Slight Steering Pull
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 186
Likes: 6
From: Lebanon Junction KY
Slight Steering Pull
Haven't been here for awhile, got the 73 back together after 5 years and have put about 500 miles on it so far.
All the steering components were changed. The alignment has been done twice now. The issue is a slight pull when you are going down a straight smooth road, pulls left. Not sudden, just a gradual left drift when you let go of the wheel. It is enough pull for the car to climb the crest of the road and continue left.
The brakes seem to all be the same temp, have switched tires from side to side, The car drives well same effort turning right as left. The wheel doesn't take off on its own like when a control valve isn't balanced.
Is it possible that the control valve is out of adjustment or something? I am getting ready to go and find a nice quiet straight stretch of road, get up to speed and carefully turn the car off to stop to PS from working, but before I do that I would appreciate any input you might have.
Thanks
Mark Potter
All the steering components were changed. The alignment has been done twice now. The issue is a slight pull when you are going down a straight smooth road, pulls left. Not sudden, just a gradual left drift when you let go of the wheel. It is enough pull for the car to climb the crest of the road and continue left.
The brakes seem to all be the same temp, have switched tires from side to side, The car drives well same effort turning right as left. The wheel doesn't take off on its own like when a control valve isn't balanced.
Is it possible that the control valve is out of adjustment or something? I am getting ready to go and find a nice quiet straight stretch of road, get up to speed and carefully turn the car off to stop to PS from working, but before I do that I would appreciate any input you might have.
Thanks
Mark Potter
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
Two possible issues:
1. The steering control valve on your P/S might need to be "centered". There is an easy procedure for that. If not centered, you will get a slight drift in one direction. (Ask if you need the procedure.)
2. Tie-rod adjustment error can also cause what you are getting. Some alignment mechanics dial-in some compensation for 'crowned' roads so that you don't have to steer a bit to the left, just to keep the car going straight; others set the car for a flat road. You might ask how your car was adjusted.
The alignment may have been done "by the book", but may not have been done as these smaller cars (with big wide tires) require for proper tracking. Front tires need to have 3/32" to 5/32" TOE-IN so that the tires will not "hunt". This isn't the symptom you described, but if you have more work done by the alignment shop, you should ask if they set the toe-in needed by these cars.
1. The steering control valve on your P/S might need to be "centered". There is an easy procedure for that. If not centered, you will get a slight drift in one direction. (Ask if you need the procedure.)
2. Tie-rod adjustment error can also cause what you are getting. Some alignment mechanics dial-in some compensation for 'crowned' roads so that you don't have to steer a bit to the left, just to keep the car going straight; others set the car for a flat road. You might ask how your car was adjusted.
The alignment may have been done "by the book", but may not have been done as these smaller cars (with big wide tires) require for proper tracking. Front tires need to have 3/32" to 5/32" TOE-IN so that the tires will not "hunt". This isn't the symptom you described, but if you have more work done by the alignment shop, you should ask if they set the toe-in needed by these cars.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Apr 6, 2018 at 01:28 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,347
Likes: 1,576
From: los altos hills california
Did the shop give you a printout of their settings? Differences in caster can give the behavior you are seeing. Also you don't think it is the control valve but aren't sure. Putting the car up on a jack stand and turning the motor on will tell you for sure if it is balanced.
If you eliminate the control valve and are willing to play with the shims a bit, you may be able to solve this that way. Note I wrote in my shop manual years ago says if it pulls left, transfer a 1/32" shim from front to rear on the left side. It's been a while and somebody may call me on this but that was my note at the time.
It's easy to get back to where you were by moving the shim back with no harm done to the shop's settings.
If you eliminate the control valve and are willing to play with the shims a bit, you may be able to solve this that way. Note I wrote in my shop manual years ago says if it pulls left, transfer a 1/32" shim from front to rear on the left side. It's been a while and somebody may call me on this but that was my note at the time.
It's easy to get back to where you were by moving the shim back with no harm done to the shop's settings.
Last edited by ignatz; Apr 6, 2018 at 07:43 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 186
Likes: 6
From: Lebanon Junction KY
Two possible issues:
1. The steering control valve on your P/S might need to be "centered". There is an easy procedure for that. If not centered, you will get a slight drift in one direction. (Ask if you need the procedure.)
2. Tie-rod adjustment error can also cause what you are getting. Some alignment mechanics dial-in some compensation for 'crowned' roads so that you don't have to steer a bit to the left, just to keep the car going straight; others set the car for a flat road. You might ask how your car was adjusted.
The alignment may have been done "by the book", but may not have been done as these smaller cars (with big wide tires) require for proper tracking. Front tires need to have 3/32" to 5/32" TOE-IN so that the tires will not "hunt". This isn't the symptom you described, but if you have more work done by the alignment shop, you should ask if they set the toe-in needed by these cars.
1. The steering control valve on your P/S might need to be "centered". There is an easy procedure for that. If not centered, you will get a slight drift in one direction. (Ask if you need the procedure.)
2. Tie-rod adjustment error can also cause what you are getting. Some alignment mechanics dial-in some compensation for 'crowned' roads so that you don't have to steer a bit to the left, just to keep the car going straight; others set the car for a flat road. You might ask how your car was adjusted.
The alignment may have been done "by the book", but may not have been done as these smaller cars (with big wide tires) require for proper tracking. Front tires need to have 3/32" to 5/32" TOE-IN so that the tires will not "hunt". This isn't the symptom you described, but if you have more work done by the alignment shop, you should ask if they set the toe-in needed by these cars.
Thanks
Mark
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
As ignatz wrote in prior post, raise front wheels off floor; remove the left front wheel; remove the end cap off the control valve. Start engine, then center steering wheel and release it. If it drifts off to one side, the control valve needs to be adjusted.
Adjustment procedure: [use 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar with socket to fit adjustment nut on control valve]
1. Turn nut so that the front wheels do not drift in either direction;
2. Now, turn the nut CW so that there is slight drift, then turn it in opposite direction until wheel drift is stopped. Mark the orientation of the breaker bar. (Do not reverse direction of your wrench during this step.)
3. Turn the nut CCW so that there is slight drift, then turn it in opposite direction until wheel drift is stopped. Mark the orientation of the breaker bar again.
4. Find the mid-point between the two orientation marks you made in steps #2 & #3, and turn the nut to that position with your wrench.
This should be the "sweet spot" in the control valve where there is no bias causing the wheels to drift in either direction.
5. Turn off ignition, reinstall control valve end cap, install wheel, and lower car to floor.
That's it.
Adjustment procedure: [use 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar with socket to fit adjustment nut on control valve]
1. Turn nut so that the front wheels do not drift in either direction;
2. Now, turn the nut CW so that there is slight drift, then turn it in opposite direction until wheel drift is stopped. Mark the orientation of the breaker bar. (Do not reverse direction of your wrench during this step.)
3. Turn the nut CCW so that there is slight drift, then turn it in opposite direction until wheel drift is stopped. Mark the orientation of the breaker bar again.
4. Find the mid-point between the two orientation marks you made in steps #2 & #3, and turn the nut to that position with your wrench.
This should be the "sweet spot" in the control valve where there is no bias causing the wheels to drift in either direction.
5. Turn off ignition, reinstall control valve end cap, install wheel, and lower car to floor.
That's it.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 186
Likes: 6
From: Lebanon Junction KY
Hey guys, let me ask what might be a obvious thing. If a PS control valve is only "slightly" off center or out of adjustment could it cause only a slight pull to one side?
This might sound dumb but the only experience I have had in the past was with the sudden almost violent movement of the wheel to one side.
Thanks
Mark
This might sound dumb but the only experience I have had in the past was with the sudden almost violent movement of the wheel to one side.
Thanks
Mark
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,347
Likes: 1,576
From: los altos hills california
Hey guys, let me ask what might be a obvious thing. If a PS control valve is only "slightly" off center or out of adjustment could it cause only a slight pull to one side?
This might sound dumb but the only experience I have had in the past was with the sudden almost violent movement of the wheel to one side.
Thanks
Mark
This might sound dumb but the only experience I have had in the past was with the sudden almost violent movement of the wheel to one side.
Thanks
Mark
Or ... complain to your alignment shop. They shouldn't give you a car that wants to run to the left.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,692
Likes: 1,366
YES. Mine was like that.
Hey guys, let me ask what might be a obvious thing. If a PS control valve is only "slightly" off center or out of adjustment could it cause only a slight pull to one side?
This might sound dumb but the only experience I have had in the past was with the sudden almost violent movement of the wheel to one side.
Thanks
Mark
This might sound dumb but the only experience I have had in the past was with the sudden almost violent movement of the wheel to one side.
Thanks
Mark
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,114
From: Crossville TN
If you have ever done this adjustment, then you would know that a slight drift is VERY possible. The closer the adjustment nut is to the correct centering position, the less the drift. With front end in the air and wheel off (no load on the tires), a little shift will make the steering actuate very slowly in one direction. If the wheels were put back on in that state, the car would tend to drift in that direction, if it were on flat pavement.
You would only get a sudden lurch-type action if the adjustment were WAY off...or if there was air in the system...or if the hydraulic hoses got reversed...or if the guts of the control valve were damaged or mis-assembled.
You would only get a sudden lurch-type action if the adjustment were WAY off...or if there was air in the system...or if the hydraulic hoses got reversed...or if the guts of the control valve were damaged or mis-assembled.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 992
Likes: 56
From: Baldwinsville, NY
My steering only worked after replacing the rear strut rods and an alignment by a chevy old school tech. This is after bliestien shocks, new front end (ball joints, tie rods ends, idler arm, and control arm bushings ). Oh a Borgeson unit. 30K miles, two trips to san diego later and I'm looking for a 1000 mile trip for this summer. Now my 78SA is a joy to drive. Lars rebuilt carb helps.