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Reinstalling a Elderbrock intake and I'd like to install washers. A different style bolt with a smaller head also. Most bolts in intake kits are only 1" which is a bit short I believe. Will the 1" be enough? The ones I removed are 1.25 SS with a regular hex head. A few are almost impossible to get torqued down.
Regular hardware store stuff is 1 and 1.5 inch. Most will have Allen head also. You want 12-point you need to find a fastener place. Another option is buy longer, thread nut on the bolt, and cut it to exact length you want. Removing nut cleans up the end of the thread. Aftermarket intake implies originality isn't your first priority. Standard cheap hardware store bolts are just fine for intake manifolds, carbs, etc. DON'T use them in connecting rods and flywheels...
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by croaker
Reinstalling a Elderbrock intake and I'd like to install washers. A different style bolt with a smaller head also. Most bolts in intake kits are only 1" which is a bit short I believe. Will the 1" be enough? The ones I removed are 1.25 SS with a regular hex head. A few are almost impossible to get torqued down.
the minimum requirement is that the depth of the threads into the block in this case be greater then the diameter of the bolt for getting the strength you need. you can cut the longer threads off with a cut off wheel just jamb two nuts together where you want it to be terminated and then use a cut off wheel to cut the bolt....the threads will be intact and its cut to length, I think the round serrated allen head bolts look really cool
Last edited by bobs77vet; Jul 2, 2018 at 02:52 PM.
Those ARP are pretty and pricey. I'm needing something with a washer and a smaller head one in particular is nearly impossible to tighten when snugged up. I've seen kits like I want but only 1 inch in length. I was just wondering what others are using in this situation
A good flat washer under them. If too big diameter. Bolt washer to a 3/8 bolt. Chuck bolt in a drill. Fire up a grinder. Bench, makita 4-1/2, whatever.spin washer and put it against the grind wheel. Not a real precise surface grinder, but it'll make a washer the size you want.
I like the smaller heads with a washer like Summit sells. they usually come in a kit. the edelbrocks and other aftermarket intakes have larger holes than stock, I assume for variation in head angle if they've been milled or block decked, at least that's my theory. factory bolts don't tend to work as well without a washer and those middle ones are a pain to tighten unless you get a reduced head or allen head style.
Those appear to be flanged-head bolts. What's the purpose of the added washer?
To get a proper cinch without digging into the intake metal......the "flange" bolt is not really such.......it is just a smaller head for extra access in tight areas.......
BTW......these stainless ARP intake bolts are the only ones I will use......they are mandatory on a lower singe plane intake.......no way to get a wrench on normal bolt.
Oh.....and make sure you use a little PTFE on the bolts too for the ones that are not blind......
To get a proper cinch without digging into the intake metal......the "flange" bolt is not really such.......it is just a smaller head for extra access in tight areas.......
BTW......these stainless ARP intake bolts are the only ones I will use......they are mandatory on a lower singe plane intake.......no way to get a wrench on normal bolt.
Oh.....and make sure you use a little PTFE on the bolts too for the ones that are not blind......
Jebby
Agree. They increase the surface area and I assume they help prevent galling of the aluminum at the torque surface. They are not split BTW. I used ARP studs or bolts thru out the assembly on my BB. Probably overkill but not really a major cost difference in the big scheme of things, IMHO.