Can anyone tell me what this is? There are two red wires that come from the wiring harness into the bottom of this and the orange wire comes out the top and goes back into another rubber,thing, that has a red wire that comes out the bottom and back into the harness. I have posted pictures of these below. As you can see the orange wire has been chewed through, since it is so close to the rubber boot for lack of anything else to call it how does one go about repairing it. Also, what items may be affected by this?

 

Yes, those are fusible links.

 

Photos #1,2 and 3 are showing the fusible link for your ammeter. I have no clue on what you are trying to show in the last photo.

DUB

 

Dub, last photo just shows the two red wires that go into the bottom of the fusible link, that has the orange wire coming out of the top...

 

The orange wire is the fusible link, the "rubber things" are just insulators for the connection. If there are no broken wires in the damaged part, I would clean it up and put a small dab of ultra black silicone on it to keep the elements out and move on.

 

.. That little nick in the orange wire I can see in photo # 1 is where I would put a small dab of RTV...even the orange colored type RTV and move on.

Giving us the year model also helps greatly anytime you start a thread. It appears from just the photos you posted it is later than a 1972..

Adding more basic information on your Public Prolife helps if you do not add the year model to your thread.

I went into some of your old threads and see it is a 1973.

DUB

 

Dub and '75, the wire is gone where the nick is... My plan is to peel off the covering on the wire by the insulator and from the other end and solder them back together, if there is enough wire sticking out of the insulator if not, not sure what I will do... and Dub you are right my bad this is a 73..

 

I would NOT solder a fusible link.. They should be crimped on....which may involve a bit more work due to trying to get down in there to do it as how I know I would have to do it if I were doing it for you can charging you money for the repair.

Seeing how you are fixing your own stuff...do as you see fit and I hope it all works out.

you may want to look at this link.

http://media.digikey.com/PDF/Data%20...e_Link_FAQ.pdf

I also use the WAYTEK thick walled black heat shrink tubing with the 4:1 shrink ratio to go over the butt connector.

DUB

 

Dub - not questioning your expertise, but I solder on fusible links. Just use a heat sink when doing it. It isn't any more sensitive than soldering on old circuit boards and you could solder components on those with appropriate heat sinks installed. I have done several on my 68 without issue. And, of course, I do a continuity check when done.

 

Thanks all for your help on this... not sure there is enough wire on the one end to crimp the two together let alone to try and solder it... Will get it figured out..

 

Go to your local Autozone (or whatever near - Autozone is nearest to me) and you'll find generic fusible link leads in about 3 to 4-inch lengths. It just looks like a piece of insulated wire. That will probably provide the length you need anyway, to either crimp or solder as you desire.
Guideline is to use a lead that is 4 gauge units smaller than the lead you are protecting (for an 8-gauge lead use a 12-gauge fusible link)

here are some pics from O'reillys.. looks like some have a little tab that identifies where the "fusible link" is located.. that's pretty cool: https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/a...6/faf10442f354

And here is some 12 gauge fusible lead... 4 feet of it, but it's cheap:

 

All I will say is that there are people who will do a repair as they see fit and because it works... they are satisfied. I am not here to judge what a person does but rather provide information on doing it in a manner that is a standard.

Trying to solder the two large wires along with the fusible link in the area that it is in for a repair would be a BEOTCH!

And even if it did not have two large wires that needed to be joined to the fusible link...and only one. What people may not realize in the fact that when you solder wires together....the copper gets effected and gets hard and rigid out past the point where the solder is being applied....due to the heat transferring down the wire.

So...keeping this in mind...some may find that even though they may think that soldering the wires together is the best way...depending on where it is and how well the wire is secured...it can possibly NOT be the best method and using a non-insulated butt connector and drilling a hole in the center of that butt connector so the exposed ends of the cooper wires that are in it and crimped in place and have a small dot of solder put on them if that person feels that they still need solder on it.

DUB

 

was able to replace the fusible link all is good. thanks guys for your help..