1971 amp gauge install
You could test the meter without removing it from the cluster by locating the two feeder wires to that gauge, disconnecting one of them and momentarily touching a small 1.5v battery to those wires while watching for gauge movement. If the gauge needle moves, the gauge is probably OK. If it does not, you need to remove and repair/replace it.
The simplest place to get to those two wires is at the wiring bulkhead connector on the engine side. If you can read an electrical wiring schematic, you can locate those two wires coming out of the engine bulkhead connector.
I would estimate the odds of the gauge being the problem at 50%; one of the fusible links (there is a 20 awg orange fusible link connected to BOTH of those leads [one is inside the main wiring harness bundle and the other is at the horn relay]) 30%; and 20% probability going to other connected wiring {under dash or in engine compartment}.
It would be a shame to buy and swap out that gauge...only to find out that it was OK and the problem was elsewhere.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jun 20, 2018 at 11:13 AM.
Not sure how the needle broke off (????). Hope it wasn't due to some wild fluctuations with the gauge. You could install a voltmeter; but you would need to re-route some of the wiring as the later C3's had.
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Before anything else
FIRST Disconnect the battery, both terminals
When you are ready to disconnect the cables of the back of the gauge ,
mark the cables, so you know which goes where , an easy method to use , get a few different coloured ( Spelling I'm Australian ) zip ties , and draw your self a map of where each wire goes .
Its a good idea to take photos,




















