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Time to buy a reproduction one. Yours may be able to be welded, but if this is not a concours or frame off reproduction, then store the old one for future use, and get a replacement one.
Time to buy a reproduction one. Yours may be able to be welded, but if this is not a concours or frame off reproduction, then store the old one for future use, and get a replacement one.
kdf
Back in the day "V-ing" a crack......preheating the cast part.....then using a stick welding rod of the same material to weld the V closed....then slowly bringing the part down to room temperature was a sure-cure.
That crack's gotten pretty big Jeff. You now have a great excuse to tell the wife it's time to get a set of headers!
After all, they flow better and are soooo much cooler. A lot of people know this, which is why the market is full of these ram horns.
That crack's gotten pretty big Jeff. You now have a great excuse to tell the wife it's time to get a set of headers!
After all, they flow better and are soooo much cooler. A lot of people know this, which is why the market is full of these ram horns.
No doubt in my mind that the heat riser valve on the outlet of that manifold was stuck in the 'closed' position. Driving it that way builds up IMMENSE heat. I had one that did so and it 'ballooned' the metal out (bulging) which meant it was close to melting temps for cast iron!
You might be able to repair it with brazing (can't weld it); but that depends on the width of the crack and your welder's skills.
It would be best to find a replacement.
And make sure that heat riser valve is working properly...or just cut the valve plate off the shaft and NEVER worry about it again.
That crack's gotten pretty big Jeff. You now have a great excuse to tell the wife it's time to get a set of headers!
After all, they flow better and are soooo much cooler. A lot of people know this, which is why the market is full of these ram horns.
Good luck.
Steve
yes that thought crossed my mind... but I don’t want the expense of redo-ing the rest of the exhaust system piping.
No doubt in my mind that the heat riser valve on the outlet of that manifold was stuck in the 'closed' position. Driving it that way builds up IMMENSE heat. I had one that did so and it 'ballooned' the metal out (bulging) which meant it was close to melting temps for cast iron!
You might be able to repair it with brazing (can't weld it); but that depends on the width of the crack and your welder's skills.
It would be best to find a replacement.
And make sure that heat riser valve is working properly...or just cut the valve plate off the shaft and NEVER worry about it again.
just before Christmas I removed the heat riser and now just have the big spacer.... but yeah... it didn’t look like the heat riser was moving very well.
03-24-2018, 05:42 PM
Exhaust manifold crack
Good excuse to get a set of side pipes!
