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Old May 4, 2018 | 06:38 PM
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Hello. I was looking for some advice on cooling. Got a 69 with a 427 that tends to get hot when stuck in traffic. Auxiliary fan? Any information would be great thanks.
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Old May 4, 2018 | 07:42 PM
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Put in an aluminium rad if all else in the cooling system is working properly.
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Old May 4, 2018 | 10:25 PM
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If the stock rad has been de-limed and cleaned, is not damaged, the radiator seals are good and in place, the stock thermostatic fan is there and functioning properly, you have a hi-flow 180*F thermostat, and the pump is good, your ignition timing is appropriate, and the vacuum advance can on the distributor is connected to 'manifold' vacuum (instead of timed/ported vacuum) you shouldn't have overheating problems.

Or, as mentioned above, install a 3 or 4-core aluminum radiator and have no problems.
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Old May 4, 2018 | 10:25 PM
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Default radiator

Originally Posted by Leojones
Hello. I was looking for some advice on cooling. Got a 69 with a 427 that tends to get hot when stuck in traffic. Auxiliary fan? Any information would be great thanks.

I agree with resdoggie. The PO installed an aluminum radiator in my 68 convert with NOM 454 engine, which runs even hotter than your 427. When I got the car it had both the belt-driven stock fan and a pusher electric fan, which did not have a thermostat and ran all the time. I finally removed the belt-driven fan and the stock fan shroud. I also installed a relay that turns the electric fan on based on the coolant temperature. The electric fan, aluminum radiator and the "shroud" for the electric fan keep the car running cool in traffic. If you decide to get the aluminum radiator, measure the available space and get the biggest one that will fit, preferably a three row core one. Also invest in a thermostatically controlled relay to turn the electric fan on and off based on the coolant temperature.
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Old May 5, 2018 | 02:47 AM
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When I rebuilt my 427 I used a new water pump, Dewitts radiator, new hoses and a 180F thermostat. New seals on the shroud and it runs about 180 all the time. In traffic on on the freeway.
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Old May 5, 2018 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by resdoggie
Put in an aluminium rad if all else in the cooling system is working properly.
thanks Res!
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Old May 5, 2018 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Leojones

thanks Res!
thanks to everyone all the info is greatly appreciated
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Old May 5, 2018 | 08:16 AM
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The Dewitts radiator was one of the best improvements on my 69 427 runs way cooler than the original copper one,
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Old May 5, 2018 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If the stock rad has been de-limed and cleaned, is not damaged, the radiator seals are good and in place, the stock thermostatic fan is there and functioning properly, you have a hi-flow 180*F thermostat, and the pump is good, your ignition timing is appropriate, and the vacuum advance can on the distributor is connected to 'manifold' vacuum (instead of timed/ported vacuum) you shouldn't have overheating problems.

Or, as mentioned above, install a 3 or 4-core aluminum radiator and have no problems.


I especially agree on the appropriate timing curve rather than the stock timing curve.
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Old May 6, 2018 | 09:04 PM
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Stock GM set-ups (especially from '71-later) were intended to run with retarded timing for 'emissions' reasons. That caused them to run 'hot'...especially at idle and at slow speeds.

Last edited by 7T1vette; May 6, 2018 at 09:04 PM.
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