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The studs coming from passenger exhaust manifold seem to narrow - so when I go to put on the gasket and heat riser - they won’t go in - meaning the studs are pinching the inside
question - how to “gently” manipulate the studs so I can get my heat riser and gasket on?
(Yes the nuts are off )
Take one stud off, put the gasket and riser on, then reattach the one stud. You might have to do that to get the exhaust pipe flange and pipe on, also.
You don't say what work if any was done to the flange when the old studs were removed. Not knowing I'll assume they came out and went in fine and I'm basing my response on that.
I'd be cautious with what you do. It appears that the studs are stainless. Not sure how much give there is with them when installing the heat riser but the steel studs are softer and will give slightly when they have a tight fit as you slide it on. I'd be reluctant with any attempt to bend the stainless ones. The cast manifold flange is softer and you may break it. How snug is it? You will have more leverage on the car than on the bench to push it on. You could switch to steel studs that have more give. Lastly do you have it orientated correctly when you fit it up. It is not symmetrical. The counter weight will just clear the block when positioned correctly. But you most likely already know that. Tim
You don't say what work if any was done to the flange when the old studs were removed.
Yeah, kicking myself for not doing a trial fit - this exhaust manifold is “new to me” - it’s was a used one that already had one stud removed.
Originally Posted by Tim69L46
I'd be cautious with what you do. It appears that the studs are stainless. Not sure how much give there is with them when installing the heat riser but the steel studs are softer and will give slightly when they have a tight fit as you slide it on. I'd be reluctant with any attempt to bend the stainless ones. The cast manifold flange is softer and you may break it. How snug is it? You will have more leverage on the car than on the bench to push it on. You could switch to steel studs that have more give. Lastly do you have it orientated correctly when you fit it up. It is not symmetrical. The counter weight will just clear the block when positioned correctly. But you most likely already know that. Tim
fairly snug - the gasket will get onto the studs “just barely” - as the ends of the studs are narrower than stud.
It’s a heat riser spacer.
my hands were all greasy & grimy from the work so I didn’t pick up my phone to snap a pick.
Take one stud off, put the gasket and riser on, then reattach the one stud. You might have to do that to get the exhaust pipe flange and pipe on, also.
Hmmm - didn’t think of that... thanks for the idea.
Yeah, kicking myself for not doing a trial fit - this exhaust manifold is “new to me” - it’s was a used one that already had one stud removed.
fairly snug - the gasket will get onto the studs “just barely” - as the ends of the studs are narrower than stud.
It’s a heat riser spacer.
my hands were all greasy & grimy from the work so I didn’t pick up my phone to snap a pick.
It sounds like they are really tight. When you put the spacer on it will push the studs in to position so everything will align. My concern would be if the studs are not square to the flange you would be putting stress on the manifold flange that would increase as you seated the spacer and snap an ear. You could check the studs with a small square. Difficult call Tim
Loosen the studs in the manifold, then check if the gasket and riser will slide on OK. If so, just leave the studs a bit loose after the manifold is installed to the engine. Install gasket, heat riser, down pipe and one nut on each stud. Spin that nut down until there is enough room for another nut.
Install that second nut and hold the first nut (still loose) in place while you lock the second one to the first (wrench tight). Now you can tighten that 'set' of nuts CW until that stud is fully seated in the manifold.
Break the outer nut loose and remove it. When all three studs have been tightened, spin the nuts to finger tight, then tighten as needed to position down pipe and lock it in place.
Great to hear all went well! I hesitated recommending the pipe trick although I've used it before. it can be a high risk fix depending how malleable the stainless studs are and how brittle the manifolds are from the heat cycles they've endured.
Heat riser fitment issue
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