Engine Oil Weight?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Engine Oil Weight?
When I bought my 1969 Stingray with L68, the previous owner said the engine builder recommended straight 30W oil. It seems to be hard to find a quality brand 30W oil where I am, and the only one available looks like a cheapo special made for diesel engines.
Should I be OK to run 10W30, or what would you guys recommend?
Cheers,
Rob
Should I be OK to run 10W30, or what would you guys recommend?
Cheers,
Rob
#2
Nam Labrat
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: New Orleans Loo-z-anna
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I think it would be O.K. The 10W is for cold weather starting to help the engine crank easier.
#5
Racer
Member Since: Oct 2001
Location: Portage La Prairie Manitoba
Posts: 459
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When I bought my 1969 Stingray with L68, the previous owner said the engine builder recommended straight 30W oil. It seems to be hard to find a quality brand 30W oil where I am, and the only one available looks like a cheapo special made for diesel engines.
Should I be OK to run 10W30, or what would you guys recommend?
Cheers,
Rob
Should I be OK to run 10W30, or what would you guys recommend?
Cheers,
Rob
Unless you plan to drive it in temperatures below freezing 30w is fine.
Straight 30 is usually recommended because of aftermarket camshaft recommendations
Diesel oil is fine..... it should have more zinc content which a flat tappet cam requires
15/40 is a good compromise if straight 30 is hard to come by
Unless you are racing.... racing oil is not necessary
Barry
Last edited by Engage; 10-18-2018 at 08:58 AM.
#7
Advanced
If your starting the engine in cold conditions, I would recommend a multi vis grade.
Vic
#8
Melting Slicks
VR1 SAE 30 is formulated with the same chemistry as the multi- vis grades. One important consideration for VR1 is the ZDP additive is low volitilty. This means more anti wear additive stays with the oil longer than more conventional ZDP.
If your starting the engine in cold conditions, I would recommend a multi vis grade.
Vic
#9
Advanced
Yes sir, that would be my recommendation. Actually VR1 10w-30 is what I use in my 67 Camaro. A built ZZ4 motor.
5w-30 SynPower in my C6
10w-30 Premium Conventional in my 66 Mustang. a 6 cyl car.
Vic
5w-30 SynPower in my C6
10w-30 Premium Conventional in my 66 Mustang. a 6 cyl car.
Vic
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Blue73Shark (10-19-2018)
#13
Safety Car
10W30 should be fine for that engine.
If you have a "slider cam" with flat tappets, I'd strongly recommend a high zinc oil. I use PennGrade 1 in my older cars with slider cams. See http://amzn.com/B003TPGKJ8 for reference.
Another good high zinc choice is Redline Racing oils. They have a straight 30 weight oil available.
I've personally wiped lobes off a camshaft (in a Mercedes Benz M117 5.6L V8) with Valvoline Racing Synthetic oil. The bottles say "high zinc," and it's probably higher than most "street" oils with API SN or later ratings, but I think it's only 1200ppm Zinc out of the bottle. I now monitor older engines with more frequent oil analyisis, and I look for at least 1200ppm Zinc in the oil I'm draining from the engine after a full use cycle. Obviously starting at that level doesn't hit my target. PennGrade 1 oils are about 1500ppm Zinc from the bottle and I typically see between 1250ppm and 1300ppm in my older engines after 3000 miles. The redline oils are even higher in Zinc concentration, and when I was actually revving high and racing an older engine, I'd used the Redline racing oils, or I added their "Engine Oil Break In Additive" to the PennGrade 1 oil.
If you have a "slider cam" with flat tappets, I'd strongly recommend a high zinc oil. I use PennGrade 1 in my older cars with slider cams. See http://amzn.com/B003TPGKJ8 for reference.
Another good high zinc choice is Redline Racing oils. They have a straight 30 weight oil available.
I've personally wiped lobes off a camshaft (in a Mercedes Benz M117 5.6L V8) with Valvoline Racing Synthetic oil. The bottles say "high zinc," and it's probably higher than most "street" oils with API SN or later ratings, but I think it's only 1200ppm Zinc out of the bottle. I now monitor older engines with more frequent oil analyisis, and I look for at least 1200ppm Zinc in the oil I'm draining from the engine after a full use cycle. Obviously starting at that level doesn't hit my target. PennGrade 1 oils are about 1500ppm Zinc from the bottle and I typically see between 1250ppm and 1300ppm in my older engines after 3000 miles. The redline oils are even higher in Zinc concentration, and when I was actually revving high and racing an older engine, I'd used the Redline racing oils, or I added their "Engine Oil Break In Additive" to the PennGrade 1 oil.
#14
Melting Slicks
#16
Team Owner
Hemmings also sells a line of 'classic car' oils listing the following properties:
Manufactured for them by Champion Brands. Curious if anyone has tried or how it compares to other types advertising high zinc content.
Manufactured for them by Champion Brands. Curious if anyone has tried or how it compares to other types advertising high zinc content.
#17
Pro
I equate oil discussions with" Coke or Pepsi" ! A straight grade oil might be OK for a break in oil, but a lot of engineering that has gone into today's multi-viscosity oils. I wouldn't ignore those benefits. Just be certain, if you are running a flat tappet cam that your oil has a higher zinc content.
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Kerz (10-19-2018)
#18
Safety Car
A quick Google search and I found that one as "Champion" brand at the Eckler's Classic Chevy website.