Weird electrical/ starting problem- please help
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Weird electrical/ starting problem- please help
Long story short, my 80 was sitting for years, had a built 406 put in, then sat again for about a year. I finally got around to re-restoring it (I restored it initially around 2003 or so.) Most everything is sorted out now, except for electrical. My engine builder left a bunch of wires dangling throughout the car and many of the electrical components don't work (pdl, pw, defroster, radio, headlights, turn signals, courtesy lights, etc.)
I've only driven it once since I got it back from the builder, and it's sat since, mainly because it wouldn't pass inspection and wasn't legal to drive. But now it won't even start. Battery is good (took it out and had it tested), alternator is almost new. When the key turns to the ON position, my electric fans start, gauge lights turn on, everything seems right, but when the key is in RUN, immediately power is cut to everything. No gauge lights, fans, nothing. And it remains that way until I disconnect, then reconnect the battery. Then everything works in ON, but goes dead again in RUN. I unplugged the +batt wire on my Accel coil and plugged back in, thinking it was a bad connection. Then the starter clicks and engine sounds like its turning over, but won't fire. So I'm thinking it's got to be coil related? Or maybe a ground? Or???
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've driven this car once in the past 6 or 7 years, and would love to be able to finish the restoration, get it inspected, and drive.
I've only driven it once since I got it back from the builder, and it's sat since, mainly because it wouldn't pass inspection and wasn't legal to drive. But now it won't even start. Battery is good (took it out and had it tested), alternator is almost new. When the key turns to the ON position, my electric fans start, gauge lights turn on, everything seems right, but when the key is in RUN, immediately power is cut to everything. No gauge lights, fans, nothing. And it remains that way until I disconnect, then reconnect the battery. Then everything works in ON, but goes dead again in RUN. I unplugged the +batt wire on my Accel coil and plugged back in, thinking it was a bad connection. Then the starter clicks and engine sounds like its turning over, but won't fire. So I'm thinking it's got to be coil related? Or maybe a ground? Or???
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've driven this car once in the past 6 or 7 years, and would love to be able to finish the restoration, get it inspected, and drive.
#2
Safety Car
What do you mean, "the engine sounds like it's turning over."?? If the engine is cranking but no start, check for spark, if no spark, could very well be the coil.
Also check condition of distributor cap and rotor and wires.
Also check condition of distributor cap and rotor and wires.
Last edited by Doug1; 01-20-2019 at 09:22 AM.
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
Sorry, my post was unclear. Yes, it was cranking, but no start. I'm sure there is no spark, but I believe it's due to an intermittent short somewhere, because as I wrote, all power was lost when turning key to RUN position. Then after removing and reinserting the +batt connector into the Accel, power was restored. Now, I can't recreate the no power condition, but it just cranks with no start. Does this sound like a fusible link issue? Coil, cap, rotor, wires are all new.
#4
Long story short, my 80 was sitting for years, had a built 406 put in, then sat again for about a year. I finally got around to re-restoring it (I restored it initially around 2003 or so.) Most everything is sorted out now, except for electrical. My engine builder left a bunch of wires dangling throughout the car and many of the electrical components don't work (pdl, pw, defroster, radio, headlights, turn signals, courtesy lights, etc.)
I've only driven it once since I got it back from the builder, and it's sat since, mainly because it wouldn't pass inspection and wasn't legal to drive. But now it won't even start. Battery is good (took it out and had it tested), alternator is almost new. When the key turns to the ON position, my electric fans start, gauge lights turn on, everything seems right, but when the key is in RUN, immediately power is cut to everything. No gauge lights, fans, nothing. And it remains that way until I disconnect, then reconnect the battery. Then everything works in ON, but goes dead again in RUN. I unplugged the +batt wire on my Accel coil and plugged back in, thinking it was a bad connection. Then the starter clicks and engine sounds like its turning over, but won't fire. So I'm thinking it's got to be coil related? Or maybe a ground? Or???
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've driven this car once in the past 6 or 7 years, and would love to be able to finish the restoration, get it inspected, and drive.
I've only driven it once since I got it back from the builder, and it's sat since, mainly because it wouldn't pass inspection and wasn't legal to drive. But now it won't even start. Battery is good (took it out and had it tested), alternator is almost new. When the key turns to the ON position, my electric fans start, gauge lights turn on, everything seems right, but when the key is in RUN, immediately power is cut to everything. No gauge lights, fans, nothing. And it remains that way until I disconnect, then reconnect the battery. Then everything works in ON, but goes dead again in RUN. I unplugged the +batt wire on my Accel coil and plugged back in, thinking it was a bad connection. Then the starter clicks and engine sounds like its turning over, but won't fire. So I'm thinking it's got to be coil related? Or maybe a ground? Or???
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've driven this car once in the past 6 or 7 years, and would love to be able to finish the restoration, get it inspected, and drive.
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
I pulled the alarm fuse, but no change. Any idea if it's possible to test the ignition switch without pulling the wheel and dropping the column?
#6
I needed a cheap car years ago. My boss said if I started their Lincoln I could have it. Same symptoms. $25 for a switch, and I brought home a Lincoln Mark VII.
BTW, GM still has it at the dealer.
Last edited by Big2Bird; 01-20-2019 at 01:25 PM.
#7
And if memory serves me right, the switch has slots to adjust it. That may be the issue.
#8
Safety Car
I don't know. On a 40 year old car, I would just drop it and change it anyhow. Test it while it's down. Turn signals too.
I needed a cheap car years ago. My boss said if I started their Lincoln I could have it. Same symptoms. $25 for a switch, and I brought home a Lincoln Mark VII.
BTW, GM still has it at the dealer.
I needed a cheap car years ago. My boss said if I started their Lincoln I could have it. Same symptoms. $25 for a switch, and I brought home a Lincoln Mark VII.
BTW, GM still has it at the dealer.
Great story about the Lincoln!
#9
Safety Car
Long story short, my 80 was sitting for years, had a built 406 put in, then sat again for about a year. I finally got around to re-restoring it (I restored it initially around 2003 or so.) Most everything is sorted out now, except for electrical. My engine builder left a bunch of wires dangling throughout the car and many of the electrical components don't work (pdl, pw, defroster, radio, headlights, turn signals, courtesy lights, etc.)
I've only driven it once since I got it back from the builder, and it's sat since, mainly because it wouldn't pass inspection and wasn't legal to drive. But now it won't even start. Battery is good (took it out and had it tested), alternator is almost new. When the key turns to the ON position, my electric fans start, gauge lights turn on, everything seems right, but when the key is in RUN, immediately power is cut to everything. No gauge lights, fans, nothing. And it remains that way until I disconnect, then reconnect the battery. Then everything works in ON, but goes dead again in RUN. I unplugged the +batt wire on my Accel coil and plugged back in, thinking it was a bad connection. Then the starter clicks and engine sounds like its turning over, but won't fire. So I'm thinking it's got to be coil related? Or maybe a ground? Or???
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've driven this car once in the past 6 or 7 years, and would love to be able to finish the restoration, get it inspected, and drive.
I've only driven it once since I got it back from the builder, and it's sat since, mainly because it wouldn't pass inspection and wasn't legal to drive. But now it won't even start. Battery is good (took it out and had it tested), alternator is almost new. When the key turns to the ON position, my electric fans start, gauge lights turn on, everything seems right, but when the key is in RUN, immediately power is cut to everything. No gauge lights, fans, nothing. And it remains that way until I disconnect, then reconnect the battery. Then everything works in ON, but goes dead again in RUN. I unplugged the +batt wire on my Accel coil and plugged back in, thinking it was a bad connection. Then the starter clicks and engine sounds like its turning over, but won't fire. So I'm thinking it's got to be coil related? Or maybe a ground? Or???
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've driven this car once in the past 6 or 7 years, and would love to be able to finish the restoration, get it inspected, and drive.
#10
An easy way to test for spark by yourself is to hook up a timing light, squeeze the trigger (or button) and tape it in the activated position. Set the light somewhere you can see it from the drivers seat and crank the motor. Light will flash everytime the spark plug fires.
Keep in mind how slow the motor is turning over when cranking with the starter. Meaning, you won't see a bunch of flashing like when timing a running motor.
To test coil hook timing light to coil wire between coil and distributor cap if it's not a cap mount. If coil is a cap mount, do a quick Google search on testing HEI coil. Very easy if you have a multimeter I just don't remember all the details off hand.
Make sure you keep timing light leads safely away from moving parts.
You can test everything on the distributor at home with a multi meter except the module. It's pretty easy other than you do have to remove it. May be able to do in can and crank the engine to spin the shaft, I've never tried. Anyway, auto parts store can test module but have them do it several times as sometimes a bad one will pass when cold. Failed modules are not uncommon.
Keep in mind how slow the motor is turning over when cranking with the starter. Meaning, you won't see a bunch of flashing like when timing a running motor.
To test coil hook timing light to coil wire between coil and distributor cap if it's not a cap mount. If coil is a cap mount, do a quick Google search on testing HEI coil. Very easy if you have a multimeter I just don't remember all the details off hand.
Make sure you keep timing light leads safely away from moving parts.
You can test everything on the distributor at home with a multi meter except the module. It's pretty easy other than you do have to remove it. May be able to do in can and crank the engine to spin the shaft, I've never tried. Anyway, auto parts store can test module but have them do it several times as sometimes a bad one will pass when cold. Failed modules are not uncommon.
#11
Race Director
Thread Starter
An easy way to test for spark by yourself is to hook up a timing light, squeeze the trigger (or button) and tape it in the activated position. Set the light somewhere you can see it from the drivers seat and crank the motor. Light will flash everytime the spark plug fires.
Keep in mind how slow the motor is turning over when cranking with the starter. Meaning, you won't see a bunch of flashing like when timing a running motor.
To test coil hook timing light to coil wire between coil and distributor cap if it's not a cap mount. If coil is a cap mount, do a quick Google search on testing HEI coil. Very easy if you have a multimeter I just don't remember all the details off hand.
Make sure you keep timing light leads safely away from moving parts.
You can test everything on the distributor at home with a multi meter except the module. It's pretty easy other than you do have to remove it. May be able to do in can and crank the engine to spin the shaft, I've never tried. Anyway, auto parts store can test module but have them do it several times as sometimes a bad one will pass when cold. Failed modules are not uncommon.
Keep in mind how slow the motor is turning over when cranking with the starter. Meaning, you won't see a bunch of flashing like when timing a running motor.
To test coil hook timing light to coil wire between coil and distributor cap if it's not a cap mount. If coil is a cap mount, do a quick Google search on testing HEI coil. Very easy if you have a multimeter I just don't remember all the details off hand.
Make sure you keep timing light leads safely away from moving parts.
You can test everything on the distributor at home with a multi meter except the module. It's pretty easy other than you do have to remove it. May be able to do in can and crank the engine to spin the shaft, I've never tried. Anyway, auto parts store can test module but have them do it several times as sometimes a bad one will pass when cold. Failed modules are not uncommon.
Last edited by KWIL; 01-20-2019 at 04:08 PM.
#12
Safety Car
Long story short, my 80 was sitting for years, had a built 406 put in, then sat again for about a year. I finally got around to re-restoring it (I restored it initially around 2003 or so.) Most everything is sorted out now, except for electrical. My engine builder left a bunch of wires dangling throughout the car and many of the electrical components don't work (pdl, pw, defroster, radio, headlights, turn signals, courtesy lights, etc.)
I've only driven it once since I got it back from the builder, and it's sat since, mainly because it wouldn't pass inspection and wasn't legal to drive. But now it won't even start. Battery is good (took it out and had it tested), alternator is almost new. When the key turns to the ON position, my electric fans start, gauge lights turn on, everything seems right, but when the key is in RUN, immediately power is cut to everything. No gauge lights, fans, nothing. And it remains that way until I disconnect, then reconnect the battery. Then everything works in ON, but goes dead again in RUN. I unplugged the +batt wire on my Accel coil and plugged back in, thinking it was a bad connection. Then the starter clicks and engine sounds like its turning over, but won't fire. So I'm thinking it's got to be coil related? Or maybe a ground? Or???
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've driven this car once in the past 6 or 7 years, and would love to be able to finish the restoration, get it inspected, and drive.
I've only driven it once since I got it back from the builder, and it's sat since, mainly because it wouldn't pass inspection and wasn't legal to drive. But now it won't even start. Battery is good (took it out and had it tested), alternator is almost new. When the key turns to the ON position, my electric fans start, gauge lights turn on, everything seems right, but when the key is in RUN, immediately power is cut to everything. No gauge lights, fans, nothing. And it remains that way until I disconnect, then reconnect the battery. Then everything works in ON, but goes dead again in RUN. I unplugged the +batt wire on my Accel coil and plugged back in, thinking it was a bad connection. Then the starter clicks and engine sounds like its turning over, but won't fire. So I'm thinking it's got to be coil related? Or maybe a ground? Or???
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've driven this car once in the past 6 or 7 years, and would love to be able to finish the restoration, get it inspected, and drive.
Are you absolutely positive that there is no spark when you crank it? If you don't want to the the timing light thing, pull a boot off and stick a screwdriver in it. Then place screwdriver near the block, small gap between the two, have someone crank engine.
#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
Anyone know if the + wire to the coil comes directly from the ignition switch? If so, I guess it makes sense that pulling and reinserting the wire into the coil allowed the car to crank but not start. Maybe a loose connection at the switch? Not sure how the switch could cause loss of all power in the Run position until the battery is disconnected then reconnected though. Unless the switch goes directly to the starter also. Then it all makes sense and it must be the ignition switch.
Just thinking out loud trying to make sense of it.
Just thinking out loud trying to make sense of it.
#14
Race Director
Thread Starter
So it was fine the last time you drove it, how do you know this isn't a gas/carb issue? How long did it sit?
Are you absolutely positive that there is no spark when you crank it? If you don't want to the the timing light thing, pull a boot off and stick a screwdriver in it. Then place screwdriver near the block, small gap between the two, have someone crank engine.
Are you absolutely positive that there is no spark when you crank it? If you don't want to the the timing light thing, pull a boot off and stick a screwdriver in it. Then place screwdriver near the block, small gap between the two, have someone crank engine.
I think it's spark, but haven't tested yet. I don't own a timing light. I'll try the old screwdriver trick.
With the symptoms though it has to be an electrical issue, right?
Last edited by KWIL; 01-20-2019 at 05:43 PM.
#15
Melting Slicks
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I know it simple but have you checked your battery connections? Could it be when there is enough draw a poor or loose connection comes into effect? Way out of my league but isn't there a way to bypass the switch and jump the starter remotely?
I had cars with both of these situations in the past. Ike
I had cars with both of these situations in the past. Ike
#16
Safety Car
I know it simple but have you checked your battery connections? Could it be when there is enough draw a poor or loose connection comes into effect? Way out of my league but isn't there a way to bypass the switch and jump the starter remotely?
I had cars with both of these situations in the past. Ike
I had cars with both of these situations in the past. Ike
The answer to your question is yes btw. lol
Last edited by Doug1; 01-20-2019 at 06:21 PM.
#17
Safety Car
Been about a year since actually driven any distance. I started it a few times since and backed it into the driveway to bring it up to temperature and to make sure there were no flat spots on the tires. Also used Stabil in the fuel tank. It has fresh 93 octane and the carb is getting fuel.
I think it's spark, but haven't tested yet. I don't own a timing light. I'll try the old screwdriver trick.
With the symptoms though it has to be an electrical issue, right?
I think it's spark, but haven't tested yet. I don't own a timing light. I'll try the old screwdriver trick.
With the symptoms though it has to be an electrical issue, right?
#18
Safety Car
Anyone know if the + wire to the coil comes directly from the ignition switch? If so, I guess it makes sense that pulling and reinserting the wire into the coil allowed the car to crank but not start. Maybe a loose connection at the switch? Not sure how the switch could cause loss of all power in the Run position until the battery is disconnected then reconnected though. Unless the switch goes directly to the starter also. Then it all makes sense and it must be the ignition switch.
Just thinking out loud trying to make sense of it.
Just thinking out loud trying to make sense of it.
#19
Race Director
Thread Starter
I hope to avoid pulling the wheel and dropping the column unless absolutely necessary. I've done it before many years ago and it wasn't fun.
Last edited by KWIL; 01-20-2019 at 10:24 PM.
#20
Safety Car
I hope you have a battery charger for all this stuff, lol. I still want to know what happened with the spark test. Just to be sure before tearing the column apart. It's a 3 minute long test with someone else cranking, if no one else is around try and rig it so you see that small gap while you crank the engine.
But also, here you go again with the wording. I took your term on RUN for the key position as the spot where the key comes back after letting off of it to start....? But then you say no start in RUN. See why it's confusing?
But also, here you go again with the wording. I took your term on RUN for the key position as the spot where the key comes back after letting off of it to start....? But then you say no start in RUN. See why it's confusing?
Last edited by Doug1; 01-20-2019 at 10:01 PM.