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I'm curious whether there are any cheapish aerosol solutions for rust remediation that work with a single application (a decent primer / top coat / rust-inhibitor in one product).
I'm hoping that I can just use a die grinder wire brush and remove the majority of the rust and then find a good aerosol product that doesn't completely break the bank that can do basic rust treatment/inhibition and top coat in one go.
OR I'd be willing to do 2 coats after abrasive/physical removal-
1. Rust Treatment+Inhibitor Primer Layer
2. Top coat
The Eastwood system looks great, but super expensive and 3 step is just too much labor.
Does anyone have any rest treatment+prevention solutions that they really like?
(Easy / Quick application that doesn't require a paint sprayer and that doesn't break the bank.)
Depending on the type of rust you might take a look at Eastwood’s products - I like their Rust Encapsulator for minor stuff and Rust Converter for major stuff. It’s super easy to brush or spray on the Rust Encapsulator.
I just did the rear half of my frame. I wire wheeled as much of the rust off as I could. Then I sprayed it with Rustoleum flat black rust converter. I then cleaned the inside of the frame as best I could and bought a garden sprayer and bought a quart of Rustoleum thinned it with acetone and then sprayed the inside of the frame until it ran out the holes in the frame. I got it the best I could.
I then put a thick coat of primer on the frame and then sanded with 220 to get rid of as many imperfections as I could recoated with primer then sprayed it with Krylon semi flat black. It came out pretty nice.
The frame is pretty solid with just some small rust thru holes in where the trailing arms went. I welded those up and ground them down and they came out great. Brushed epoxy in those areas and then Krylon.
I don't like Por 15.
If its parts then try 'Evapo Rust'. Parts need to soak and it takes about 24 hours
Good tip! I'll look into it. The little parts are definitely the most annoying.
Example: I wanted to replace the rusty muffler hanger screws; we've got a GREAT local hardware store chain called McLendons, and although they have a bunch of GM automotive screws, they did not have anything in the right size that also had the right threads. Wire brushing a bunch of small parts is crazy annoying.
I just did the rear half of my frame. I wire wheeled as much of the rust off as I could. Then I sprayed it with Rustoleum flat black rust converter. I then cleaned the inside of the frame as best I could and bought a garden sprayer and bought a quart of Rustoleum thinned it with acetone and then sprayed the inside of the frame until it ran out the holes in the frame. I got it the best I could.
I then put a thick coat of primer on the frame and then sanded with 220 to get rid of as many imperfections as I could recoated with primer then sprayed it with Krylon semi flat black. It came out pretty nice.
The frame is pretty solid with just some small rust thru holes in where the trailing arms went. I welded those up and ground them down and they came out great. Brushed epoxy in those areas and then Krylon.
I don't like Por 15.
That's EXACTLY what I did for everything from the radiator forward: wire brush (powered), rustoleum rust converter, then Krylon or Rustoleum Semi-Flat black. I'm just trying to see if there's anything better.
I've been getting to know the Eastwood product line but it's HUGE and overwhelming and their instructions involve 35 steps and 14 different Eastwood rust-related products being required.
I still like the idea of powered wire brush, then you're supposed to have to clean off all the rust dust before using a rust converter, then the rust converter.
I'm now looking to attack everything from the differential back while I have the gas tank and rear spring out.
-I'm a bit confused at the difference between a Rust Encapsulator vs. a Rust Converter, though...
Here's my plan, please critique:
1. Wire brush everything I can touch
2. Clean
3. Rust Converter Spray Cans ($14 a can- I'm going to pickup 3)
4. For inside the frame, these magic guys ($20 / can hopefully only need 2 for the diff and back) https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-in...z-aerosol.html -black version
5. Semi-gloss top coat
From: PHOENIX, AZ Yes, it's true. You are a good woman. Then again, you may be the Antichrist.
Originally Posted by NewbVetteGuy
Wire brushing a bunch of small parts is crazy annoying.
I think you own the wrong generation of Corvette.
I've worn out multiple brass wire wheels. The wires break off and fling all over the garage. I find them when I'm crawling around under the car...usually when they poke through my clothes and embed themselves in my skin.
When it comes right down to it rust can never be stopped IMO. You can clean it up and make it look pretty but at some point it will come back. The metals used have impurities in them and once contaminated will always revert to rust. That's not to say that sandblasting, cleaning well with a chemical and coats of a paint or converter will not ensure it looks nice for years. So ultimately whichever product you use in lets say 7-10 years you will be doing it over or another spot. You have to remember we are talking about 50 year old cars with bottoms that are subject to all kinds of crap!
2 Step Rust Remediation?
