Nice Zip Corvette Brake Bleeding Article
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Easton, PA
St. Jude Donor '10
Nice Zip Corvette Brake Bleeding Article
I received, and many of you may have as well, a nice e-mail from Zip Corvette that features an article on Brake Bleeding Techniques for 1967-1982 Corvettes. If you didn't get it you can find it here. If you did get it and didn't read it then maybe consider doing so, it is a good one in my opinion. Brake safely and keep up the good maintenance.
Have a great Fall.
David Howard
Have a great Fall.
David Howard
Last edited by AllC34Me; Sep 23, 2018 at 06:02 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
Well, I wouldn't do either bleeding activity the way the ZIP article is written. It is not 'wrong', just has extra work. There is absolutely NO reason to remove the master cylinder from the car to bleed it, unless you are replacing or rebuilding the M/C. Even then, you could place the new/rebuilt M/C back on the booster and then bleed it. Now, if you are rebuilding your M/C, and it is already in a vise....sure, do it there. Otherwise the removal and vise are unnecessary.
The little bleeding kit for the M/C is necessary (metal or plastic fittings and little hoses and holder). Just remove the brake lines from the M/C, move them out of the way a bit, install the bleeder hoses and fittings, then use the brake pedal to bleed the M/C. Done! Remove the bleeder kit, fill with new fluid to proper level, reattach the brake lines, and install the M/C cover. And NO, the M/C won't leak its fluid when you remove the bleeder kit; the piston is returned and the passages to the ports are sealed off. Maybe a drop or two, but it won't pull air back into the M/C.
ZIP method for brake bleeding will work, but all that jacking up and down, removing wheels, etc.....WHY? Kudos for them attempting to shed light on a 'good' bleeding article. But it could have been better.
The little bleeding kit for the M/C is necessary (metal or plastic fittings and little hoses and holder). Just remove the brake lines from the M/C, move them out of the way a bit, install the bleeder hoses and fittings, then use the brake pedal to bleed the M/C. Done! Remove the bleeder kit, fill with new fluid to proper level, reattach the brake lines, and install the M/C cover. And NO, the M/C won't leak its fluid when you remove the bleeder kit; the piston is returned and the passages to the ports are sealed off. Maybe a drop or two, but it won't pull air back into the M/C.
ZIP method for brake bleeding will work, but all that jacking up and down, removing wheels, etc.....WHY? Kudos for them attempting to shed light on a 'good' bleeding article. But it could have been better.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Virginia
Thanks David! That does seem like a lot of extra work, and I think the article assumes that you are replacing the master cylinder as well (which, if you buy a kit from Zip, you might be).
I use a pair of Motive Brake Fluid Catch Bottles to start gravity bleeding (both rear caliper ports at once) then use the Motive pressure bleeder to finish up. Worked first time, no fuss. I hadn't thought to move the car up and down, I just had the whole car in the air at once.
I use a pair of Motive Brake Fluid Catch Bottles to start gravity bleeding (both rear caliper ports at once) then use the Motive pressure bleeder to finish up. Worked first time, no fuss. I hadn't thought to move the car up and down, I just had the whole car in the air at once.
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Joined: Sep 2001
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Well actually that method was great about 15 years ago if you were by yourself. Some of our articles are provided to us by great technical writers but their way of doing something does not mean there is not a better way. Personally we started using the Motive bleeder back in 04 and I would never go back to bleeding any other way. No matter you are going to have to jack the car up off the ground if you do not want to crawl under it, plus I would prefer to see everything up close in case there are any leaks. You use the Motive bleeder to pressurize the system with fluid and then you start opening bleeder valves one at a time starting with the Right Rear. Once you make two passes you are done and this whole thing will take less then 30 minutes.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,369
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From: Centerville Louisiana
Well actually that method was great about 15 years ago if you were by yourself. Some of our articles are provided to us by great technical writers but their way of doing something does not mean there is not a better way. Personally we started using the Motive bleeder back in 04 and I would never go back to bleeding any other way. No matter you are going to have to jack the car up off the ground if you do not want to crawl under it, plus I would prefer to see everything up close in case there are any leaks. You use the Motive bleeder to pressurize the system with fluid and then you start opening bleeder valves one at a time starting with the Right Rear. Once you make two passes you are done and this whole thing will take less then 30 minutes.
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Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2001
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well of course but really any power bleeders. We just sell the motive because it is simple and it works. You can't bleed in hour on the old method from and empty system. The old works and used if for decades, the bleeder just makes it a one man job and effortless.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 173
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From: laguna niguel ca
After much misery attempting to bleed the traditional way, I bought a Motiff and it worked great the first time. Just use clamps to seal to master, not the worthless chains that come with the kit.