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Not as big a deal as I thought it might be...glad to have it done. It won’t be too bad to remove the column next time with the weld nut having been repaired. Back together Let there be light
Last edited by 74_stingray; Mar 11, 2019 at 09:49 PM.
Reason: Add information
Good, bad, or otherwise, I made the decision to install a Flaming River FR1734 universal joint instead of using the rag joint repair kit that I had previously purchased. True GM rag joints are unobtainium. The replacements I’ve found are not acceptable in my opinion. That leaves little alternative to a universal joint. Even Jim Shea has stated that the lack of availability of good rag joint replacement leaves the U joint as the alternative. After removing my rag joint it was apparent that it had been poorly redone sometime in the past, not to mention having a large tear.
Big thanks to Willcox for the dash pad removal instructions on their website!!! Thank you Ernie, I appreciate all the information you share. Sale thread bumps forthcoming.
Eddy
In reference to the seal and bushing kits for 32 spline Muncie, part number 5208, the outside diameter of the supplied bushing is 1.99”. The diameter needed to fit my M21 extension housing is 2.010. The 1.99” bushing just slides in and out, no press fit, no good. I determined GM part number 15665313 to have the proper dimensions including OD 2.10. We’ll see when it arrives...I’m sure someone else has been down this path.
Eddy
If the bushing supplied with nationally available kit (5208 Timken, National, etc) DOES NOT fit your Muncie extension housing, 32 spline shaft, then this is the part you need. GM 15665313. The bushing is available at a GM dealer, apparently also fits late model transfer case extension housings.
The bushing has a good interference fit, I used a section of pvc pipe to drive the bushing in, slip yoke fit well.
Last edited by 74_stingray; Mar 12, 2019 at 09:27 PM.
Reason: add kit part number
I did not like the first sway bar link kit that I installed, it had springs for spacers. I purchased Energy Suspension 9.8120G links. The Global West arms are quite a bit different from the factory arms and the POL arms, they required a much shorter spacer to level the sway bar in relation to the lower control arms. The Energy Suspension links came with 1 5/8” spacers, I used a 1/2” spacer to get it where I think it should be, it’s a good starting point. I will likely fabricate an adjustable heim linkage in the future.
The new properly fitted extension housing bushing and rear seal are installed. I am waiting arrival of a new slip yoke which will be here Wednesday then I can finally get the car back to the alignment shop to align the car with the Global West arms installed.
As of today, the goals set forth at the beginning of my project have been met.
The brake lines and brake D block have been changed, Wilwood calipers installed, front suspension rebuilt with Global West tubular control arms, steering components replaced, rear suspension rebuilt, and Spicer U joints installed in the drive line. Many other jobs have been completed along the journey. My overall to do list is by no means exhausted however, my initial objectives have been met. The only thing at this point is that I wish I had cut another 1/4 coil off the front springs, it's not quite as low as it was before but I'm not willing to pop the lower ball joint out right now, it's time to drive.
I had the alignment done this morning and the Mistress drives fabulous. I hope to be able to do a long test ride this weekend provided it doesn't rain, the forecast looks promising for Saturday afternoon.
The alignment specs with the Global West arms: -.05 degrees camber, +5.5 degrees caster.
Eddy
I drove the car Saturday and Sunday this weekend, the car drives great with the new suspension, brakes and drive train components. The car was rock steady at high speed, corner entry was also good with the -.5 degrees camber, I believe the added caster contributes to the stability. I have yet to order a rear 3/4" sway bar though I already have the factory style linkage installed to the trailing arms. The car definitely needs the rear bar in my opinion, to suit my personal desire to have less rear body roll on corner entry. The rear bar has always been a part of my plan, I have just slowed my roll on the spending to pacify the boss, albeit, temporarily.
I popped a "G" clip off of the 1st/2nd gear shift lever, on the transmission end. I had to limp it home using 3rd/4th, installed a new clip and back on the road, not sure why it launched. I was fortunate to be close to home. I will need to verify if the rod is hitting 3rd/4th rod or if the clip was possibly sprung. I have a new "Pit Pack" of bushings and clips ordered, will check it out upon arrival.
I removed the right side mirror last night and soaked it in mineral spirits overnight, the glass popped right out this morning. I will be employing theandies mirror repair method, thanks for posting the detailed write up, very nice!
Eddy
Last edited by 74_stingray; Apr 11, 2020 at 09:24 AM.
" I have yet to order a rear 3/4" sway bar though I already have the factory style linkage installed to the trailing arms. The car definitely needs the rear bar in my opinion, to suit my personal desire to have less rear body roll on corner entry. The rear bar has always been a part of my plan, I have just slowed my roll on the spending to pacify the boss, albeit, temporarily.".
When I was looking to increase the diameter of the rear sway bar for my 73 big block, I found that several of the aftermarket rear sway bars required the removal of the spare tire and the tub.
My research also revealed that the stock 9/16" rear sway bar was more that adequate for my build and anything larger could cause handling issues.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Mar 18, 2019 at 11:31 AM.
" I have yet to order a rear 3/4" sway bar though I already have the factory style linkage installed to the trailing arms. The car definitely needs the rear bar in my opinion, to suit my personal desire to have less rear body roll on corner entry. The rear bar has always been a part of my plan, I have just slowed my roll on the spending to pacify the boss, albeit, temporarily.".
When I was looking to increase the diameter of the rear sway bar for my 73 big block, I found that several of the aftermarket rear sway bars required the removal of the spare tire and the tub.
My research also revealed that the stock 9/16" rear sway bar was more that adequate for my build and anything larger could cause handling issues.
Indecision on my part has figured into my not yet purchasing a sway bar. I might be willing to purchase a 9/16" bar someone has removed if the price was right, with the straps and bushings, and shipping figured into the equation the cost is not likely justified. I am using a 1 1/8" front bar, several folks advise the 3/4" rear works well with that front bar. Addco's bar can be purchased for $150 shipped, including the straps and bushings. I already have the heim rod components to adapt the aftermarket bar to the factory links, that's where I have been leaning. In addition, I have removed all my spare tire tub components, I don't even own a spare, it's a calculated risk where I carry plugs and a 12v air pump.
I'm sure you are correct that the 9/16" rear bar is adequate, after all GM designed it that way. I'm still on the fence. I haven't let money roadblock me to this point, I don't know why now is any different, lol. I suppose the research into rear sway bars continues. Thanks for your input OCB!
Eddy
I ordered a rear sway bar today. My oldest son and I are doing the Tail of The Dragon April 2 if no rain. I WILL have the rear bar installed.
Eddy
Make sure you get a chance to drive it a little after putting on that bigger sway bar. It will affect how it reacts in corners and you don’t want to be surprised on a windey road like that.