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new frame 71, do I shim it?

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Old May 29, 2018 | 06:22 AM
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Default new frame 71, do I shim it?

Folks, ready to drop newer repaired bird cage onto replacement frame, so do I use any old shims? I kind of wonder why the even used them, I would have thought gm would have made both sides the same, whatever, where do I shim and how many? I have about 10 left over when car was taken apart. Thanks Mike.
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Old May 29, 2018 | 07:09 AM
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These have been described as kit cars assembled by chevy. The body's weren't clamped into fixtures and spot-welded together like just about every car since the Model A. Will you need shims? Most likely. Where you gonna need em? You tell us. Put car on frame with shims where they were and start measuring to see what is too high and what is too low...
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Old May 29, 2018 | 11:15 AM
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My 75 Vert didn't seem to sit correctly on the frame when I got it. After I finished the chassis and put the body back on, I just played with the shims at each mount. I would see how hard it sat down on each spot and how square the body was with the frame. The frame was sitting square with the floor and measuring the same height side to side. I got the body to do the same. It is a lot better than it was from the factory.

Mike

Last edited by v2racing; May 29, 2018 at 11:15 AM.
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Old May 29, 2018 | 01:21 PM
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When starting with an unknown frame,
I start with 2 shims under each of the 4 cabin corners, Not accessible with body on.
then add shims as needed to the exposed mounts you can reach.
Ideally you want even body pressure on all mount points.
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Old May 29, 2018 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by autoalain
...I kind of wonder why the even used them, I would have thought gm would have made both sides the same...
Frames were made for GM by the A.O. Smith Company. Shims were used because, although the body mounts were within GM specs, they were not always perfect.
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Old May 29, 2018 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 69Vett
When starting with an unknown frame,
I start with 2 shims under each of the 4 cabin corners, Not accessible with body on.
then add shims as needed to the exposed mounts you can reach.
Ideally you want even body pressure on all mount points.
Good tip.
Hope I remember that in a couple of months.

Bman
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Old May 29, 2018 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bmans vette
Good tip.
Hope I remember that in a couple of months.

Bman

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Old May 29, 2018 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by derekderek
... The body's weren't clamped into fixtures and spot-welded together like just about every car since the Model A.
Years ago I talked to a guy that worked in the St Louis plant during the C3 era. He said they did use jigs for the birdcage and body but the jigs would go out of spec after a number of cars and no one cared enough to check the jig until someone came running down the line telling them the doors didn't fit anymore. Quality control back in the day was terrible. Didn't help that many of the line workers got stoned on their lunch breaks.
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Old May 30, 2018 | 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by zwede
Years ago I talked to a guy that worked in the St Louis plant during the C3 era. He said they did use jigs for the birdcage and body but the jigs would go out of spec after a number of cars and no one cared enough to check the jig until someone came running down the line telling them the doors didn't fit anymore. Quality control back in the day was terrible. Didn't help that many of the line workers got stoned on their lunch breaks.
That sounds about right. My 75 was almost 3/8 of an inch higher on the passenger side front fender than the left. The tires were about a 1/4" further out towards the outside on the drivers side than the passenger side.

It sits level now.

Mike
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