Major electrical problem, a dead short
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2018
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From: Oregon, Ohio
Major electrical problem, a dead short
Hi, my first post. Just got this car, my first Corvette, 1973 stingray T/T. Got it running OK, replaced the spark plugs. So, was going to take it out for a ride, and I smelled smoke, the battery terminal clams had melted! There was a dead short across the battery leads, and wasn't caught by any fuses. I can't seem to find where the positive battery wire goes, and as far as I can remember, the only thing that the battery is normally hooked to unfused is the starter. And unless there is a problem with the wire being grounded itself. Please help.
Bill
Bill
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Summerville SC
Welcome to the forum. Just a general tip to you, when making a post it helps everyone to know the year of your car and any changes made before the problem started. That being said electrical issues are probably the biggest problem we have with these cars. Forty plus year old wire harnesses don't help. Neither does bubba's work. I would start by looking at anything you might have done since you got the car And yes the starter is supposed to be the only hot wire when the car is off. That brings us to the issue of battery cut off switches and there are lots of threads about the subject. So tell us more about yourself. Like where you are located etc. I might start looking at the starter extension harness. Notorious for melting. Not sure about your car but the later ones have it. Good luck
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 110
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From: Oregon, Ohio
Yes, thanks. The car 1973 stingray, has a 350 with a 4 speed manual. The car was running when it happened. I had just started it, was running ok, and put it in reverse, put the clutch in, and then everything died, that's when I smelled the smoke and looked behind the seat at the battery, the clamps had melted, they were lead clamps. I had charged the battery overnight, so it was fully charged. So I don't know much about this car, I guess I'll start with the starter, disconnect at that end to see if the short disappears. I'm an old guy (63) located in Northwest Ohio, Toledo area. Just bought the car, it has no modifications, but I didn't get any history on it.
Last edited by Billenglish; Nov 4, 2018 at 05:48 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Midlothian VA
Yes, thanks. The car 1973 stingray, has a 350 with a 4 speed manual. The car was running when it happened. I had just started it, was running ok, and put it in reverse, put the clutch in, and then everything died, that's when I smelled the smoke and looked behind the seat at the battery, the clamps had melted, they were lead clamps. I had charged the battery overnight, so it was fully charged. So I don't know much about this car, I guess I'll start with the starter, disconnect at that end to see if the short disappears. I'm an old guy (63) located in Northwest Ohio, Toledo area. Just bought the car, it has no modifications, but I didn't get any history on it.
The - ground cable runs out the bottom of the battery box and bolts directly to the frame next to the battery box.
You replaced the plugs...perhaps the ignition shielding fell down onto the positive wire/starter solenoid??? (just thinking out loud)
Last edited by Hammerhead Fred; Nov 4, 2018 at 07:37 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Midlothian VA
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Summerville SC
Regarding worse, my favorite was a forum member who had just gotten the car. Went to hook up the battery and BUBBA had used a red cable for the ground. He did what a lot of us would do ( and yes a lot of us are OLD too) and just put the red to the positive. I am still speachless because how many of us would have traced the red wire...let us know what you find. 
Pro
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 729
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From: Kelowna British Columbia
It could be the battery that shorted? At this point I would remove the battery and use an ohmmeter to troubleshoot. Check between pos and neg battery cables and see if you have a short. If you do you leave the meter on and start removing wires. ie the battery wire off starter. Follow it thru the battery box to the frame and down frame to starter and make sure no bare wire to ground
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From: Dryden MI
Take the battery and alternator in to a reputable shop to be tested. A dead short is deadly to our cars as fire or severe damage to the wires and electrical system. If you suspect a dead short, keep that cat outside and battery disconnected until you find problem. Neighbor almost lost his house when his C3 ca8ght Fire in the garage.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2018
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From: Oregon, Ohio
OK, think I found it. Dcd the starter, short still there. Tested battery, not there either. So, crawled under the car and started looking along the cable, and yes, found a worn spot where I can see copper poking out. This is on the cable where it is directly over the shifter. I'm going to just wrap some additional insulation around it for now until I get a replacement cable. Thinking of just buying some 00 wire and remaking the connections. Has anyone done this? Thanks for all of you help, this board is a very valuable resource for us newbies. Bill
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From: Charlotte NC
I can tell you that I have installed enough positive battery cables that when you get the original one out make sure the new one is the exact same length or really close to it.
And when you start to install the new cable in the clamps...start clamping the cable at the starter and work toward the battery,
DUB
And when you start to install the new cable in the clamps...start clamping the cable at the starter and work toward the battery,
DUB
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 110
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From: Oregon, Ohio
I can tell you that I have installed enough positive battery cables that when you get the original one out make sure the new one is the exact same length or really close to it.
And when you start to install the new cable in the clamps...start clamping the cable at the starter and work toward the battery,
DUB
And when you start to install the new cable in the clamps...start clamping the cable at the starter and work toward the battery,
DUB
Bill
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From: Springfield Missouri
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From: Charlotte NC
I honestly hope you secured this new cable in well.
I know for me...because I do this for a living that I would have to install it as how it was assembled regardless of the pain in the backside it can involve.
The end of the cable that attaches to the solenoid can be removed and reinstalled on a new cable due to oftentimes the new cables do not have the correct terminal end on it as like it came with from the factory. I have ad to do this on many cables so I know it can be done with a drill bit....just to let others know if they choose to do it.
So as long as you KNOW for a fact that it is secured good and not going to be able to hit anything and wear again. I guess it is your car and if you are content with it....so am I.
DUB
I know for me...because I do this for a living that I would have to install it as how it was assembled regardless of the pain in the backside it can involve.
The end of the cable that attaches to the solenoid can be removed and reinstalled on a new cable due to oftentimes the new cables do not have the correct terminal end on it as like it came with from the factory. I have ad to do this on many cables so I know it can be done with a drill bit....just to let others know if they choose to do it.
So as long as you KNOW for a fact that it is secured good and not going to be able to hit anything and wear again. I guess it is your car and if you are content with it....so am I.
DUB
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2018
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From: Oregon, Ohio
I'll go over it again. Thanks for the post. Tip: Use lead battery clamps, so that if you get a failure like this, the clamp will melt and automatically dc the battery. Might give you some piece of mind. Bill
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Charlotte NC
I can understand you concern due to this happening to you.
But literally...not one Corvette that has come into my shop was repaired for a positive battery cable failure like this. They have been replaced due to someone in the past doing something they should not have done and damaged it badly. Often times the person cut the end off the cable and added on a bolt on type and now the cable is so short it is straining to be able to attached to the battery.
It does make sense to have the lead cable end be the weak point in regards to it melting so no further damage a can occur. But I have a really hard time in cutting off a good sealed battery cable end when I am just not a believer in these bolt on cable design repair ends and prefer the end to be sealed...regardless if they are a top post or side post battery. But that is just me.
DUB
DUB
But literally...not one Corvette that has come into my shop was repaired for a positive battery cable failure like this. They have been replaced due to someone in the past doing something they should not have done and damaged it badly. Often times the person cut the end off the cable and added on a bolt on type and now the cable is so short it is straining to be able to attached to the battery.
It does make sense to have the lead cable end be the weak point in regards to it melting so no further damage a can occur. But I have a really hard time in cutting off a good sealed battery cable end when I am just not a believer in these bolt on cable design repair ends and prefer the end to be sealed...regardless if they are a top post or side post battery. But that is just me.
DUB
DUB