Hi,
I need a new (or quality rebuilt/reman) PS pump installed on my 1971 LS5 and while Corvette Central sells only one (made by Tuff Stuff) and other vendors also seem to sell only one, Jeg's sells 2 different pumps (also made by Tuff Stuff), one for SB and one for BB.
Jeg's 2 PS pumps show different housings, and more significantly, different inlets/outlets locations and styles (for lack of a better word).
Were there different PS pumps for SB and BB from the factory in '71?
The one on my car is likely not original, so not a good reference.
Here's the different pumps Jeg's offers (5th and 6th pumps from top):
https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...ersistYmm=true
THANKS!

 

I had endless problems with rebuilt pumps. Have you considered rebuilding what you have? That's what I finally did and now it works properly.

 

I have definitively considered rebuilding what I have, but am concerned that the one on the car may have more issues than just needing the rebuild kit; shaft scoring etc...
I also thought about sending it out, but then there's the down time, and we already lost about a month of driving to rotten "spring" weather!
So, a good new U.S. built unit, or quality rebuilt unit seems like the way to go I think.

 

Problem with rebuilds is that the early pumps used a keyed shaft and in short supply. So the rebuilders are rebuilding whatever cores they get in, even when they're in too bad a shape to be rebuilt. One of the rebuilds I got snapped the shaft off when I tightened the pulley nut. The shaft was 'repaired' by drilling a hole in it, sticking a bolt in the hole and then bracing the 2 halves of the shaft together. Of course it broke when I tightened the nut as that kind of repair has no strength to it.

 

So, I guess one has to make sure the vendor sells a pump with the correct keyed shaft?
Is there a way to tell visually?
I have read that there is a special tool (Autozone will loan) required to remove old pulley and install the pulley onto the replacement pump. I suppose that tool is for the keyed shafts?
Thx

 

Yes, because your pulley won't fit on the later press-fit shaft.

Not unless the picture happens to show the keyway on the shaft.

The other way around. The puller is needed for the later style pressed-on pulleys. Keyed pulleys come off no problem.

 

Thank you Zwede!

I think my existing pump came off of a '70, '71 or '72 BB parts car. Would all those years have keyed shafts?
It was near the end of the restoration and the parts car pump was put on in haste after a NAPA re-manufactured pump failed. The shop doing the final work needed the car out of their shop; the parts car pump worked OK for a while, but is failing now.

How do you remove the pulley from the older style keyed shaft?

Sorry for all the questions, but it's looking more and more like I'll need to remove and get mine rebuilt. If you can recommend a re-builder of PS pumps, that'd be great. Thanks again.

PS: I just looked at the Jeg's ad again for the Tuff Stuff pumps. They both list as having keyed shafts, so my pulley should fit if I decided to spend the $162 on a pump that is not re-manufactured, but brand new, made in USA. The one that isn't for the BB looks like the one on my car with the hose tube coming out of the center pump housing, so still confused as to why they list a separate pump for a BB car.

 

So here is what I found out during the change from a factory 78 setup to using a GM serpentine setup (1991 Camaro) on the car.

Same physical Saginaw pump (type p) with the following changes.

1. Reservoir Housing difference (return line for access / clearance issues). Mounts are still the same.
2. pressure value different rating
3. High pressure connection metric vs NTP and Higher flow rating.
4. Hose connection fittings (NTP metric etc ) with factory for the car hoses.

So when I used the new AC Delco pump from the serpentine kit I removed the High pressure connection / restrictor and the pressure value from the stock 78 pump and installed in the new PS Pump.

So the things to look at are.

1. Reservoir housing ( hose connections )
2. Pressure valve rating (part inside the pump behind the high pressure flow restrictor )
3. Flow rating ( high pressure flow restrictor )

If the parts are still good on the old part you should be able to move them to the new pump.

If you use the new pumps parts and they are higher in pressure and flow, you will have more assist and a light PS feel, and may cause leaks / seal failure.

The other thing to note is the pulley connection. Press on vs bolt on.

Then on the replacement unit do they use a pulley shaft bushing or a roller bearing. Pulley shaft bushings tend to fail and leak after rebuilds or if used in new PS pumps.

I believe tuff stuff parts use roller bearing / seal for the pulley shaft. Contact tuff stuff direct to get this info.

I would also contact them direct as to what part is best for you.

 

Yes.

After removing the nut (impact gun is recommended so the pump doesn't spin) you can use a regular 2-jaw puller if it won't come off by hand.

They're super easy to rebuild. The rebuild kit is about $15 and available at any parts chain because that Saginaw pump was on everything back in the day, and not just GM either. Several good videos on youtube, search for "saginaw pump rebuild".

 

I had to replace my pump in my 70 LS5 and if you go with the Laren (I think that’s it, but RockAuto sells them and they are the higher priced one) it will work good. Most replacements used the angular case vs the rounded one, but the Laren was right, and don’t believe the other photos when looking.

The job of changing the pump sucks. Not a lot of room and trying to line everything up is a joy.

 

This is the one thats in the mail to me right now.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-19-6168sb-6p

Mine was in really bad shape but I tried to rebuild it anyway...... So with a new oil bath on the bottom of my freshly cleaned car, rebuilt motor and trans I decided to buy this one, if it sucks I'm going to the Tuff Stuff one which is $20 bucks more

 

Looks like a quality piece.
The description says the pulley attachment style is "bolt-on".
I wonder if this is different than the early keyed shaft attachment.
At this point, my main concern is getting the pulley off the old pump and securing it to the new pump correctly.
That is if I attempt this job myself, which I am currently back and forth on whether that's a good idea.

 

Stupidly I checked the manufacturers website after the purchase and the pump I listed has the inlet pointing to the side so I purchased the TUFFSTUFF pump and will return the other when it shows up. Sorry for any bad info

 

When the new pump shows up I'll post a pic of the shaft for you. 5he description says keyway

 

I think the answer to my original question is that there were not 2 different pumps for SB and BB cars. Not sure why Tuff Stuff makes 2 different ones, and their website does not explain why they've changed the design of the BB pump, so that's what initially confused me. They must have redesigned the housing of the pump for a BB for whatever reason.

It's interesting that Corvette Central now offers only the Tuff Stuff pump. They must have been getting a lot of returns on re-mans. But who knows how good the Tuff Stuff pumps are. Not much mention of them on the forum that I can find.

I found the below explanation (from an older post by member Jim Shea) for anyone interested, which helps further clarify the 2 different pump pulley/driveshaft types.

(Thx Jim!):

"There are two basic systems for the pump pulley and pump driveshaft to assemble together.

The first system was used up to 1975. It consisted of a male 9/16-18 UNF thread on the pump driveshaft, a nut, and a 1/8 x 1/2 woodruff key. There was a keyway in both the driveshaft and the pulley hub. Unless the driveshaft and pulley are rusted together. The two parts should seperate fairly easily when you remove the nut on the driveshaft.

A new design driveshaft and pulley system was introduced in 1975. The pulley hub is an interference fit to the pump driveshaft. You must use the correct design pulley with the new pump driveshaft. They will not interchange with the old design.

If you look at the end of the 1975+ pump driveshaft you will see some splines and then deeper inside the driveshaft you should see female 3/8-16 UNC threads. Those threads are used by the special tools that are used to press the pulley onto the driveshaft and also to remove the pulley from the driveshaft. Special tools are required so that you don't destroy the power steering pump by pressing (or pulling) the pulley directly on the driveshaft.

So male thread on the pump driveshaft (from dirt until 1974).
Femal thread on the pump driveshaft (from 1975 until today).

That tool shown above is for 1975+ pumps and pulleys. It probably won't be needed by your system unless somebody installed a later (1975+) pump and pulley in your 1968".

Jim

 

I bought the Tuff Stuff one when I upgraded to Hydroboost brakes as well as Steeroids. It works well on both systems. No leaks anywhere.

 

The Tuff Stuff $170 dollar pump from summit
proper vertical low pressure intake

keyed straight shaft

looks sweet

 

Very Nice Piece!

 

I'm hoping to get it in tomorrow and have a review for you guys this weekend

 

I put the pulley on and it just slide right on. Its installed awaiting lines. If they dont show by lunch tomorrow it will be installed with the old lines and a new filter. The old lines werent removed and they are only 2 years old. No big deal