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Booster / brake pedal travel

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Old 07-05-2018, 02:55 PM
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1978_C3
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Default Booster / brake pedal travel

Hi All,

Hoping someone can help me out here. I replaced my brake booster in my 1978 corvette. Now my brake pedal travel is too much and I have to raise my foot up six inches in order to hit the brake pedal. I made a spacer to go between booster and firewall to move the booster closer to the front of the car and it helps but brings on a whole bunch of other problems and i don't want to drive or sell the car with that mod. I need to replace the booster with different one so gas and brake pedals are the same. Problem is I don't know what booster i should order. What would I tell the parts person, oh i need one that is ???? Anybody have any idea?





Old 07-05-2018, 04:57 PM
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doorgunner
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Originally Posted by 1978_C3
Hi All,

Hoping someone can help me out here. I replaced my brake booster in my 1978 corvette. Now my brake pedal travel is too much and I have to raise my foot up six inches in order to hit the brake pedal. I made a spacer to go between booster and firewall to move the booster closer to the front of the car and it helps but brings on a whole bunch of other problems and i don't want to drive or sell the car with that mod. I need to replace the booster with different one so gas and brake pedals are the same. Problem is I don't know what booster i should order. What would I tell the parts person, oh i need one that is ???? Anybody have any idea?
This is a guess: My '68 car brake pedal has a limit that is factory set so that the pedal can "raise up" only so far.....I would think your car has a limit/bumper also. My car also has Upper and Lower holes in the pedal arm for Manual or Booster brakes. I think the lower HOLE in the pedal arm that the plunger rod connects to is for booster brakes.

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Old 07-05-2018, 06:18 PM
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7T1vette
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Did you verify that the actuator pin (booster to master cylinder) is the correct length for the new parts you installed? It must be the SAME LENGTH as the depth of the space it has to fill. If it is too short, your pedal travel will be gone before the M/C ever starts to actuate. Also, you can connect the booster at more than one location on the brake pedal. Make sure it is assembled at the correct location.
Old 07-06-2018, 02:01 PM
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1978_C3
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Did you verify that the actuator pin (booster to master cylinder) is the correct length for the new parts you installed? It must be the SAME LENGTH as the depth of the space it has to fill. If it is too short, your pedal travel will be gone before the M/C ever starts to actuate. Also, you can connect the booster at more than one location on the brake pedal. Make sure it is assembled at the correct location.
Funny thing is when i swapped out the old for the new I saw that the plunger attachment on the new was different than the old one. Did not worry about it figured it would fit same as old one. Also yes there is a built in stop but my pedal only has one hole not two. I guess there was more than one available back in 1978?
Old 07-06-2018, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 1978_C3
Funny thing is when i swapped out the old for the new I saw that the plunger attachment on the new was different than the old one. Did not worry about it figured it would fit same as old one. Also yes there is a built in stop but my pedal only has one hole not two. I guess there was more than one available back in 1978?
I think the chrome bumper cars had 2 holes in the brake arm. I would think different looking attachments still fit the same......as long as the length of the new plunger rod is adjusted to the same length as the previous rod.

Sorry I don't have better advice.
Old 07-07-2018, 12:44 PM
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In the process of changing my booster in my 79. Cardone part #54-81200
Old 07-14-2018, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by trukatedave
In the process of changing my booster in my 79. Cardone part #54-81200

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Old 07-14-2018, 08:56 PM
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If your new booster has a hex head adjusting screw on the tip of the rod, sometimes the edges of the hex head will interfere when inserted into the master cylinder plunger. I recently had that problem and had to grind the hex corners off so the tip of the adjusting screw would fit all the way into the m/c plunger. Then I was able to accurately adjust the rod so the m/c would fit against the booster without being in a bind.

Last edited by doorgunner; 07-14-2018 at 08:58 PM.

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