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Radio Troubles Help!

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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 09:32 AM
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Default Radio Troubles Help!

Hey guys, haven't posted in a while as I sold my 77 a few years ago and just now recently bought a 74 - 454. I'm having some issues with the radio being that it powers on but will not play any music (radio / blue tooth / CD) until I have the car in 4th gear at about 50-60 mph or around 2500 rpm?? The radio does work when the car is not running and I just have the key on. I've never experienced this before so I'm a bit befuddled. The radio is an aftermarket Kenwood, I pulled it out yesterday and checked all fuses / harness and antenna wire are connected well. I followed the antenna wire all the way to the rear to see if there was anything wrong with it and saw nothing concerning. I've got good power and fuse at the fuse box as well. Any ideas?
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by crazy4c4
Hey guys, haven't posted in a while as I sold my 77 a few years ago and just now recently bought a 74 - 454. I'm having some issues with the radio being that it powers on but will not play any music (radio / blue tooth / CD) until I have the car in 4th gear at about 50-60 mph or around 2500 rpm?? The radio does work when the car is not running and I just have the key on. I've never experienced this before so I'm a bit befuddled. The radio is an aftermarket Kenwood, I pulled it out yesterday and checked all fuses / harness and antenna wire are connected well. I followed the antenna wire all the way to the rear to see if there was anything wrong with it and saw nothing concerning. I've got good power and fuse at the fuse box as well. Any ideas?
Disconnect the alternator - red "power" wire- make sure it doesn't hit a ground-wrap with electrical tape.

Start the car up and see if the radio works- I betting it's a bad diode or two in the alternator.

Richard
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 10:38 AM
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All aftermarket radios have 12 volt constant (yellow)that holds the memory ie clock , radio presets etc. It is probably ok. The red is what is from ignition when car running. Of course black is ground. It is one of these causing your problem. You could put a meter or test light on battery ground and while driving see if you have power on the red all the time like you should. If you do put the test lead clip on positive and drive back home and see if you have ground at radio. One trip and you will know which wire is causing trouble. Then replace it with a good known ground or switched wire.
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 11:06 AM
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Thanks guys! I'm dropping it off at body shop today to work on T-tops, will let you know what the problem was when I get it back!
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by henrikse
All aftermarket radios have 12 volt constant (yellow)that holds the memory ie clock , radio presets etc. It is probably ok. The red is what is from ignition when car running. Of course black is ground. It is one of these causing your problem. You could put a meter or test light on battery ground and while driving see if you have power on the red all the time like you should. If you do put the test lead clip on positive and drive back home and see if you have ground at radio. One trip and you will know which wire is causing trouble. Then replace it with a good known ground or switched wire.
I used to work for Kenwood- since the early 90's the constant power source actually powers the radio and the ignition switch JUST triggers the radio to come on- pulls no real power.

Originally Posted by crazy4c4
Thanks guys! I'm dropping it off at body shop today to work on T-tops, will let you know what the problem was when I get it back!
Let us know

Last edited by Richard454; Sep 17, 2018 at 12:04 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2018 | 06:17 PM
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I suspect that the radio power was tapped into the ignition coil positive voltage. At low rpm's, the resistance wire limits current (aka lowers voltage) so that the radio won't really work. Once the rpm's come up, the voltage and current level is adequate for it to play. I could be wrong...there are many possible causes... but check out where power supply for radio was captured.

[disregard if it still has the original radio in the car] Problem could also be a bad ground connection to the radio.
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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 05:37 PM
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Ok guys, got a chance to work on it today and am still having issues. Took power wire off of alternator which didn’t fix the problem. Ended up disconnecting where the power was run for radio land connected straight to battery with an in line 10 amp fuse. This didn’t fix the problem so I ran the ground straight to negative on battery to check my ground. Problem persisted. Then ran ignition straight to battery and this didn’t fix it. I figured this would at least tell me which wire to run down. I did notice the factory wires have a grey wire that’s not connected to anything??

Could this have have anything to do with a new distributor cap and rotor set that we’re just installed?

To recap here here is my problem: radio powers on and can flip through all menus. Sound works fine when car is off and ignition turned on. When car is started, sound is “choppy” with either radio or cd until I get up to about 2500 rpm.
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Old Sep 30, 2018 | 11:58 PM
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Grey wire is probably for radio light. All instrument lights are grey I believe. Your distributor aie coil could be the problem. Unlike your first report sounded like radio only worked at certain rpm. Now it seems you are saying it is working but choppy. You need a filter no eliminate alternator or ignition noise. You can buy these at most car audio locations of probably NAPA or something. Put it on the constant 12 volt and should fix your problem. They used to use a capacitor on these cars but it would be dried out and not working

Originally Posted by crazy4c4
Ok guys, got a chance to work on it today and am still having issues. Took power wire off of alternator which didn’t fix the problem. Ended up disconnecting where the power was run for radio land connected straight to battery with an in line 10 amp fuse. This didn’t fix the problem so I ran the ground straight to negative on battery to check my ground. Problem persisted. Then ran ignition straight to battery and this didn’t fix it. I figured this would at least tell me which wire to run down. I did notice the factory wires have a grey wire that’s not connected to anything??

Could this have have anything to do with a new distributor cap and rotor set that we’re just installed?

To recap here here is my problem: radio powers on and can flip through all menus. Sound works fine when car is off and ignition turned on. When car is started, sound is “choppy” with either radio or cd until I get up to about 2500 rpm.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 03:54 AM
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I have a similar problem with my stereo.
(retro sound #2) works fine when normal driving but cuts out when idling. An absolute pain in the rear at the lights. I have gone direct from battery with all power and no difference. As soon as I touch the accelerator it works fine.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 04:51 AM
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Seems like an electrical noise issue getting to the radio and causing it to malfunction. Does the car have the metal covers installed over the distributor area? What about the plug wires? Try running the car in the dark with the hood up and see if you can see any arcing off of any of the wires. Another idea to try is to unplug the antenna connection at the radio and see if that makes a difference with the CD working.

Redvette2

Last edited by Redvette2; Oct 1, 2018 at 04:56 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 10:20 AM
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Fixed the radio!!! Thanks guys for all of your help!!

Problem was new new plug wires laying on the valve covers. Used zip ties to pull them off and radio now works with most if not all static gone. Will put a noise filter on my constant 12v and also buy the shielding for the dist and wires which should clear the rest of it up. Thanks again!!!
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Old Oct 1, 2018 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by crazy4c4
Fixed the radio!!! Thanks guys for all of your help!!

Problem was new new plug wires laying on the valve covers. Used zip ties to pull them off and radio now works with most if not all static gone. Will put a noise filter on my constant 12v and also buy the shielding for the dist and wires which should clear the rest of it up. Thanks again!!!
First I would check the ground plane (metal plate under antenna) - make sure it's got a good ground to the chassis.
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