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Well if you consider a full tank is around 18gals. making around a 70liters at 1.65€/Liter = 115 €uros around
It makes a $130 for a full tank.
Pretty expensive, though I could put 95 instead of 98 unleaded. It would have been a bit less expensive (not that much...)
What would it be Dalton in your area today ?
Uncertain, the price has been drifting up, and I've not bought any 93 since December. I think I noticed earlier this week, filling up my daily driver, that 93 was a penny or three below $3.00/gallon. So about $55 a tank full.
Uncertain, the price has been drifting up, and I've not bought any 93 since December. I think I noticed earlier this week, filling up my daily driver, that 93 was a penny or three below $3.00/gallon. So about $55 a tank full.
In France we have either 98 octane or 95. I think C3 can work from a 91octane index. Anyhow my tank cost 2.3 more that yours ! Amazing.
@Dirty Dalton : Great car you have Dalton ! Cragar and side pipde makes it ! I would love sides for the look, it's definitely much more agressive and complete racing look. But, the noise is already loud and in my tiny French village, would be claims... rules are very strict in france concerning pipes. Concerning wheels I must say I'm in love with the original rally wheels...
"Set off the house fire alarms when it started" : Better than to set car into fire
@Dirty Dalton : Great car you have Dalton ! Cragar and side pipde makes it ! I would love sides for the look, it's definitely much more agressive and complete racing look. But, the noise is already loud and in my tiny French village, would be claims... rules are very strict in france concerning pipes. Concerning wheels I must say I'm in love with the original rally wheels...
"Set off the house fire alarms when it started" : Better than to set car into fire
Wheels are American Racing 'Torque Thrust'. Popular back in the day. Their 'Daisy Wheel' was also popular. I had a hard time deciding. The wheels I had on it back in the 70's were Minilight 'look-a-likes'.
The side exhaust isn't really very loud. I also suspect it to be more restrictive than the standard 2.5" rear exhaust. I'm hoping this year to measure the back pressure. I have the full under-the-car system, and the appropriate rear panel required to fit it. All I'd need is the rectangular exhaust ends and trim. I have the original wheels, caps, and trim rings, too. I'm so not a purest - I have after-market seats that are comfortable and supportive, although I wee bit of a struggle to get in and out, LOL. The belts are refurbished, and from my '65 Shelby Mustang. I'm as sentimental as I'm non purest.
Thank you for your Photos and comaraderie. When we hit the jackpot I'll ship mine over and join you.
Last edited by Dirty Dalton; Apr 28, 2019 at 04:42 PM.
Thank you! Much better than 'like'. How stupid is that... "What so ever cunning fiend it was that thought that up hath a voice in hell for absurdity!" With apologies, of course, for corrupting the Bard's words.
Last edited by Dirty Dalton; Apr 28, 2019 at 04:48 PM.
Reason: added a missing comma
It’s so cool to see these cars being driven. Far too many are hidden away in dark corners of garages. My neighbor has a 1970 LT-1 sitting under 20 blankets in his garage for the past 30 years. He keeps threatening to sell it to me “when he’s ready”. Been hearing that for 14 years now. Lol
Posting here as it's an LT-1 specific question. I've removed the valve covers on this new-to-me LT-1 and the codes on the underside all check out as correct but what is this strip on the carb side of each cover ? My other doesn't have these and there's no mention in the NCRS tech guide.
I am not an expert but it looks like someone used the strips to patch a crack. It looks like that they are not only attached by the rivets but sealed around the edges.
I am not an expert but it looks like someone used the strips to patch a crack. It looks like that they are not only attached by the rivets but sealed around the edges.
Indeed. What's on the inside?
I can recommend Jerry MacNeish to 'fix' them. Nice guy, quick, excellent work. z28Camaroman@juno.com I realize he's not exactly convenient...
I am not an expert but it looks like someone used the strips to patch a crack. It looks like that they are not only attached by the rivets but sealed around the edges.
They're off at the polishers and I didn't pay that much attention to them at the time but I'm pretty sure there's no cracks. There's also no signs of any oil leakage either on top or down below, it's surprisingly leak free!
Originally Posted by Dirty Dalton
Indeed. What's on the inside?
I can recommend Jerry MacNeish to 'fix' them. Nice guy, quick, excellent work. z28Camaroman@juno.com I realize he's not exactly convenient...
Ed, ask him when he's coming over here on vacation so I can get him a beer in exchange for any works they may need
Also, since the valve covers are aluminum the crack might not be visible, they would have to be magnafluxed to be certain. Also note, that the strip is in the weakest part of the cover. In the early 70's when neoprene gaskets came out they did not have a tendency to seal evenly so people had a a tendency to really over torque the bolts. This caused the cover to bow in the weakest spot and cause a bulge crack.
