. If you like what is happening then you may want to consider JB welding the spacer to the hub.

My problem with wheel spacers is they CAN get lose. {"singing...It's a fine time to leave me loose wheel"}
You then periodically re-torque.

Your wheel bearings will essentially not be affected by the change in apparent offset.

Good luck! UnckaHal

 

The real question is why the bracket is rubbing when it should not. Perhaps a picture would be in order.

 

Hi L-46 m,

"It's a fine time to leave me loose wheel"}"

I had to read it twice in order to get the FULL enjoyment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Regards,
Alan

 

Hi 68,
I understand what you were promised!!!

Could part/all of this problem be the 7" wheel.?
Does that width wheel allow the sidewall to balloon out a little more?
I know it's only on the right side.... but maybe you're lucky on the left side?
???
Regards,
Alan

 

put 8" 69 rim width on. ... and problem is solved, and fits your tire better.

 

i don't know if i would go a full 1/2 inch.
it is curious how only one side is affected.
me, i would split whatever difference between bending, grinding the
bad cable bracket and the spacer.

 

Shouldn't it be symmetrical side to side? Did you try swapping the rear wheels to see if the problem moves to the other side? Could be the wheel. Or trailing arm/shims.

 

Just a further Note...the size of the rim is only HALF the problem...it's the offset that is the posters problem...he needs to move the wheel outward .375">.500"

'Usually' Corvette wheels have ZERO offset....so an 8" rim on a car that also has a zero offset means the wheel 'rim' moves INWARD .500" (as well as outward .500"

Not going to work.

 

I also have 8" wide rims on my '68 which could have provided needed clearance, but I would try to solve the original bracket problem first before buying new rims(unless the rims were bent also!)

I would think 1/4" of clearance between the E.B. bracket and the "rubber" would be plenty, and much easier to accomplish. Even with a flat tire I did not get bracket rub on my bracket/tire clearance.

 

Rookie question: Even though the 8" rim causes the tire wall to be visibly "flatter" it still won't help E.B. bracket clearance..."Just a little.....like 1/4" ?

 

different offset on 68-69 rim.
you can get by with 1/8" clearance, check weight weight clearance also.
assuming no bent components,
no the only way to adjust side to side gap is with movement of body mounts.

 

I feel your pain. When I was looking for a tire/wheel combo for my 69, I asked questions all over several forums, wore out a tape measure, 3 rulers and a yardstick, and after all of that I ended up making a wild a** guess. 295/40x17's on a 17x9 wheel with 5" backspace. And still needed a 3/8 spacer to clear the parking brake cable.

 

I agree with those who say "why?" if it rubs on one side, but not the other, I would not suspect the wheels or tires. Although a good point is made if the tires belong on an 8" rim, they would puff out more on a 7". I think DG is on to something..... I`d check suspension mounts & measurements, trailing arm shims, etc. BEFORE I just started cutting brackets.

 

I will post a picture later this evening.

 

The car is in the process of a body-off restoration. The frame was powder coated along with the a-arms, trailing arms, drive shafts, and other parts. The shims were counted before the car was disassembled and I placed the same amount of shims back on the car when I started putting it back together.

 

Hello, not sure how relative this is and I don't mean to hijack your thread, but My 1972 had old Dunlop P235/70R15 on the rear and P225/70R15 in the front on the original 8 in rims. I had no issues of any type. However I decided to see if the "235"s would fit in the front and I instantly started to see some rubbing in a few areas. Had to move them back. I am a complete newbie but these are custom built fiberglass bodies so I would assume there will be some discrepancies than a steel bodied car. Mine were mostly on the fender wells. So I would not take the results of anyone as a guarantee that it wilt fit or work on your car. Ike