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Old Mar 31, 2018 | 12:40 AM
  #21  
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Bob, I have a LS3 crate motor 525 HP version





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Old Mar 31, 2018 | 02:16 AM
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That looks excelent.
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Old Mar 31, 2018 | 02:22 AM
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I’m thinking you would have got the trans extension housing of shiftworks did you get their 4 speed shifter as well?
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Old Mar 31, 2018 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim 1973
Bob, I have a LS3 crate motor 525 HP version





Nice choice! Exact same motor I bought. The cam they put in these engines sound pretty nasty (in a good way) and I'm wanting to hear it through the side exhaust.
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Old Mar 31, 2018 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bfit
I’m thinking you would have got the trans extension housing of shiftworks did you get their 4 speed shifter as well?
Yes I did get the tailshaft from shiftworks.. no on a 4 speed lol
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Old Mar 31, 2018 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bluegtp
Nice choice! Exact same motor I bought. The cam they put in these engines sound pretty nasty (in a good way) and I'm wanting to hear it through the side exhaust.
here is a link when I first started mine, once I get it tuned I'll do a new one..

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCd8...yLzB3JpcXI-f8w
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Tim 1973
here is a link when I first started mine, once I get it tuned I'll do a new one..

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCd8...yLzB3JpcXI-f8w
Sounds good! Sorry to divert the subject but what inserts are you running in the pipes?

Looks like you have stuff setup temporarily but you'll probably need some 90s on your trans. cooler lines coming out on the passenger side when the body goes back on. It's a pretty tight fit in the tunnel around those lines.

Ryan
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 12:01 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by bfit
I’m thinking you would have got the trans extension housing of shiftworks did you get their 4 speed shifter as well?







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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 12:12 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bluegtp
Sounds good! Sorry to divert the subject but what inserts are you running in the pipes?

Looks like you have stuff setup temporarily but you'll probably need some 90s on your trans. cooler lines coming out on the passenger side when the body goes back on. It's a pretty tight fit in the tunnel around those lines.

Ryan
Yes I will need to modify the oil lines before I put the body back on. I have some hard Aluminum line I might use just not sure yet.

I'm running Vette Pack from

www.classicchambered.com/classic/products.html

Any subject on a LS swap is OK here.

Thanks
Tim
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim 1973
Yes I will need to modify the oil lines before I put the body back on. I have some hard Aluminum line I might use just not sure yet.

I'm running Vette Pack from

www.classicchambered.com/classic/products.html

Any subject on a LS swap is OK here.

Thanks
Tim
I'd have done the same thing for temp connections.....I ended up using black braided an lines upfront to my cooler. Did my best to hide them and keep stuff clean. I can post a pic of the routing if you need.

I have the same inserts so that'll give me a good idea! Thanks.
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Old Apr 1, 2018 | 05:51 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bluegtp
I'd have done the same thing for temp connections.....I ended up using black braided an lines upfront to my cooler. Did my best to hide them and keep stuff clean. I can post a pic of the routing if you need.

I have the same inserts so that'll give me a good idea! Thanks.
I would like to see the pictures....

Thanks
Tim
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 04:51 AM
  #32  
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Room around trans is minimal
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Old Apr 2, 2018 | 12:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by bfit
Room around trans is minimal
I would be interested in seeing where you attached the lines to the frame and how you routed the lines to the front of the Radiator. I'm sure I will need to wait until the body is back on to make the lines..

Thanks

Tim
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 02:23 AM
  #34  
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I haven't got too that part as yet. I have a 70 BB as well which have been taking up most of my time.
I intend on putting the oil cooler in the area behind the RH side wheel well and vent out through the guard cut out.
I have the ECM in the other guard,
I did buy a DeWitt radiator with the inbuilt cooler but I most likely wont use it.

Last edited by bfit; Apr 3, 2018 at 02:58 AM.
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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 02:48 PM
  #35  
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I like the looks of fiberglassing the hole closed. I made a bonding strip and the fill peice. I have bonded the bonding strip once dried I will bond the fill fiberglass. When I started this project I purchased some flat fiberglass.




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Old Apr 3, 2018 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim 1973
I would like to see the pictures....

Thanks
Tim
Here ya go. Best routing pics I could find with the pics I already have uploaded. If you need something specific just let me know. Dipstick was a little tricky. I ended up buying a 36" lokar and took apart to shorten it.



I tried to keep the hoses away from the headers so they route with my harness under the ac hoses to the fender area and then along the fender to my cooler up front. You can see it along the right side with the harness and coming out from my fusebox mounting plate on the left.


It's in the background between the air compr. and cai box.

Drilled a few holes and passes through the top of the inner fender the into the front area.


Last edited by bluegtp; Apr 3, 2018 at 11:07 PM.
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 07:47 AM
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Here are some pictures of my creation.
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Old Apr 6, 2018 | 06:56 PM
  #38  
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Thanks For the Pictures....
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 12:33 AM
  #39  
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Thought I would share on how I dealt with the heater connections on the water pump. I have see them a few different ways. As most do I removed, tapped and plunged the org connections. I then drilled to match the aluminium bungs and welded them in.. As the material is thin on the water pump This gives you a strong and leak proof connection. It also puts the water coming in and out at the same place as the original.











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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 08:15 PM
  #40  
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Out working on engine bay, got it fiberglassed, got the ac unit testfited, cut hole for electronics to mount inside.
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